Dual switch will operate each light fixture independently , but when you turn both on, the blink on and off. It has worked fine for 1 yr. Today it stopped working, I pulled out the little switch tab and thought I had it fixed, but then when my husband was turning them on later, it did the blinking thing

check to make sure you have all the white (neutral wires connected as well as the wire to the fixture. Make sure both wires from the fixture are connected to the wires in the light outlet box. White to white(maybe more than 1 in the light box) to the white (common) of the fixture an a different color (usually black or red) to the black from the fixture. Connect ground to ground wire or metal box. Turn the circuit breaker back on, if you turned it off, and turn on the switch. If this doesn't help it is time to get someone who can operate a multi-meter and understands electrical troubleshooting.

Hi Leonard,

I'm a licensed electrician and will be happy to help you get this working again. I suspect an incorrectly wired or incompatible switch or a load that is not designed for dimming. To know which one(s) is the problem and to be able to provide a solution, I need a little more information.

1) What was the old switch brand and model number?
2) What is the new Leviton switch's model number?
3) What type of light bulbs are you trying to operate in the 3 fixtures?
4) What is the number of and wattage of each lamp in the fixtures?
5) How many switches operate the lights?
5a) If more than one switch is used, what is the brand and model number of the other switch(es)?

Thanks

Test each light separately.
Black Hot wire arrives at one screw on the switch. The Hot black wire going to Lights connects to other screw on the switch.
The White Neutral that completes the circuit to lights is connected with other white wires that are covered with wire nut pushed to back of box.
Open up light#1, and the Hot and Neutral arrive from switch box.
The Hot and Neutral going to lights#2-6 are also located inside light#1 box.
Check each wire for signs of high heat and burning. Check each wire if the insulation has been sliced, or cut short, or if copper is visible because wire nut does not cover wires correctly
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-select-right-wire-nut.html
Disconnect Hot and Neutral going to lights#2-6, so switch is only turning on light#1.
Test if there is a short when turning switch ON.
Then repeat step, so switch turns on light#1 and light#2, but light#3-6 are disconnected.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

The wiring on most paddle / ceiling fans id such:

White = Fan and Light neutral or "common"
Black = Fan line voltage or "hot"
Blue = Light line voltage or "hot"
Green = safety ground

If you are replacing an existing light fixture - be sure to replace the ceiling box with one designed for use with a fan - as per electrical code. If the existing box had only 2 wires (or 3 counting the ground) that connected to the old light fixture and it was controlled from a wall switch, the wiring would be fixture white to ceiling white, fixture black and fixture blue to ceiling black (or red) and fixture green to ceiling bare ground or connected to the metal box. This would power both the fan and light whenever the wall switch was on and the pull chains for each were also on. This is also the preferred wiring for replacement of a pull chain type light fixture (no wall switch present).

If there are other wires in the box that previously were not connected to the old light fixture, using a meter or tester - determine if there is constant power between the ceiling white wire and any of the these other wires (test with the wall switch on and off to be sure). If you do have constant power available, you might consider using the wall switch to control only the light, and using the pull chain to operate the fan (or vice-versa). Simply connect the black (for fan) or the blue (for light) to the "constant power on" wire and that part of the fixture will work by pull chain only - regardless of the wall switch position. If the fan can be shut off by the wall switch, it is very important that the wall switch remain a toggle (or on / off switch), do NOT replace with a dimmer type switch.

If you'd prefer to operate the fan and light completely independently of each other - you can purchase a 3rd party fan & light remote control device for between $30 - $50.

I hope this helps and good luck! Please rate my reply. Thanks!

The wire to the ceiling fan are meant to send voltage to the fixture only and are not usually wired to control both the light and the fan independently. In order to do that, you may have to pull another set of wires to the switch box and then connect them to the light circuit in the box where the fan is. In regards to the other wiring that you mentioned, it makes no sense that the wires go to the stove fan and the bathroom fan unless those wires are source wires that carry the incoming voltage.

{SW1}---Light 1 switched leg to fixture 1
HOT wire (Line or Feed)----{
{SW2}---Light 2 switched leg to fixture 2

The wire supplying power to the switches will be connected to the "LINE" terminals tied together with a breakaway tab (common feed). The upper "LOAD" side terminal will output to the first light and the lower "LOAD" side terminal will output to the second light. The neutral (White) wires if present will be joined together (wirenut).

All electrical work should only be done by qualified individuals.

Hello There,

I would put the Switch's Independently for each fixture, thought wired together through the same wiring to the fusebox.

If one Switch is wired to another, they could both alternate for the same fixture, however, use them independently:
with the wires connected from the fuse box, to independent switches, but the switches are hooked up towards the fuse box. And then from the fuse box, to switches, and then to fixtures. :)

There's probably a thermal switch in the fixture which turns the fan on when the lights are on for a period of time and heat accumulates in the fixture. It sound like the heat from the attic is setting off the thermal switch. When the attic heat drops, the fixture works correctly.

This is a catch 22 situation, because if the upper housing in the attic is insulated from the attic heat, the insulation will prevent heat dissipation from the heat generated by the fixture's light bulbs. So, for safety reasons, the upper housing should not be insulated.
I'll need to work on this to come up with a fix.

TURN SIGNALS WILL FEED BACK THROUGH THE TURN SIGNAL SWITCH.THEY ARE INDEPENDENT OUT SIDE ON THE CAR BUT NOT IN THE SIGNAL SWITCH.REPLACE THE SIGNAL SWITCH

Just wondering if you ever found a solution to this problem. I have a similarly equipped 01 SuperCrew and the Map lights do not work independently. All come on when the door is opened and all work via dome light switch on dash, but none will come on when I try to switch them independantly. Everything else works fine. I suspect a bad relay, but all relays are the same part number and I have swapped places with no change in results.