I havea Whirlpool top load. I changed the clutch assuming that this would solve my unit from not spinning in any dial position.The clutch replacement gave me a new stronger agitation cycle, but NO SPIN of the drum. SWhat am I missing in this equation. I expected the new clutch to give me the spin cycle back. Is there any helpfor this "Ol Girl". let me know. It would be most appreciated
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Here is another PDF of the Whirlpool parts list for their commercial washers, consumer models are basically the same.
If you look at the operation PDF you'll see how the transmission works when going into the spin cycle. If the "Neutral Drain" cams are intact, they drive the main spin gear which drives the spin gear connected to the clutch.
If the main spin gear is broken (It's a metal plate surrounded by plastic gears) you would hear a major grinding noise and the washer wouldn't spin.
Opening the transmission is not difficult but is a messy job. It holds about 14Oz. of oil.
Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft, remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.
If the main spin gear or neutral drain assembly cams are damaged, they aren't too difficult to replace.
The Whirlpool Parts PDF has part numbers for both.
The Neutral drain assembly costs about $15 which is a lot less than $170 for a new transmission.
The Main spin gear is quite a bit more but still less than a transmission.
Sounds like you may have lost your basket drive and clutch assembly. This is a pretty involved job to replace for sure, and requires you to remove the inner basket, drop the transmission, etc. Does the unit make any wierd noises, like popping or grinding? Does it agitate ok in wash? I would bet almost for sure that its that basket drive and attached sub-pack thats went bad. If you want to try and tackle this yourself, let me know, and will get you directions to do so. Good Luck!!!!