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My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
You must be in the UK. I can not pull up any information on your unit, but I will try and walk you through this.
Hopefully the water leak is directly behind the dispenser. If you have water leaking out the bottom of the door, then you are going to have to replace the whole door. It water is leaking out of the bottom of the door then the insulation in the door is saturated. Over time the water in the door will freeze and crack you door liner open. There is no way to dry the insulation out. So, lets say this is not the case.
You either have a contact pad or a paddle arm in your dispenser housing. You may have a plastic curved piece at the top of the dispenser housing. It is held in by plastic clips. Squeeze this on both sides to release.
Up plug the refrigerator. Their are electrical components behind this housing. On the bottom of the housing frame are 2 small slots. With a flat head screw driver, pop the bottom of the housing out. On the sides and top of the frame are plastic clips. Push in on the sides of the frame to release. If you have a control board on the top back of the frame - remove the connectors. They are idiot proof. Each connector is designed to only fit a special plug. Set the frame assembly aside. You may have to remove a control board fixed to the housing, A contact switch housing and the housing itself. There are screws that go around the housing frame for removal.
On the bottom of the door there is a spring and a tubing connector. Push in on the end of the connector to release the tubing. You may have to remove a black locking ring on the connector first.
The tubing assembly you are replacing is available as a part.
Here is the hard part. Using a good adhesive tape, tape the top end of the new tubing to the bottom of the old tubing. Feed the tubing up from the bottom.
If you do not have slots on the bottom of the frame, you must push inward on the frame to release the frame from it plastic retaining clips.
Is it all one piece, the outlet pipe and the t-stat housing? The gasket goes on the bottom of the housing where it mates to the engine. If the coolant is leaking from the bottom of the housing, that would require a new gasket. If coolant is leaking where the radiator hose connects to the pipe, have you tried tightening the hose clamp? If the outlet pipe and housing are separate, there may be an O-ring seal between them. You may want to pull off the radiator hose and check if the pipe is so badly corroded and rusted that it cannot seal anymore, or may have a hole in it, especially if it is thin metal.
If it's just the gasket that leaking all you'll need is a socket set, gasket scraper and the gasket. If it's leaking at the yoke or axles it'll cost you more to buy the needed tools than to have a dealer fix it.
sometimes there is a problem with the dispenser leaking which in turn runs down the trim of the machine, around the door housing and looks like it's from under the machine - look for evidence of this in the form of run lines from the bottom centre of the door. If this is the case you will need to either clean the dispenser housing or replace it depending on the level of soiling.
If it is an actual leak from the bottom of the machine the you'll have either a perished pipe or work connections
One drawer leaks can cause this problem. If you don't fix it. One day it will turn on the pumps from both units without any one touching them since the floor sensor at the bottom housing detects water and it will run for ever until you unplug the power cord.
This dishwasher is a state of art in design and replacing parts is very simple once a person has enough understanding of its mechanism. If the tech fail to find the problem then he is not qualified to touch this dishwasher.
When there is a leak, it is a problem with the lid seal from the top not closing down tightly so during the wash cycle, water shoot up and leaks through the top opening then collecting on the bottom housing of each unit. Let say the top draw is leak, so the bottom housing of top draw if full of water then it overflows to the bottom drawer unit then the floor.
Here is the idea of how it happens.
The top lid is pulled down by 2 actuators from both sides at first start. That is why you can hear the motor noise turning on at the beginning of the wash cycle. That is the noise from the actuators. If the actuators are bad. only one side works then the lid can not be sealed properly there is a leak. If bothe of actuators are week the gear worn out so they can not hold the lid down during the wash cycle then it can cause a leak.
You can pull each tube out and access from the left side at the bottom to touch the bottom housing to fell the wetness. Put in tower to dry them out. If there is a weteness from the bottom housing upper tube it doesn't mean the bottom drawers is leaking. It is wet just because the top is leaking. However you have to dry the bottom in order to continue use the bottom dryer. If you ignore my advice then your circuit board at the bottom housing of lower drawer will be damaged and it is not cheap.
With the information that I provided you can interview a tech claiming know about the this type of dishwasher before letting him coming into your house. Good luck.
If you have already replaced the filter and you can see the housing is still leaking, You have to replace the housing and water tank as an assembly (12956202). Make sure you verify it's the filter housing leaking, and not a fitting at the water valve which is right behind the plastic cover around and below the filter housing.
It depends on where the leak is coming from. If the water pump is leaking, it has a hole on the bottom of it. You will see a trail of dried anti freeze coming from the bottom of it, indicating a bad water pump. It's best to dry everything off, crank it up and let it come to operating temp and check for where the leak is coming from. It may just be an old hose or loose clamp.
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