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The cooktop will likely be "hard wired" in place. If its an old cooktop, the replacement model may be a different size. I would suggest you measure what the opening or cutout size is of the benchtop and check with a retailer to see if the new unit will fit or if the benchtop has to be modified to accept the size of the new unit.
Some cooktops also have small clips to hold it down which can be unscrewed from underneath the benchtop.
I had that problem also. It seemed to me that when anyone set the flame too high for the size of pan, the burner overheated. Then when the burner was turned off the igniter made clicking noises for a few hours...till it cooled down.
When I cooked at a lower setting all was ok.
This is free help...please take time to rate me....good luck.
I assume you have found an answer by now, but for the record, they are referring to an *Appliance* gas shutoff valve, not the major one for the home. Each gas appliance should have an easily accessible shut of valve (for a cooktop, it would typically be in the cabinet below). Older homes with basements may have it located there - the idea is to be able to shut the gas off to that individual appliance.
Do you hear the spark ignitor trying got light the burner?
If not, then make sure there is not a residue or film of cleaning solution on the burner bases or burners themselves. It could be coincidental that the spark ignitor failed when she just happened to be cleaning the unit.
you can increase the sides of the flames by opening the orifices, if not differences. make the orifices holes a bit bigger, you can have as big of a flame as you want. those orifices are at the connection of the burner with the valve that supplies gas to the burners.