I presume you mean on a Q-series grill. DIsconnect the hose or can. remove the burner tube by removing the hex bolt holding it down to the bos next to the igniter and lifting that end and sliding the mixer tube out and away from the regulator. Then pull the gas nob off. It takes a little force, but can be done. That exposes a brass nut that holds the regulator to the mounting plate. It has normal right-hand threads, so back it right off. Then, you can take the regulator/valve assembly right out the back of the mounting plate. The regulator and valve are connected with normal right-hand threads and come right apart. Use teflon tape when reassembling, and that brass nut goes cylinder-side (it's not a plain hex).
The above solution over complicates the problem. Where the regulator goes into the gas tube, see if there is a retaining clip - a simple U shaped wire with curls at each end. Pop it off with a screwdriver or needle-nose pliers if trying to remove it - if the clip is missing you can easily bend one of the larger types of paper clips open straight, then make a U shaped clip of your own out of a 3 inch piece of the paper clip, bend it by using the gas tube as your bending device so it's the correct size, then curl the ends of the U shaped paper clip piece inward just a little bit, and with the regulator in place, you will see a channel/groove in the end of the regulator where it goes into the tube at the very end of the regulator. push the new paper clip U shaped device over the gas tube that the ends slip into the openings in the end of the gas tube as it exits the bbq, and you now have a new retaining clip that will hold the regulator in place but allow it to freely spin around wherever you want the propane take to lie except up where the "go anywhere bbq" handles are. I just totally restored one and made my own parts. My ignitor wire was broken just outside of the bbq but there was enough "stub" coming out of the porcelain like insulator. I bent them so that they were touching well, then soldered them together, then took a 3 inch piece of easily bendable copper wire and wrapped around this weak joint a few times, then twisted it so that it would firmly stay in place, then soldered this new copper wire over my previously soldered "patch" of the two parts of the ignitor wire. You can easily pull the ignitor wire where it enters the bbq with pliers in or out or completely remove it like I did and I inserted a straighted large/thicker stype paper clips into the insulator hole, bent the inside portion at a 45 degree angle until it was 1/2" from the gas tube so I get a great spark, then soldered the other end to the stub I had coming out of the actual spark making part. I covered all soldered connections with liquid black electrical tape painted on (it's like liquid tar) - now my ignitor is just as strong as a new one but didn't cost anything but the cost of the liquid solder available at any Radio Shack. This da*n website won't let me upload pictures to show you - the FixYa website needs fixing itself cuz the programmer must be a ***** or else I could show you detailed close up pix of the area.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
if it is a power window, first look in your manual and find the fuses that control the window. if the fuses are good, then you will need to replace the window regulator, inside the door, it will require removing the door panel , you will also need to try to keep the window closed while removing the old regulator, go to www.rockauto.com and look up your cars information to find the replacement ,I found this site has the cheapest prices and best quality .
What you will need is a replacement Window Regulator. You should be able to find one online for around $50.00. Make sure you Order the correct one. Drivers Side Front..... Passenger Side Rear... Each would be different. Removing the inner door panel. Check for videos on Youtube for your model and year to watch step by step instructions. On a scale of 1 to 5 this would be 3 to replace. Removing the regulator and getting the new one into place can be tricky. Just take your time and pay attention to how you remove the old one and what bolts and screws go where.
Not much to your question, or what you need to know You have to figure out how to remove the inner door panel Then figure out how to remove the window regulator,if you find it broken Then if the motor or regulator needs to be replaced-- after testing the motor,you have to remove the motor, in some cases & put on the new regulator, or just install a new motor to old regulator This is if those two items are the problem,could be a bad switch
You will need a torx bit, either a t35 or a t40 I believe. You will also need a 1" or a 1 1/16"
The pressure regulator can be removed without removing the throttle body but you would need to have some experience replacing them to figure it out.
First remove the throttle body from the intake plenum. Using the 1 inch wrench loosen the nut that holds the fuel line to the lower part of the fuel pressure emulator. Use the torx bit to remove the bolt that holds the regulator to the fuel rail. Place a rag around the regulator to catch and fuel that may spray and pull the reegulator out of the fuel rail then pull up on the regulator to remove to from the fuel line.
If you have a 3.8 Liter than all you will need is a snap ring plier. Remove the plastic cover from the top of the engine, remove the snap ring that holds the regulator in place. Pull out the regulator. Be prepared for fuel to spray or spill. Make sure all the parts come out with the old regulator. Compare the old and new one to make sure they look identical. The screen and small oreng like to stick in the fuel rail.
Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them. Thank you for using FixYa.com!
Fig. 2: ... then remove the regulator by using a twisting and pulling motion
If equipped with a bolt on-type pressure regulator, disconnect the fuel return tube assembly from the pressure regulator.
all openings with masking tape to prevent dirt entry. If the regulator
is being reused, inspect the filter screen, if equipped, for
contamination. If contamination exists, replace the filter screen
glass fell down in door bolt to equalizer arm to regulator fell out of place missing or window regulator broken.you have to remove door trim panel. you need a haynes repair manual to show you how to remove door trim panel. and door panel screws location to door handle.you need see screws location to remove power windows and door lock control.you will need door panel trim removal tool.
If you can hear the motor (regulator) running and the window is not moving up or down then it sounds like you need to replace the regulator, there is a plastic piece on the regulatore which holds the window on track, when this breaks the window will not stay in track thus not going up or down. Unfortunately you have to replace the entire regualtor for plastic piece, about $100 at Oreily's or Autozone. You have to remove the door panel, disconnect the power to regulator and retaining pins or screws, pull the regulator through the large hole in the door frame, replace with new regulator in reverse order. Careful, secure window with duct tape in the up position before removing the old regulator (manually push the window up with your hands first)
It is getting increasingly more difficult to obtain replacement parts for older compressors. If your regulator failed at a fairly high pressure adjustment, say around 100-120 lbs, you could just leave the old regulator in place and add a regulator when needed to one of the quick connects. Purchase a generic pressure regulator from Lowes and add quick fittings to easily connect the regulator or remove when not needed. You could also just remove the old regulator and work-in a new generic regulator in its place. Generic regulators sell for $20 - $40. Good luck with your repair.
Your power window regulator is broken, you need to replace it by removing the door panel, loosen and remove the bolts to the window glass, removing the power window motor, and than removing the regulator.