Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
CHECK THE BALANCE SPRING LOCATED (INSIDE LEFT REAR OF MACHINE). IF SPRING IS OFF IT CAN CAUSE THE TUB TO TILT TOWARD THE FRONT AND THE TUB FILL HOOD WILL NOT BE OVER THE TUB DURING FILLING OR THE TUB WILL BE ERATIC DURING THE SPIN WHEN RINSE WATER IS SPAYING IN CAUSE ING THE WATER TO MISS THE TUB AND SPRAY OUTSIDE. THIS IS COMMON IF THE UNIT HAS BEEN MOVED OR PLACED ON IT'S SIDE OR CARRIED AT EXTREME ANGLE.
Posted on Feb 03, 2008
SOURCE: kenmore washer
No need to remove the back panel on this model. You can access everything by removing the washer cabinet. Here's how:
1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
NOTE: The washer will NOT operate with the lid switch connector unplugged. If you wish to attempt to test the washer for leaks with the casing removed, you will need to by-pass the lid switch. This can be accomplished by jumpering the two black wires together at the lid switch receptacle. CAUTION: DO NOT attempt to jumper the wires with the washer plugged in! Attach jumper, then plug the washer in.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.
Now, you stated your washer leaks during the rinse cycle. Double check all hose connections on the water pump (located directly in front under the wash tub). The pumps have also been known to start leaking along the seams. NOTE: If the pump leaks, it is NOT serviceable and must be replaced. They do not come apart.
To re-install washer case:
1. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.
I know it seems like a lot, but it is an easy process if you take your time and follow the steps as written. Let me know if you need further assistance.
Posted on May 12, 2008
Unlikely to be pump, sounds more like hose leaking, or drum seal.
Depending upon severity of leak, place a sheet of newspaper under front of m/c, pushing it as far back as you can. switch m/c on for a few secs, then switch off, remove paper and you should be able to judge where leak is.
Tilt m/c back and have a look underneath.
At 12 years old, if it looks major, I think I would replace m/c.
Plz rate my solution.
Posted on Dec 31, 2008
Hi, You will need to change the inlet mixer valve. It is sticking open just enough to allow water to drip through it. This should be chandes asap so that it doesn't get bad enough to over flow the washer.
Here are directions on how to remove the cabinet so you can get to the inlet valve.
Removing the cabinet. UNPLUG the washer. There are two screws holding the control panel to the cabinet. Most models the screw are in front but, some models have the screws in back. They are on each end. Now raise the control panel up and let it rest on the hinges. Unplug the lid switch harness and locate the clips on each side (bronze in color) and release them.
Now the cabinet will lift off the frame and you can set it aside.
Please let me know if this helps you or if I can assist you further.
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
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