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Temperature too low - GE Refrigerators

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  • andreeg2104 Sep 02, 2008

    Thank you very much1 I will see all you say.

    Have a good day!

    Andrée ü


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There can be several reasons why the fridge is not cooling.

see the following notes from repairclinic:

Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

Posted on Aug 29, 2008

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Check the next day and see if the unit was able to reach below "0"F

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How things work

Assuming you just want to know what the compressor does
It takes the refrigerant vapor from the low side and compresses it to a high pressure high temperature superheated vapor which then goes to the condenser where it's heat content is cooled down to a sub cooled liquid and makes its way to the metering device where it is controlled to flow as a low pressure low temperature liquid thereby filling the evaporator and boiling off internally at the current room temperature
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I HAVE A westinghouse a/c system in my home,one compresser for the main home an another for the up stairs.A REPAIR MAN COME TO THE HOMEM,CHECKED THE SYSTEM AND SAID I NEEDED MORE FREEON.HE ADDED SOME...

When technicians take an air conditioning course, one of the first things they learn is to use superheat to charge a fixed orifice air conditioning system.

Superheat is not hard to deal with, but the technician needs to take four good measurements.

To get the actual superheat, the technician measures suction line pressure and suction line temperature. When he reads suction line pressure, he reads the *F scale on his gauge. That's the boiling point of that refrigerant at that pressure. To get actual superheat, subtract the suction line boiling point temperature from the measured temperature of the suction line.

To read get the required superheat from the most common A/C manufacturer's superheat charts, the technician measures indoor "wet bulb" temperature and outdoor air temperature ("dry bulb"). Using these two temperatures the technician can look up the required superheat on most A/C manufacturers' superheat charts. Required superheat's can vary from 5 *F to over 45*F depending on the conditions (indoor wet bulb and out door dry bulb). The higher the load, the higher the required superheat.
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Superheat is the temperature difference between the boiling point of the refrigerant in the evaporator and the actual temperature of the refrigerant gas after the evaporator. It is the "extra" temperature (or temperature rise) the refrigerant picks up in the evaporator after it boils.

When charging the system, the technician adds as much refrigerant as he can. But if he adds too much (overcharge), he risks flooding the compressor with liquid refrigerant.

The biggest risk of flooding is under low load conditions: low outside temperatures and low indoor wet bulb temperatures. The refrigerant boils off late in the evaporator. To make sure the refrigerant is all boiled off before the end of the evaporator, the the A/C manufacturer's required superheat chart directs the technician to stop adding refrigerant when the suction line temperature gets down to within a few degrees of the boiling point inside the evaporator. The "few degrees" is the superheat. At low load conditions, the superheat is often specified as five or six degrees. It's a safety factor to make sure no liquid gets to the compressor.

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Hello there:

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