Question about Yamaha YST-MSW10 Computer Speakers

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Y cable configuration

It's the latter, metal, band, metal, band and then metal on ONE of the Y leads. The 1/8" connector for the back of the PC is all metal with no banding.

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Ok single band is mono... double band is stereo... if you have headphones that are mono try them on the pc... then stereo are next. let me know which one works


Posted on Aug 30, 2008


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Grundig Satellit 800 external antenna configurations

It looks like you have a real scientific project. It sounds fascinating and it seems to go well beyond the mere enjoyment of a simple Short Wave Radio. My suggestion: Put your hypotheses/questions to the test and you will form an informed opinion.

Apr 08, 2013 | Grundig Satellit 800 AM/FM/SW Radio

1 Answer

High static level

Hi Gary,

It sounds like something may have loosened up. Given that this is installed in a truck it is probably subject to quite a bit of vibration. This could have broken a connection, etc. If this just started, consider what happened just before you noticed the change. Maybe the truck was serviced just before - consult with the mechanic to learn what he or she may have done to contribute to the problem. Maybe the antenna smacked a low hanging tree limb?

You could disconnect the antenna from the radio, and spin a metal protective cover over it to prevent signals from entering. If the static sounds are reduced, the interference is probably coming from the antenna system. If it remains, it is probably coming in on the power leads. With the ignition OFF, check for noise. If reduced or eliminated, it is related to the engine / electric fuel pump (if equipped), etc.

Check the PL-259 connector at the end of the coax cable. If the braid or center connection has failed, it should be repaired be removing the connector and preparing the cable to receive a new connector again.

Make sure the ground wires and braids are firmly connected at the radio connector end and at the antenna. Rust is a poor conductor and if present will interfere with transmit and receive. Clean it up, make your connections up tightly and then seal to prevent water from entering.

Check antennas for damage. Many antennas on trucks are fiberglass because they're tough. The wire wrapped around it however is soft copper. If the antenna has smacked tree limbs, overpasses, etc. they could have been damaged. The physical shock is transmitted down to the mount point - causing it to loosen up, etc. Repair and replace suspected damaged or loose parts. Make sure the rubberized weatherproof tip on Firestik type antennas are secure and in place.

Check the coax. Make sure the outer jacket is continuous and has not been compromised by being crushed between pinch points, chafed, etc. The jacket must not have splits or cracks that would allow water or oil in. Replace any damaged coax cable with identical type and lengths - this is especially important in a co-phased antenna arrangement as I understand is your current configuration.

A high SWR can also cause problems. Most manuals say 2.0:1 (two point zero to one)is maximum acceptable SWR or "match". I could go along with that provided that value is present of infrequently used channels - like 1 and 40. The channels used most often should have a very low SWR. 1.1:1 (one point one to one) to as much as 1.5:1 (one point five to one) is where I would expect to be on channel 20 (the mid point of the band). There will only be one place that the is the low point in the band. Transmitting further up or down the band from 20 will cause the SWR to increase. Eventually, you will exceed 2.0:1 and too much power will be reflected back into the radio - potentially causing a failure of the RF output final transistors. This is only increased if running a linear amplifier. Transmitting at a lower power make dealing with a higher SWR much easier than sending high power to a mismatched antenna system. Your set up may have a nice, wideband of acceptable match - 1.5:1 on ch1 and ch40 with 1.1:1 on ch20; or be very narrow banded like 3.0 (or more) :1 on ch1 and ch40 and 1.5:1 on ch20. It could even be "way out there" with 4.0:1 on ch1 and ch40 and 2.5:1 on ch20. if you've got a bad match happening, correct it ASAP!

Check you power source. The best place to grab power is directly from the battery. Yours may be there already, and even so, it may also have noise reduction components such as a choke input filter and or capacitor on the power leads. Look for these and other components inline and inspect for damage or contamination by oil, fuel, etc. Replace as needed. Check the power leads for any connected accessory, too.

That's about all I can think of.. good luck!

Jan 29, 2012 | Cobra Radio Communications

2 Answers

No power when connecting atx12V on main

did you plug in the 24 pin main of the power supply in some also take a 4 pin as well on board jim

Jul 17, 2011 | ASUS P5VDC-X Motherboard

1 Answer

Need to replace a headlight

Your car is equipped with headlight unitsthat house the headlight bulbs, which illuminate the road during dark drivinghours or bad weather conditions. You just need screwdriver and replacementheadlight to do this job. This is how to do it First you Open the hood of the Elantra and locate the damagedheadlight unit. Look for a metal band that secures the unit in place. Removethe screws surrounding the metal band using a flat-head screwdriver. The bandwill pop off as the screws are removed. Remove the band completely by slidingit off of the headlight unit. 2nd, Remove the headlight unit by pulling it out ofposition. Disconnect the electrical connector, located on the back of the unit. 3rd , Insert the replacement unit into place and attachthe electrical connector. Place the metal band around the unit and secure theband by replacing each screw. Use the flathead screwdriver to tighten eachscrew. Repeat this process for the opposite headlight unit, if necessary. Closethe hood of the Hyundai Elantra.

Jan 13, 2011 | 2004 Hyundai Elantra

2 Answers

Apple xserve g5 power supply got porblem. may need to replacement

this is the link to get a service manual in English.
It includes detailed instructions, like use static electricity wrist bands.
1. Shut down the computer. Remove the power cable. 2. Unscrew the two finger screws on the front panel, remove the computer from it's case by pulling forward, and place it on a solid surface. Be careful. It's heavy and hard to handle. DON'T DROP IT. 3. Unscrew the one finger screw holding the Power Supply in place. Lift the power supply out by the metal support near the 14 pin connector to the motherboard. There is a pin in the back panel of the computer, so the back end of the power supply rotates when the end closest to the front lifts. 4. The 14 pin connector is has a lot of friction. I have never gotten it to come up easily, as it is supposed to. I usually use something to GENTLY lift up the metal cover/bracket over the 14 pin connector on the front end. 5. If you are taking this out because you are replacing it, you should read what the manual says about checking the battery, resetting the PMU [AKA "zapping the PRAM"?], and checking for 12 volts of power from pin 1 to pin 8 on the 14 pin connector. 6. This isn't in the manual: To get at the 1 and 8 pins on the 14 pin connector, A. Removed the power supply, as described above. B. Removed the three screws that hold the metal cover/bracket over the 14 pin connector on the front end. C. Removed the cover/bracket to expose the tops of the 14 pins.

Apr 01, 2010 | Apple Xserve G5 Server

1 Answer

Cpu fan stop few second after starting pc

Hello,have you installed new motherboard or CPU?
Follow these steps again
1) Disconnect the power cord from the back of the computer & open up the case.

2) Wear an anti-static glove or at very least discharge your static by touching a metal surface or power supply

3) Disconnect the main 20pin ATX power connector from the motherboard & the square 4pin ATX2 power connector

4) Remove any PCI cards you have & disconnect ALL drive cabling from the MOTHERBOARD. Also disconnect any internal USB fly leads from the motherboard.

5) You should now have ONLY the cpu+heatsink/fan, memory & video card installed. Locate the round silver battery in the bottom right corner of the board. Just below it, you'll see a plastic jumper cap. This cap should be covering 2 pins (pins 1 + 2) with pin 3 bare. It will be marked JP1. Move the jumper to cover pins 2-3 instead. Leave in this position for about 30 seconds, then return the jumper to its original position (pins 1-2).

6) Reconnect the square 4pin ATX2 power connector & the main 20 pin ATX power connector. Make sure that the case speaker or buzzer is connected also.

7) Make sure the only external devices connected are the keyboard/mouse & monitor. Reconnect the power lead & power on the system

Let me know what happens

Feb 06, 2010 | ASUS M2N68-AM SE2 Motherboard

2 Answers

My dc7100 has a compact power supply with proprietary 24 pin plug. Pretty sure power supply is non-functional (shorted green to black and fan didn't come on). Is it possible to rewire a conventional ATX...

I just spotted this, hence the late solution. Perhaps this will help someone in the future.

Yes it is possible.

Observe the color code of the insulation of the wires.

1) Orange wires are 3.3 Volts

2) Red wires are 5 Volts

3) Yellow wires are 12 Volts

4) The Green wire is the Soft Power On wire

5) All Black wires are Ground wires. Doesn't matter which Black wire it is, it's a Ground wire.
(It isn't a Common wire. This is DC electricity, not AC)

These are your main voltages, and wires to be concerned with.

Fortunately all HP, (Or any proprietary computer manufacturer in that time period), did, was to change where the wires are placed in the 20, or 24-pin ATX main power cable connector.

They just moved the wires in the socket holes, didn't change the color code.

Solution is,
1) To remove the wires in the ATX power supply, main power cable connector
2) To remove the wires in the proprietary computer's ATX main power cable connector.

BE SURE to make a concise, clear, drawing FIRST, of where the colors of the wires went in the proprietary connector, BEFORE you remove them!)

3) To reinstall the wires into the proprietary connector.
(Again. Following the color code of the wires you removed)

Removing the wires out of the 20, or 24-pin ATX main power cable connector:

Observe these photos, of a 20-pin ATX main power cable's connector. This procedure can be applied to a 24-pin ATX main power cable connector also. (Or a 20 + 4-pin ATX main power cable connector)

(Also gives you information about the color code of the wires)

The middle photo shows you a view of the Front of the connector.
The photo to the right shows you the Back of the connector.

Where the wires go down into the connector is a Socket Hole.
At the end of each wire is a metal pin connector. A Male pin connector.

This metal pin connector is shaped like a tube on the end, and comes up to a square shape as you go up.
The square shape fits the square socket hole.

On one side of the square shape is a Tang. It's part of the square metal shape, and sticks out away from the square shape.
Resembles a barb on a fish hook.

In this crude illustration, let a small L represent the side of the square shape, and this forward slash - / represent the tang.


This is an illustration from a manufacturer that supplies this type of metal Male pin connector,

A needle with the proper thickness so it won't bend, is inserted into the Front side of the socket hole, and is used to depress the Tang.

If you look down into the back of the connector, and into an individual socket hole with a bright light, and a magnifying glass, you will observe that the square socket hole has a small notch in one side.
This is where the tang slides down into.

It isn't easy to see from the front side.

The tang is depressed using the needle from the FRONT of the ATX main power cable connector, and the wire is removed from the Back side of the connector.

The metal pin connector's tube shape only goes up so far, then it turns into a square shape.

The socket hole in the connector is shaped to match. Tube shaped hole at the front of the connector, square shape coming on up to the back of the connector.

The square shape's corners, of the metal pin connector, keep it from coming out of the Front of the ATX main power cable connector.

The tang keeps the metal pin connector from coming out of the Back.

More information about the color code of the wires in an ATX main power cable connector, (Scroll towards the bottom of the page)

Oct 16, 2009 | HP Compaq dc7100 PC Desktop

1 Answer

Y connector

ok the only issue i see causing the problem if stereo headphones work directly on the laptop is that you are running stereo to mono and maybe back again. it did occur to me as well... why are you using a Y plug.


Aug 30, 2008 | Yamaha YST-MSW10 Computer Speakers

1 Answer

Sound card in PC is operable

Look at the plug.... is it metal then a little band and then the tip or is it metal a band then metal and then the tip.

Aug 30, 2008 | Yamaha YST-MSW10 Computer Speakers

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