Headphones quit working.

Hi Sharon, try here. www.thomson-av-accessories.eu

Ron, yes the base is the charger, links below show info.

RCA Cordless Headphones WHP141

http://voxrightnow.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/7770/~/features-and-functions-of-the-rca-whp141-wireless-headphones


Follow up Review of the RCA 900mhz Wireless Headphones

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IR headphones are pretty interchangeable between overhead and headrest systems (make to make, factory to aftermarket etc).

What DVD system do you have in your car?

The two copper wires on your headphones are independent grounds for each channel. Twist them together and attach them to the ground cable ( black) of the new plug. The colored wires of the headphone correspond to the live wires of each channel, and the plug should have the same colors. Wiring together the grounds will not affect in any way the stereo separation, it is just that each ear needs its own ground. Cheaper headsets just transfer the ground from one ear to the other one through the metal headband.

the problem is the cable from one driver to the other suffers from fatigue due to the bending of the plastic frame as the headphone fits to your head, causing copper cables to disintegrate.

the solution is to take apart the headphones (mini and regular Phillips screwdriver ONLY required) and solder a new cable in. in my case i used a standard coaxial cable for replacement.

once you have split the end of the senheiser cable output from cup 1 into its two parts you need to attach it to the equivalent connections on cup 2 (which u also need to split, i suggest using a modeling knife)

the red wire is insulated with ceramic coating much the same way as an electromagnet winding, the other is standard copper. you must attach copper to copper red to red with YOUR OWN cable.

the most difficult part is removing the ceramic insulation coating on the red wire, which i removed with a blast from a cigarette lighter. simple.

problem is your cable probably will not fit in the slot designed for the previous cable so i drilled a small hole in the BACK of the cup (silver colored horse shoe shape) and ran the cable outside the plastic case. not pretty but it saved me £40 for 2 hours work, which is not bad.

i am a trained mechanical and electrical engineer so u can trust.

The bare copper conductor wire is the screening/common earth to the two signal wires of green and red. The important connection is the copper wire which goes to the jack plug earth which is the section furthest from the tip. The other two are the left and right signal connections. If you get these the wrong way round you will just have to swap them over. Check if they are the right way round by using the balance control on your amplifier or whatever. Have you checked that the problem is not with the headphone amplifier within your equipment? Don't rely on OK sound from loudspeakers as the headphones may be fed from separate op-amp output chip. Try another pair of cheap and cheerful headphones to make sure.

Buy a $4.00 1/8" jack replacement from Radio Shack - part # 274-0869, which has small screw connectors that don't need soldering.
Strip about 1" of the braided insulation at the old jack end, which will expose 4 very small wires: Blue, Green, Red, Copper.

Attach the Green & Copper wires to the tallest pin on the replacement jack.

Attach the Red to the shortest pin, and the Blue to the medium pin.

Remember to slide the jack cover onto the headphone cord before attaching any wires!

This works great, I just did it.

Each of the rubber covered cords running to each ear piece has two fine strand wire bundles inside. The right ear piece has a red colored strand and a copper colored strand. The left ear piece has a green colored strand and a copper colored strand. The wires are coated with an insulation lacquer. The lacquer burns off when you heat the wire for soldering.

Repair item: 3.5 mm stereo headphone jack, shrink tubing

Plan for strain relief:. These headphone wires can't take any tension at all. You need to crimp the black cords to the headphone jack somehow.

Slide strain relief and headphone jack housing over the over the rubber covered headphone cord.

• You need to plan a way to relieve the pulling stress on the solder joints where the two headphone cords enter your replacement headphone jack.
• Try shrink tubing if you have it.
• If you have some thermal shrink tubing, slide a piece over the headphone cord end before stripping the wires.
• Slide the headphone jack casing over the headphone cord also.

Strip each headphone cord 5/8" using the 18 gage setting of your wire stripper..

Hold each headphone cord in a "third hand" soldering assist tool and tease the green, red and copper bundles apart..I wore a 10x Magnavisor and I used a sewing needle and a bright light.

Twist the copper colored strands from both headphone cords together. They are the common ground wires. The copper colored bundle will attach to the headphone jack ground.

Apply a dab of solder to the end of each of the three bundles of wire. You will see and smell the insulating lacquer as it burns off. Keep most of the wire bundle cool.

Position the two strand headphone cord and the 3.5 mm headphone jack in the third hand soldering stand.

• Plan where you can crimp the headphone cord. Crimp it when ready.
• The green == left channel wire goes to the tip of the 3.5mm jack.
• The red==right channel wire goes to the middle of the 3.5 mm jack
• The copper colored wires go to the ground of the jack..
• Measure resistance, 31 ohms per earpiece.
• Screw the jack cover on and finish the strain relief craftsmanship.
  

http://audiovox2.info/docs/rca_acc/man/WHP140_DOC_OM.PDF

here is the guide

the adapter is a thomson output is 19v-200ma--neg polarity