Get under the RV while the pump is running (be safe, chalk the wheels, make shure it is stable), then look for the running pump location. Once found, shut the pump, get back inside and find the compartiment where it is located (usually behind a panel that does not open by hand) use a screw drive to open it. Find the pump and ensure that you verfy the valves and all accessible fittings.
To do that use soapy water, apply it on the fittings and valves. If you happend to see bubles forming that means that the pump is sucking air from that area and does not make a 100 percent seal which will falsly lead the shutdown of your pump. Also refer to your pump manual for proper placement of your service valves.
Hope it helped!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It is a door switch problem, or the keypad control board, the fact that when you unplug the microwave and it resets indicates a keypad control board issue, and if that is the case the part alone will rival the cost of some microwave ovens.
There may be a valve under the cook top or under the stove. You will of course have to look. There is really no 'standard' or requriement for a valve to be there.
Another reason for this kind of problem is spiders. Spiders love the smell of propane. If you are sure your gas is ON and you do have fuel in the tanks and the tanks are on, (always have the valves of both tanks open all the time (consistent with the highway regulations in your area) and the selecter lever is pointed left or right (never n the middle!)!) remove each burner and blow it out with compressed air. Simply blow it out with your breath or get some 'canned air' at the computer store.
Does your frig operate on gas? You can force it to run on gas (to check it) by disconnecting the 115 Volts; simply disconnect your main cord. Will your frig come on? How about your heater? and your hot water heater?
YOU MUST have a 12 volt battery connected to your RV - a "HOUSE" battery not a "VEHCLE" battery. Everything in your RV runs on 12 volts except the obvious 115 items like the AC and the microwave and the TV. Do not rely on the 15 amp "converter' to supply all your 12 power requirements which often exceed the ability of your converter to provide.
If you stil have no luck, I suggest you turn off the tanks and disconnect the gas line from the stove. Have an associate turn on the tanks while you observe (smell, watch, listen) the unattached pipe. If you hear, smell or see gas, have them turn it off immediately. Reconnect the pipe and test for gas tightness (use a soap water misture. Bubbles = leak. Next step will be to consider the burner controls. This may not be a DIY job. NOTE: Propane is heavy and will sink to the floor. Make sure you have no open lights or flames when you perform the test above and let the gas excape out the open door.
You don't say how old the RV is and given the thousands of makes and models it really doesn't make a lot of difference. Unlike cars and trucks, manufactures of RV's install what they have subject to many substitutions through out the model year. Typically, newer RVs have electronic ignitions while some older RVs have pilots (NOTE: pilots burn precious limited fuel and generate unnecessary heat) and many are simple match light burners.
I hope I have shed a little light on your trouble and you are able to resolve this problem. If you cannot, of course, you will have to have reservations for supper which will make you or your spouse happy.
I hope you enjoy your camper this summer. Thank you for your interest in FixYa.com and please come again.
Well I hope it is just a hose cause if it isnt it is your coils in your Icemaker . The water runs over the coils until it backs up to a switch (could be bad as well) shutting off the water so the cycle can begin to ice the water. So the most likely is the hose ,then the switch then the solenoid that shuts the water off. You can tesst the solenoid by exercising the shutoff arm on the ice maker to see if it does just that shut off. Let me know
The buzzing you hear is the water valve trying to run water to the icemaker. If there is no water going to the icemaker it will be going into cycles one after another. And when it does it adds heat into the freezer. Turn the ice maker off and see if the freezer gets colder.
We had small fridge in our RV Travel Trailer.It would run to the tempure control setting,then it would shut off.Check it out,set it up high,then as is cools in about 12-24 hours then set it to 3-4 setting that should keep fridge Kool.Or you may need some fridgerant reinstall.Call your local repair man to quotes to recharge/fridge.Hope this help you out.
The fan you hear is probably the magnetron cooling fan and that, and the light, are probably both controlled by the electronics board that controls everything else.
You might inquire online at Maytag or the Sears parts department to determine the cost of a replacement board but I suspect it will either not be available at all or cost 3/4 of a new microwave.