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I have a 3 zone hot water system, and 1 zone is not working.I've tested the thermostat and it worked fine. I then adjusted the wire caps leading to the zone valve making sure the wires were not the issue.I then tought that it might be that the valve wasn't opening.While the thermostat is asking for heat, the valve it does open but the circulator does not run.I don't know what else to check

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Happy to assist you!
Perhaps a bad blower.

Sounds like an electronic failure you need a hands on diagnoses!
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You need to call service !!!!!!!!!!!!!
LET ME KNOW WHAT HAPPENS???

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Posted on Aug 29, 2008

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My comfort zone 2 thermostat and unit is brand new. I have 2 zones. AC works fine in both zones but when I needed heat only zone 1 heats which is downstairs. Zone 2 which is upstairs, does not heat.


I would call out the installer, you said it was new, so it should be under warranty.
The "W" wire is traditionally the call for heat which may not be getting to the upstairs unit, and if it is, then the unit needs to be diagnosed.

Jan 23, 2016 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

How do I connect a 24v damper motor with 6 colored wires red white yellow green blue black to NO COM NC terminals.


Choose two colors of the thermostat wire, and connect them to the NO and COM and connect them to the zone control board leads for the zone intended. Almost all zone valves spring return open when deenergized. So ensure the zone valve is open with the system is off. At the base of zone valve there is a set screw that needs to engage the damper valve shaft in the open position with the motor in the spring release position. Most zone valve are 90 degree moment from full open to full shut. If you have a Carrier zone valve, they go full open to full shut in 45 degrees of motion. Your open stop need to be set so the valve stops in the full stop position.
To help understand the operation of a zone system, say you have 2 zone system and zone 1 thermostat initiates a heat or cool demand. Zone 2 valves energizes and shuts and zone 1 stays open and allow air to heat/ cool zone 1. If zone 2 thermostat simultaniously initiates the same heat/cool demand, the zone 2 valve opens and both zone heat/cool. When either thermostat is satisfied the opposite zone valve closes and when both thermostat are satisfied both zone valves open.
Hope this helps you understand zone operation. The same works for higher multizone systems.

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2000 GMC Sierra SLE 5.3L overheating replaced the water pump, thermostat, fan clutch, & flushed radiator and its still overheating


here are 8 reasons a vehicle over heats. coolant level is low, you have a leak in cooling system, the cooling system may have trapped air inside, the radiator cooling fan is not working, radiator core has become plugged, bad thermostat, or bad water pump, or Your radiator cap needs to be replaced. Good-Day! this is mostly all problems with over heating. if it is a bad head gasket, you will see white smoke from tail pipe. thats because coolant is entering cylinders. as for the radiator cap have a parts store pressure test the cooling system, if they do it.

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Intertherm Air Conditioner S3BA-042KA compressor and fan not working (has power)


It sounds like that unit is connected to a "power saving load controller" device from the power company. The power company can turn your unit on & off with a radio signal. If you manually activated contactor and unit ran. I would bet that the power company's device or the wiring connecting it is where the problem lies. Call the power company and have them check their device. If they tell you that the device has been tested remotely and is working fine. Explain to them that you can activate your unit manually and it works fine. They should not charge you to come out. Those "load controller devices" have a pretty good longevity record.

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4 Answers

I am looking for reset code for AO Smith GPVH50 1000 water heater.Valve installed is Intellivent White rogers 184960 000, and 184960 002 on another boiler at the same location. After disconnecting Flamable...


Hi,not too sure what really prompted the problem. But you will need to still check for more posible places on your water heater to really know what causes it not to respond.

How Do I Troubleshoot My AO Smith Electric Water Heater

Troubleshooting and repairing an AO Smith electric water heater only takes a few minutes, and can save you hundreds in service calls and plumbing bills. The main indications of electric water heater problems are; no hot water, not enough hot water, slow hot water recovery, overheating and loud or unusual noises. Each of these problems has its own cause and repair requirements. We recommend calling a professional; however, you can repair most hot water heater complications yourself. Remember, if your water heater is still under warranty, or you are not sure, call the 1-800 number on your AO Smith water heater and ask for help and parts free.

Make sure the main electric circuit breaker(s) or fuses are in their "On" position inside the home's main electric panel. If a breaker(s) looks to be half on and half off, close the breaker and open it rapidly. If the breaker does not stay in the on position, replace the water heater breaker(s) and/or inspect the wiring from panel to heater. We recommend contacting a licensed, bonded and insured electrical contractor to troubleshoot the problem. In some cases, a bad breaker is a sign of trouble within the wiring system or water heater itself.
Testing AO Smith Electric Water Heater Thermostats

Turn off all circuit breakers and/or disconnect the fuses. Remove the thermostat cover plate(s) with a Phillips screwdriver. Turn the power back on.

Check for incoming power using a voltmeter. Set the meter to read 250 Volts. Touch and hold one lead wire to each of the top left and right screws of the top thermostat (or top two screws of the lower, if only one thermostat is present.) The meter should read approximately 210 to 230 volts of electricity. If no voltage is present with the breakers and fuses on, contact an electrician.

Turn on all the hot water faucets in the house until the water runs cold. This will ensure that the thermostat(s) will call for heat. Turn the faucets off.

Place one lead of the voltmeter on the top left thermostat screw and one lead on the second screw down on the right side of the thermostat. There should be 210+ volts of power. If not, turn the power off to the heater and push in firmly on the red reset button in the middle of the thermostat. You should here a click (but not always.)

Turn the power back on and check for voltage again. If no power, or limited power- fewer than 210 volts are present, check the top water-heating element for proper operation. If full power is present, but you still have no hot water after an hour or two, replace the top heating element. If no voltage, replace the thermostat.
Testing the AO Smith Electric Water Heater Heating Elements

Turn the power off to the water heater; remove the cover plate(s).

Test for incoming voltage with your voltmeter. Do not proceed until you verify that no voltage is present.

Loosen the two screws on each side of the heating element with a Phillips screwdriver.

Wearing heavy, electrical certified gloves remove each wire from the heating element and bend it slightly back out of the way.

Set your multi-meter to the Ohms position.

Place one lead on each screw of the element. The Ohm or resistance should read 12 to 16; averages are 13 to 14. If the reading is below 12 ohms of resistance, replace the water-heating element.

Reinstall the element's wiring.

Turn the power back on and test the circuit again. Reset your voltmeter to 250V. Full power should now be present. Turn the power off and replace the front cover(s).

Turn the water heater power on and wait an hour or two to check the hot water temperature at several faucets. The recovery time of an average AO Smith residential elect water heater is around 22 gallons an hour. It may take a while to reheat, depending on the size of your unit;

20 gallon 1 hour

30 gallon 1-1/2 hours

40 gallon 2 hours

50 gallon 2-1/2 hours

60 gallon 3 hours

80 gallon 4 hours

120 gallon 6 hours
Not enough Hot Water:

Calcium and other mineral buildup on a gas water heater control-valve thermostat probe will limit the heat detectable. You can clean the thermostat by removing the control valve and soaking the probe in a tall glass of white distilled vinegar and a little backing soda. Do not immerse the control valve itself; you will ruin it. Soak it for about an hour, and then rinse will with tap water before replacing.



Pilot light will not stay lit:

The most common issue with pilot lights is the thermocouple. The thermocouple is the thin copper wire, that when heated at its tip, creates a small electric charge that opens the magnetic safety valve inside the main gas control. Gas, water heater thermocouples do fail from time to time and need replaced. Older water heaters with accessible burner chamber doors are the easiest to work on. New water heaters are required to have sealed inner chamber doors and are not readily accessible. Only certified brand technicians should remove these doors. Each time the doors opened, you must replace an airtight seal. Failure to replace the seal could lead to carbon monoxide leaking from the water heater causing carbon monoxide poisoning.



The water heaters gas control valves and thermostats can also go bad. Replacing the control valve is just as critical a safety concern. If the pilot tube, and main burner tube, is not attached to the control valve correctly, gas leaks can occur.


Electric Water Heater Troubleshooting



Trouble shooting electric water heaters requires a bit of electric know how. Learning how to use a voltmeter, or multi-meter and becoming acquainted with your home electric system is most important when fixing an electric water heater. Failure to follow safe electrical practices can cause injuries and property damage.



When troubleshooting an electric water heater, keep in mind, there are only a few parts to its operating system: the heating element(s), thermostat(s), the main wiring connection junction, anode rod(s), water connections, T&PR valve, drain valve and the tank.



The most honest recommendation when repairing an electric water heater is this. Replace the thermostat(s), and the element(s), both upper and lower, if applicable, at the same time. Replacing one element or one thermostat of an electric water heater at a time causes a mismatch in the operating capacity of each part. Kind of like only replacing one battery in and electric device, it puts more of a strain on the older parts and causes premature failure. This leads to more frequent and costly repairs. Replacing all the parts at one time will help prevent future hot water heater problems and unnecessary water heater maintenance.


Water Heater Leaking



Water heater leaks are also an issue when troubleshooting a hot water heater. In most cases, you will need to replace the water heater. However, there are times when the leak is no coming directly from the water heater's tank. Leaks can also occur at a number of the water heaters connections. Before you replace your water heater, take the time to check of these locations:



Temperature and Pressure Relief valve (TP&R)- The brass safety valve usually located on the top, or near the top of water heater.

Finding Water Heater Repair and Replacement Parts

Finding water heater repair and water-heater replacement parts is not always so easy. Electric water heater repair and replacement parts are at most hardware stores, home centers and online retailers. Residential electric hot water heater repair parts are generally generic in by nature. New high efficiency, water heater parts like the ones for hybrid electric water heaters will only be available from their respective manufacturers until there is a need in the market place.



Hot water heater parts for gas hot water heaters are harder to find and often-difficult purchase. Many wholesalers will not sell gas repair parts or equipment to none licensed nonprofessionals. They feel there is a safety risk involved. However, there are online retailers whom do not see a need to limit their water heater parts sales. This is good for us, not so good for water heater companies.

Or you could simply contact them from the below link:



AO Smith Water Heater Phone Number and Contact Information

A. O. Smith Water Products Company

500 Tennessee Waltz Parkway • Ashland City, TN 37015

1-800-527-1953 • www.hotwater.com


Hope that helped

Jun 05, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Have a dual zone system. When zone 1 is working zone 2 is getting air and vice versa. What is the problem?


Try reversing the wiring at the thermostat or control station between those two circuits. There should only be one wire to change for each zone. (Not a White one)

Mar 31, 2011 | Honeywell Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My heat rises higher than the designated temperature. For example, if I set the thermostat to 60 the temperature will go up to 73. Invensys 9405


there could be a few things causing this, the first would be a bad thermostat. The second would be an improper setting of a heat anticipator on the thermostat, the third could be a stuck zone valve that is allowing heat to go in the zone as another zone is calling. Or it could be a stuck flow check also allowing hot water to flow through the zone much like a stuck zone valve.

If your thermostat is an older one with Mercury in it, replace it with a new one and dispose of properly. If the thermostat is newer, remove the cover or consult the owners manual to see if there is an adjustment that shuts off the thermostat a bit sooner to compensate for the heat that will be released from the system so you do not overshoot your setting on the thermostat. There may be either DIP switches to adjust the setting or a small pointer that slides over a small coil of wire and acts like a dimmer switch. Try adjusting and testing the system to see if it helps. Remember the original settings in case it does not help.

If you have zone valves (small boxes that allow flow of water to the zone) it may be stuck open allowing water to flow into that zone as another zone calls. You can test this by feeling the pipes at a baseboard when you know that the zone over heating is not calling for heat (turn thermostat to lowest setting). Check other zones to see if there is a call for heat in one of them. Make sure you adjust one of the other zones to force a call for heat in it, After a few minutes, feel the pipes in the zone overheating and see if the pipes are getting hot (be careful). This is the same test to check for a stuck flow check valve.

Mar 05, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

Blank readings on Carrier Comfort 3 zone thermostat


The stat that works is called the main and the other two are called slave stats. The stats must be set to heat or cool the same as the main. If you want one room to cool and one to heat , sorry. Need to upgrade to auto changeover. Is this AC actally a Heat pump?

Jul 01, 2009 | Carrier 38CKC042 Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Penguin a/c


the multiple zone thermostat should work fine but sounds like this one has an internal failure try replacing the thermostat

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