Question about Amana ALG331RAW Gas Dryer

5 Answers

Amana gas dryer mod#dlg33oraw,i have drum out change the gas coils,dryer glows for a few minunts the gas ignited then the flame goes out.It only stays lit for a few sec.HELP!

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  • billiotv Aug 28, 2008

    check the thermal fuse it check good.Ijump the wire from the flame sensor,igniter glowed but ther wasn't no flame.amana gas dryer mod#dlg33oraw ,chang the gas coils igniter glows gets a flame for a few sec.then goes out.

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Check out this link for more detailed help
www.applianceaid.com

Problem -
Gas flame comes on first few times then quits and igniter keeps cycling on and off but never lets the gas go.
Answer ( most common ) -
Replace the coils on the Gas Valve.

Problem -
No flame, no igniter glowing at all,
Answer ( most common ) -
Inspect igniter for small burnt spot on dark gray or black part of igniter or check for 110 volts to igniter when dryer should be calling for heat


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Gas dryer with no heat: The parts that I have pointed out with the arrows are the parts that you will need to check with an ohm meter if the dryer is not heating. First check and see if you have 110 volts coming to the gas valve at this type of a connector. If you have voltage, then unplug the dryer and check the parts I have pointed to. Some dryers have 3 coils instead of the 2 shown here. If you do not have voltage coming to the burner, then you will need to check the timer contacts that feed the gas burner, hi limit thermostat, operating thermostats, the safety switch on the motor, and any other point that you can see on your wiring diagram picture that feeds voltage to the burner. The coils on the gas valve are very bad for working once or twice and then quitting. If you find a open circuit on one of the gas coils, replace them all = less problems later on. If the glow coil does not work ( get red ), check it with a ohm meter for continuity. The next thing to check if the glow coil does not come on would be the radiant sensor. Inspect the igniter for small burnt spot on dark gray or black part of igniter or check for 110 volts to igniter wire plug when dryer should be calling for heat. Sometimes the ( older style ) igniter is separate from the holder and the holder can no longer hold the igniter tight enough and the two parts burn/arc where they touch each other = new igniter and holder ( some manufactures have new kits to replace these older style parts ).
Does the igniter get red and stay red, or does it get red, you hear a click and it goes off, then a minute later its gets red again?....if so you possibly have a bad set of coil valves. If the igniter gets red and stays red constantly then its the flame switch that is bad and maybe welded closed.
On the back of the dryer near the fan blower housing is a thermal fuse, if this opens up ( no continuity ) the gas burner often quits but the motor will still run. If the thermal fuse is open/bad, always clean, change, adjust the venting system and vent hood first and clean out the dryers air ducts. Sometimes it is a good idea to replace the operating thermostat at the same time. Thermal fuse parts help link...on blower housing cover, can not be re-set, must be replaced if is open (no continuity between pins). http://www.applianceaid.com/gas_dryer.html







Posted on Aug 28, 2008

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The problem is either flame sensor or gas valve. Fixing this can make appliance unsafe if you do not do the job properly.

Posted on Aug 28, 2008

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Here is a step by step procedure on checking your gas dryer. Parts location and replacements may be viewed from here

Course of action then would involve checking:

  • Thermostats or Thermal fuse;
  • Flame sensor;
  • different switches in the controller board.
Good luck.

Posted on Aug 28, 2008

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Hi,

Does the drum even turn? it might be auto stopping to prevent further damage if the drum is not turning.

Additionally, there are two (2) versions of this model (Amana DLG330RAW), pls confirm whether you have the PDLG330RAW or the PDLG330RAW1.

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Aug 28, 2008

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  • 848 Answers

Check the thermal fuse ........

Posted on Aug 28, 2008

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1 Answer

My Amana DLG330RAW igniter glows orange and a flame is produced initally when starting the dryer but after the flame goes out when the igniter glows orange again (shorter glow time) a flame never occurs...


could have bad gas coils? part 279834 they're located on the top of the gas valve unplug dryer,remove the two pillips screws,lift up the cover and change out the coils,watch out on the three prong coil there's a spacer that you want to stay on the post so when you slide the new coil on the coil it's tight,if the spacer isn't on the post after you remove the old coil look in the old coil and stick anything that will fit and push out the spacer then slide it back on post then install your new coils.also while you're in there get a shop vac and vac up all the lint you see,remove the lint filter and then remove the duct that the filter slides down into and clean that,then set the vac up to blow and blow all the lint from the back forwards and vac that up,make sure you blow the motor off and the gas tube and parts,you should do this at least once a year with gas so you don't have a fire,then go outside and make sure the duct is clear no cages or anything on it,go back inside and remove the vent line from the back of dryer,if it's a long run you can stick a leaf blower into the vent line and blow it out.if you need anymore help let me know.

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I have an Amana gas dryer that doesn't ignite.


Hello,
The most common failure when the igniter glows yet DOES NOT GO OFF followed by the flame is a defective flame sersor
this is what the flame sensor looks likeoldtech2332_46.jpgIt is attached to the outside of the burner tube,
Their are basically 2 types of those,1 that attaches to right side of burner cone and 1 that attaches to left..to order correct one what ya need is the model number which is typically on a label on the inside of the door on the rim of the drum opening

Just to be sure before replacing it,is that what your experiencing..that the igniter glows yet does not go off? if yes that pretty much sums up what your experiencing go ahead replace that flame switch.

If igniter do go off but no flame the problem will be with the gas valve coils

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Hi,
If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heating the most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glows sometimes it is still not working properly.

if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip....

If you have an electric dryer, you can have many different things that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat.

check out this electric no heat tip...


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HI. This will essentially be an issue that concerns the gas valve coils. With that said, I will post below a complete burner assembly procedure that will help you isolate the culprit. I'm sure that the coils will fail the test, but to be safe, follow the procedure to confirm.

Gas valve/Burner testing procedure:

On the gas valve are one or two coils (solenoids) used to open and close the valve to control the flow of gas. If a coil fails, gas will not flow and the dryer will have no heat.

The easiest way to diagnose a problem in the burner assembly is to observe the burner operation. Remove the small access panel at the bottom, front of the dryer, select a high temperature setting and start the appliance. Watch the burner assembly, shortly after starting the dryer the ignitor should begin to glow. Next you should hear the click of the gas valve coil and a flame should ignite. The flame should be mostly blue and it should remain on for a minute or more.

If the ignitor glows for several seconds (up to 15 seconds) and then goes out, the problem is probably the coils (solenoids). If the ignitor glows and stays on, then the problem is usually the flame sensor. If it ignites and then quickly goes out, it is most likely a problem with inadequate air flow.Test the coil for resistance using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X10. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should change from a reading of infinity to roughly 1300 ohms (+/- 150 ohms) when the probes touch the terminals. If the reading is infinity or substantially different from 1300 ohms, the solenoid should be replaced.

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