I have a FD-95 and am working with SP 3200 strobes with light boxes and umbrellas with 100W modeling bulbs. If I want to use a small F-stop like F-11 with out any exrtra flood lights there is not enough light to see the subject in the view finder. The 3200 stobes at the lowest put out too much light to work at auto setting or the lower F-stops. Is there a way to set a small F-stop and have good light in the view finder like at F-2.8 ?, with out adding floods or moving the strobes further back than 10 feet ? Changing the shutter speed does not help as it has the same effect in the view finder. The rear lcd screen can be brightened a bit but not the view finder. Any suggestions besides a more expensive digital camera ? (D-1, Minolta 3000CR etc...) Thanks for any help in advance. Well its off to the Studio to Play with my toys.
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Re: FD-95, F-stops & Strobes?
You might try adding an external view finder that is close to the FD-95 picture size.
A lot of old cameras have them and it could also be used for sports as well, it could
be added with Velcro or some other type of mounting. I am working on this problem myself. Good luck
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How fast are you popping off shots? Be sure you're allowing time for your strobes to recharge after each photo. Also, depending on your lense, there is a switch for X and M sync, X is for electronic flash, M for old flash bulbs - if you've managed to slip it off of X to M you'll get no use of the strobes. It's also possible that your sync cord has came unplugged or loose from the PC socket or the strobe/power pack itself, or that the cord is simply bad (it happens frequently) - try a new cord. But, be sure you're allowing 2-3 seconds at minimum for your strobes to recharge unless you're somewhere you're sure they're setup and able to cycle faster.
There is nothing electronic in this model to go wrong, including the lense, so whatever is wrong is either in a user setting, or in equipment from the cord on.
Your camera uses a PTTL flash system. That means the flash on the camera fires a "pre-flash" to set the exposure and then the main flash. Your flash trigger strobes are reacting to the pre-flash and firing before the shutter activates. This all happens in a millisecond.
There is nothing wrong with your turntables. The Strobe dots are only a guide to give you an idea of the speed your platter is rotating. Nothing more, nothing less. The pitch control decal is not 100% accurate, it is simply a guide to tell you where the 6% position lies, 3.3%, etc.
As long as the quartz lock function works, and the large middle strobes are nice and solid, and do not move, your fine.
You can check out these videos for more insight into these wonderful turntables:
If you problem is that the double flash triggers the strobes early (on the first flash and the shot is made on the second flash - dark) you either: 1. Get a wire accessory to command the strobes 2. Put a simple external flash on top of the camera and use it to trigger strobes. If you don't need the light from this flash just point it up of backwards, it will still trigger the strobes. If it does not rotate, you can use tin foil. A very simple external flash will do, as the camera will flash only once with external flash.
1) Being connected to your studio lights is interfearing with the camera's electronics, disturbing its ability to focus. Does it focus if you're not actually connected to the studio strobes, but are trying to focus using just the modelling lights?
2) There may simply not be enough light for the camera to focus. Canon sells a red LED AF illuminator that sits in the hotshoe (can't remember the part number). That may help. Also, if your modelling lights are set to "tracking" or "proportional", try setting them to fixed full power. You've probably got the strobes set several stops lower than full power, so "tracking" modelling lights rob you of several stops of focusin light. Or try a faster lens.
You cannot use the E-10/20N in Program Mode with studio strobes. Studio strobes are not compatible with TTL (Through The Lens) metering. You will need to set the Mode Dial to Manual Mode. Exposure is determined by flash output , ISO and the distance from flash to subject. Proper exposure can be determined with a flash meter.