I have a bell gel seat to replace my old seat. Do I need an adaptor to connect the seat to the post because all there is is the spring asembly and no obvious way to connect seat to bike?

if you have seats take one old one out and try the replacement. It should be the exact seat old minus heating pad replacement has heating pad.

If you have ordered a standard Quinny Zapp seat fabric there are no adaptors required as it fits exactly the same way as your original seat fabric. If you have ordered a Quinny Zapp Xtra seat unit it should come complete with two metal recline adaptors to use it in your chassis. If it does not, speak with your retailer.

There are bolts underneath the seat (also called "guts") that you will need to loosen with a crescent wrench. You will want to loosen the two bolt on either side underneath the seat. You don't need to completely remove these bolts, just loosen them. Then the seat should just lift off of the seat post. Then just do the same thing to put the seat back on.

Low beams are almost easy to replace. Turn your handle bars all the way to one side. That will give you room to reach between the bars and the shelter. Use a flashlight to look for the 4" rubber gaskets that cover the bulb. Trust me, you'll see it. Remove the gasket, and then unclip the spring keeper that holds in the bulb (it is an H7), and the bulb with connector will come right out. Don't touch the new buld as the oils on our fingers shotren the life of the bubs. You will see the bulb plugs into a plastic spacer. Use some electric gel on the prongs to seat the new bulb. Then make sure the square knob on the spacer is in line with the knotch on the bulb seat. The spring keeper should catch when pushed straight in. I look into the headlight to make sure it's seated properly. Same for other side. If you are talking about the high beams, you need to remove the seat, instrument cover, and shleter. You will see the gaskets. THOSE are a pain.

below the spring

On most vintage bikes, the seat is supported by a "T-bar" that connects to the frame between the fuel tanks on the front end and is supported by the spring seat post in the rear. Most of the solo saddles were designed to bolt to the "T-bar". Simply remove the "buddy seat" and bolt on the solo.

Now there are some conversion kits made that eliminate the spring seat post and bolt the saddle directly to the frame. Others have coil springs in the rear. These are better if mounting a solo on a rigid frame machine.

Good Luck
steve

there is nothing like a gel seat. this is easy as long as your not in a hurry. start by removeing the seat cover a small flat head and needle nose will help. after you have it off there is one of two ways to get this done. first set your gel and trace the outlineon youseat foam. with a razor blade cut the seat down to the depth you need, now like a slowly start to pull the foam up and cut under it as you pull it up. i like to let the gel sit so it has about a mm above the foam. after you have the gel so it sits nicely in the pocket you cut out use car headliner to cover the top of the seat some 3m spray glue will keep it from moveing around. the head liner is so when you put the seat cover back on it will not show the lines where the gel is at. put your seat cover back on and start on the sides of the seat 1
#2 and #3 put a staples in 2 3
there start ontoward 4
the front of the seatpulling the cover tight as you staple it down. after you have the front down work the same way to the back.
Good luck
Mark
C.C. Motorsports

Sometimes it just takes two really strong people to remove these seats. Especially if it is that old. I`m not saying damage the chair,but i`ve had some that were almost impossible to remove.

No . The reason that you cannot is that they are amplified type speakers and the amplifier section appears, based upon what you stated, to be in the old monitor.                      Sorry.

I'm on my way to change a bellcrank on a t420, simple answer is, you need to cut the old one off.
Be carful not lose any springs though.