Hi I have a new AC Unit Amana Evap Model CC60A3X-210R 075423 with AMANA HEATING & AIRCONDITIONING REFRIGERANT evaporator leaking water,I checked by pulling the plastic threaded plug out next to where the 1/2" PVC drain line is (upstairs unit in closet on 2nd floor,mainfan and all outside on ground level)Is seems the drain line is plugged and water is flowing over the sides of the drain pan and has soaked the entire ceiling and 2 full sheetrock panels have turned to mush and had to be removed,I am in Vegas,it is around 100 and rained yesterday so humidity is up,unit is about 1 year old completely new,what precautions must I take before attemping to clear the drain nline besides killing power obviously?
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All Amana and most other brands have a five year parts warranty, without the model number I would have to say either the thermostat, control wiring which sends a signal to the G terminal may not be working or the blower motor is bad or jammed up.
Yes, the client is keeping the unit on too cold. In my opinion, this design is wrong, wrong, wrong. When a user is not cool enough they turn the unit colder, and cause this icing up.
The best design keeps the evaporator coils above freezing at all times, automatically. Users have no idea and really cannot be expected to understand this issue.
Cars did the same thing (even Mercedes), and it is just nuts. If I was in your position, I would seek to have amana make a modification kit that would sense the evaporator temperature and interrupt the compressor until the temperature rises enough to keep icing under control. Under that scenario, max is max, period, but the unit will put out cold at all times, rather than icing up.
Please try to understand with your model, the tonnage and also whether it's cool only or heat & cool. 12,000 (12)...........means 1 TR. with this help your a/c is 1.5 Tr and if it's heat and cool definately there wil be indication in the model cde it self. Ex.......A18TH DF..... like this. There will be H added in the model code itself. Yours is not heat mode. Is it helpful?
Here is a link to contact Amana.I could not find a free download for a manual,however I am sure you will need to find out the model number somehow.The model number should be on it somewhere.If it is a unit where you have to mount the casing and then slide the unit into the casing,it should be on the back somewhere once you pull it out.That's all I have for now.If that does not work,Amana should be able to tell you where it is with some description of your unit.Good luck! http://www.amana-hac.com/Home/AboutUs/ContactUs/tabid/171/Default.aspx
Try contaxting Amana Directly. www.amana-hac.com
To speak with a Heating and Air Conditioning Consumer Affairs Representative from within the United States, please call 1-877-254-4729 or use some duct tape and cardboard.
Here in Florida the old Standard was around 700 S.Foot per ton.
Now days we size them 400-500 S.Foot per ton. Appears by your Model number you have a 2-1/2 Ton system.
So id give you Max around 1700 SF.
Min 1200 SF depending on the conditions at the home.
Just a thought for you, Most AC companies will give you a free estimate for a new Ac unit, and can tell you what you may need Unit size wise.
I believe you are asking which furnace to go with?
Just some clarification first.
The "condensor" is the outdoor unit.
A "Compressor" is the device inside the outdoor unit that pumps and "compresses" the refridgerant.
An evaporator is the indoor coil, it has refridgerant running through it.
The furnace is completely seperat from the condensor and evaporator.
I "THINK" you are saying that you are looking to buy an AMANA system with a 5 ton 14 to 16 SEER condensor, and a furnace, but you need suggestions on the furnace.
typically when you purchace a condensor, the evaporator coil is simply matched by the manufacturer to the specific condensor you purchace, there is no choosing to deal with. All condensors ofcourse come with a compressor already installed.
If my assumption about your request is correct, maybe this will help.
Amana's 90+ furnaces are great units. I would recomend them to anyone. The 80+ uses a somewhat inferior heat exchanger, and is ofcourse less efficient.
Anything higher than a 90+ can take quite a while to recoup the costs of the enitial purchace through your efficiency savings.
If it were my home, I would go with the 90+ furnace, and the 16 SEER Condensor/evaporator system. But ultimatly, its up to you, your efficiency standards and your wallets potential.
If you live in a northern state where AC is little needed, I'd go with the 14 SEER AC.
Again, an initial cost verses long term savings issue.
Hi, Sounds like you have a leak in the lines somewhere and it is low on refrigerant (Freon). If the evaporator spends very much time below 32deg it will freeze up and you will feel very little air coming from the vents. The evaporator will have ice covering at least part of it depending on how much refrigerant is has in it. No refrigerant, there will be no ice or water. If the unit is properly charged, the larger of the two refrigerant lines at the condensing unit will sweat all the way back to the compressor but the compressor should be fairly dry. Restricted air flow will also cause one to freeze so check your air filter. If the ac tech thinks that the evap temp was ok at 22 deg, find another ac tech. 22 deg evap means its either too low on Freon, refrigerant filter drier is stopped up, a blockage in the refrigerant lines, too little air flow across evap coil or it could be that the evap and cond are sized wrong. The evap temp has to be above 32 deg. If it has Freon in it, you can use soap bubbles to check for leaks at the solder joints. Turn the unit off first for pressures to equalize. Let me know.