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When shooting into the sun your subject tend to ubder exposed. Shade the lens so that the sun does not fall on the lens (get someone to shade the camera with a hat), turn on the flash gun use it as a fill in flash.
Keep the camera switched off and the battery removed for over 6 hours . Now test the camera after such time and if the pictures taken are coloured then it is possible that the CCD- the vision sensor- is weak and often this is due to expose to bright light- sunlight. Take consensus to confirm and estimate.
Red eye is cause by the internal flash being mounted to close to the lens center axes and is a common problem with most all cameras built this way. Many manufactures have attempted to use "red eye" reduction which fires a pre-flash to close the subjects retina before the actual flash for exposure. Does it work in my opinion no it just cause the subject to think "Oh there's the flash the picture has been taken" and they move while the actual pictures is being made. Yet others tried to send a high intensity light in the subjects direction and that wasn't much better. To get around the red eye with a point and shoot camera you need to get the flash away from the camera. It's called "Off Camera" for your camera it would require an optional digital flash that will sync with the camera flash shutter speed mounted to a bracket that holds the flash above the camera at least 4 inches. However in the case of a pocket camera such as what you have, there now comes the problem of how to trigger the optional off camera flash. This can be done but requires a little non intrusive hacking and a piece of aluminum foil. All this extra gear has now pretty much destroyed the concept of a pocket point and shooter but you asked how to eliminate it as well. The U bracket and flash can be obtained through camera accessory manufactures another item you will need is a photo cell slave mounted on the flash which is mounted to the U bracket. T tripper the flash a small piece of reflective foil is taped in front of the flash angling the reflected light towards the photo cell slave. The slave "sees" the flash from the camera and triggers the optional flash. There are no wires involved so in fact this second flash could be mounted on a tripod to the side of the subject just as long as the camera flash is directed toward it. Once you get one optional flash to fire it is possible to connect multiple flash units using slave cells and create a studio lighting effect. You have now taken a point and shoot camera and turned it into a studio camera cool huh? Okay to address your second problem I feel as if I have to tell you what is happening before i explain what to do. Due to the mass amount of snow and possible overcast conditions you camera built in light meter "sees" this as a lot of light and closed down the aperture and or increases shutter speed, which in fact will under expose the scene. To work around this problem you need to switch you camera off any type of auto exposure zone and go to a manual setting. Look at the cameras light meter reading and purposely over expose it in most cases by two stops of light. I know this most likely all appears to complicated BUT, it's not beyond the capacity of your camera.
So, the problem doesn't seem to be the flash if the actual subject in
the foreground is exposed properly. My guess is that the background is
being lit by another light source. Typically, your camera uses a flash
for dark areas or what it gauges as a dark area. This doesn't adjust
the background for additional light sources. For example, if you're
standing outside and there's a tree covering someone that you're taking
a picture of your flash will adjust to "properly" light that
individual. However, because the flash was used for the main subject,
the background is actually now overexposed. The overexposed background
will show up as a brightly lit area because the camera had to adjust
for the foreground. This will actually reverse itself when it's dark
out - meaning if the background and foreground are dark, the flash will
expose the foreground, but the background will be black. Hopefully,
that helps you understand lighting and exposure. Now, to fix this
problem when shooting, you would need to consider several options - 1.
SLR camera with aperture and f-stop settings as well as compensation
controls. This will allow you to control every element of the exposure, but you still need to be aware of the lighting behind the "subject" to properly expose your shots. 2. backlighting compensation - common settings on both SLR and point and shoot cameras that makes auto lighting conversions for backlighting and other common lighting issues. Test whatever options are on your camera to see what works best for your specific problem. 3. Photoshop retouching - you may take one shot with your subject exposed properly and a second shot with the background then merge the images together. 4. using
a tripod to shoot without using the flash - this may give you the closest exposure to exactly what you see when looking at your subject.
The problem lies in you camera's CCD unit which is located on the back of the lens held on be 3 small screws it could also be a setting in the camera's menu try going into the menu and reseting the camera to default it works some times if that does not work than you need the ccd replaced pretty easy fix I fixed 1 with the same problem about two weeks ago for someone it happens I hope this helps you out.
It is something that seems to be a problem with the Stylus 410s. Olympus will not repair them unless they are under warrenty, I've tried. My best advice, and what I am in the midst of myself (I have 2 of these with the same problem) is to file with the BBB. Perhaps if enough complaints come through, they will begin to fix the stylus 410 defect as they should. Good luck. =)