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Rocker clearences honda 8hp small engine in ride-on-lawnmower we are rebuilding the engine and we need to know rocker clearences and torque settings can you please help us

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The book says 4-6 I always set them at 5

Posted on Sep 05, 2008


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What is the recomended torque setting for rocker arm nuts on a 289 ford mustang 1966


If all parts on this motor are stock and it is not a high performance engine but a stock windsor unit, there is no actual torque standard for the rocker arm nuts since the lifters are hydraulic. The manual procedure recommends the following:
with the motor off, tighten all rocker nuts until there is no slack between the rocker arm and the tip of the valve stem. Make sure each rocker is on the heel of the cam, this proceedure can be done one cylinder at a time or you can follow the ford V-8 cylinder identification for valve clearence sequence. I like the one cylinder at a time, it's a little slower but I think it's more accurate. after all rockers are set to the above mentioned clearance, start the motor and let the oil pressure build up in the lifters. At this point you should have installed the oil deflector clips on the rockers, just above the oil squirt holes, otherwise, things get a little messy. when the oil pressure is up, tighten down on each rocker until the engine starts to miss. At this point back off enough to clear the engine idle up and move on to the next rocker. Hope this helps.

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1 Answer

HOW TO SET VALVES


If that's a Briggs & Stratton engine, try this:

Valve adjustment for 28 and 31 Series B&S OHV engines done with engine cold.

The best thing to do is buy an Overhaul Manuel for this series of engine,
between $15 - $20..

Remove the valve cover. Remove the spark plug and turn the engine to TDC
(Top Dead Center). Now some people will say that there are 2 TDCs on 4
stroke engines. While the piston does come to top twice per combustion
cycle, the TDC referred to in all 4 stroke overhaul manuals, whether auto or
lawnmower, is when piston is at the top after compression stroke. Turn the
engine in the normal direction of rotation, watch the rocker arm action to
determine when the Intake Valve, the bottom valve, has just closed, use a screw driver in spark
plug hole to feel when piston is coming up and then at top. (A better idea
is a long pencil with an eraser, put the eraser end in spark plug hole) Per B&S
instructions, continue turning engine until the piston has receded ¼" down
past TDC. To do this, put a mark on screw driver (or pencil) ¼" above highest point
reached to tell when piston has receded ¼". You will need a torques head
screw driver bit for the locking screw on tappets. I would check to see that the Rocker Arm Studs are still tight in the head, they sometimes work loose.

The proper setting is Intake Valve - .003 - .005", Exhaust Valve - .005 -
.007". Use a flat feeler gauge between the Rocker Arm face and the Valve
Stem. These settings are critical as the Intake setting controls the operation of the Compression Release. I usually have to make 2 - 3 attempts before I am satisfied with the setting. When you think you have the proper clearance, take a hold of the Rocker Arm and move it by hand, side to side, etc, as much as you can and recheck the clearance
setting. The nut must be held while Locking Screw is torqued to 60 inch
lbs. I recheck the clearance setting again here. I would re-torque the head bolts while you are there.

I recommend removing and reversing the Intake Valve Push Rod when adjusting
the valves. If you remove the Aluminum Intake Valve Push Rod, you will see a
worn area down a little ways from the Rocker Arm end. This is from riding on
a fiber support rub block and the aluminum push rod will eventually bend or
break. Both ends are the same and reversing will prolong the life of the
push rod.

Note: IF you remove the push rod or any other rocker arm components, there
is a cap that sits on top of each valve stem, take care that you do not
dislodge and lose the cap. It is between this cap and the rocker arm that
you actually take your clearance reading but you will not notice there is a
cap normally. (Apparently, from the Overhaul Manual, ALL engines do not have
this cap)

Replace valve cover with new gasket, torque valve cover to 60 inch lbs.,
replace spark plug.

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Hi Paul,
You can download a copy of the entire manual, torque setting, head stud pattern, and every other usefulbit of info from here. Godd luck with the rebuild, let me know if you have any dramas with the manual. Cheers. 
regards robotek

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1 Answer

Torque on rocker nuts


First of all, put down that torque wrench! It's BS that the mfr puts in there to cover their ***.

You'll need a 14mm and 10mm open end and of course a set of feeler gauges.

With the small nut loose set your gap ( .006 intake/ .008 exhaust +/- .001 on each). Once you got your gap, hold the large nut with the 14mm and tighten down the small one. Now check your gap again, it hard to keep from moving slightly and my take a few attempts. You want to make it snug but don't gorilla torque it.

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