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Re: Pictures are green and pink
Looks like the CCD (image recording chip) has quit working. There is a lot of information regarding this phenomenon available at this link http://www.imaging-resource.com/badccds.html . The problem was widespread and affected almost all camera manufacturers. It does appear that most affected cameras are in the 3-5 year old range. The problem seems to have been rectified within the industry.
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Perhaps you did select a SCN mode, with the main dial. Or chose a wrong white balance setting. Please switch the camera to the green loge on the main dial (auto mode) and check if that gives a better result. Start experimenting with other settings when you have a little more experience with the camera. Auto will give perfect pictures in 99% of all shots.
there are advanced color correction modes,
Blue or dark pictures/videos
Keep your shooting distance inside of 2ft to 3ft, depending on
visibility and ambient light.
If you are using only one light, considering adding another light
(dual lights) or/and external flash accessory. The ideal
set-up is a combination of a light plus flash.
Consider purchasing the SeaLife Wide Angle Lens (SL975). The
fisheye lens allows you to get closer to the subject and fit more
into to picture frame.
For SeaLife camera with external light accessory (No external flash):
1) Set the camera's scene mode to Sea mode or Snorkel mode
2) Change camera's PHOTO and VIDEO White Balance
settings to DAYLIGHT.
For SeaLife camera with external light and flash accessories:
1) Set the scene mode to Ext. Flash mode
2) Change the VIDEO White Balance setting to DAYLIGHT.
For other underwater camera brands:
1) Set the Scene mode to "Auto" or "Underwater" scene
mode, as recommended by the camera manufacturer.
2) You may also need to change the White Balance setting to
DAYLIGHT depending on the camera's underwater color
correction or if pictures/video turns out red.
Instead of shutter priority "Tv" mode, try setting to program "P" mode instead. Also, turn off the flash, and set to macro if shooting close-in (press downward on the little flower icon on the back disk). If pictures come out blurry, try using a tripod to hold the camera steady, or set the camera down on an object so it doesn't move while taking the shot. Try using the timer to activate the shutter to allow the camera to remain even steadier for the shot.
You have to go to Menu and set up the Scene Mode as "Night Portrait" instead of "Default". Unfortunately you will have to do this every time you turn the camera off since it does not remember the change
Most probably you have incorrectly set your camera to a Camera Record mode other than Auto.
If there is not enough light and you are trying to photograph the scene without flash, (eg. by setting your camera mode to a mode that is programmed not to use flash) then the camera has to compensate for the missing light by keeping its shutter open for a longer period of time so as enough light comes into its sensor.
If your hand shakes during that time, you get blurry images.
Check your camera settings. The Twilight scene mode gives you slower shutter speeds to capture dark,
night scenes, but you need to stabilize the camera on a tripod or something, depending on the level of light of the scene you want to photograph. The Twilight Portrait, on the other hand, is the same as Twilight with the addition of
flash is used to illuminate a person or foreground subject as well as capturing a night
background. This mode also keeps a long shutter time for capturing the night background.
For taking pictures of people, I would suggest you use Auto or Portrait mode where the camera will automatically use fast shutter speeds and flash (if dark).
Depending on the tv that you have and how the image is translated on the screen can cause problems some times tring diffrent settings on you camera can make the image look better. Try setting the camera in indoor or firework mode. it helps on my TV.
I had the same problem with the Canon PowerShot S410. I called Canon and they said it was a known issue. They are going to send me a return, paid postage label and replace the sensor at no cost. Canon rocks!
learning to use light metering correctly can have its challenge. the manual will guide you on how to set up to read light from the subject. spot metering a dark area will cause general overexposure, or a washed out look. spot metering a bright area will cause a dark image. if you are on spot meter and shoot two people standing together against a bright lit background, your meter will see between them if they are centered, and read all that bright background, setting the camera to a less sensitive combination of aperture / shutter speed, resulting in a dark image. use field averaging meter setting and be sure you are metering the subject and not the background. try shooting a wall that is fairly clear of other colors and uniform it light hitting it, you should have a correctly exposed image. since it works in other modes (at least 1, anyway) then it is unlikely you have an exposure compensation issue. that is the only other non defect issue that would cause your problem. once you confirm that you have these settings correct and still get a dark image, its time to have it serviced. good luck mark