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I have wired my stove correctly but there is no power from the power switch, also non of the outside lights are working.

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Dear friend,
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Posted on Aug 28, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1 Answer

I have the light switch wired correctly but I'm not getting power to outside what could the issue be?


Broken wire in wall or Roof Cavity . Blown Globe on outside light.

Rats find electrical cables with power very tasty and may have eaten power cable or shorted out wiring in wall or ceiling (happened to me took weeks to figure out why circuit breaker kept flipping off)

Mar 08, 2015 | Electrical Supplies

1 Answer

3 plates stopped working and the 4th one does not switch off.


unplug the unit and gain access to the wiring connection for all 4 elements(plates). remove the wiring from the element that will not shut off. while making sure none of the unconnected wires do not touch any metal or another wire, and plug in power cord. if the 3 non-working elements get hot then replace the none working control knob

Apr 03, 2014 | Stoves Kitchen Ranges

1 Answer

Burner will not get hot enough


When the burner arced out it probably also ruined the switch. Most switches on a standard electric range have 5 wires. 2 wires to the burner. 2 hot wires from power and a smaller wire which connects to the indicator light marked P. It is easy to test the switch Unplug the stove. Turn the suspect switch on wide open. Check for continuity between the 2 terminals going out to the burner marked H1 and H2
If you cannot get a reading then the switch has failed. Note: when replacing the switch usually on most stove the replacement will not be or look like the original HOWEVER it will still have L1 and L2 H1 and H2 and P but the terminals are not always in the same order. If you fail to correctly connect the new switch you will fry 2 switches when both get turned on. Ouch!

Aug 30, 2012 | Kitchen Ranges

2 Answers

Light wont come on.....2 lights over bar, 1 lights, 1 does not


Are the lights wired black to black, and white to white?
If lights are on timer or dimmer, make sure timer-dimmer are rated for type of bulb, and wattage
Some timer must have minimum wattage.
Use non-contact voltage tester to see if lights are getting power when switch is ON.
Check if wire nuts are tight.
Fluorescent? Look at ballast and see if black ooze is coming out to indicate that ballast is bad.
Check that bulbs are correctly held in place.
If one bulb is bad, others might no work. Replace bulb when it starts getting dark on the ends.
Incandescent? Check that light bulbs are good
Install new switch.
Check white neutral wire located in back of switch box and covered with wire nut.
Click breaker all the way off and then back on.

Oct 31, 2011 | Home

1 Answer

I have a double switch box controlling inside lights and outside lights. I installed a GE Smart Digital Timer (model 15086) to control the outside lights. In the wall box, the white wires are tied together...


From the description you gave on your post , sounds like you hooked the timer up correctly . Again , from the panel the hot ( black ) is jointed with the blacks feeding the inside switch and the timer correct ? And the Neutral ( white ) is jointed feeding the inside lights and timer for outside correct ? And from the timer ( GE model 15086 ) the Red Wire ( Switch Leg from timer ) is connected to the Black ( Switch Leg ) feeding the outside lights correct ? If this is exactly how you've wired your timer , then you have done your homework . Now all you need to do is make sure you have programed your timer correctly , and with your instructions that came with the timer , this should be no problem . If you continue to experience trouble , my suggestion would be to return the timer . It's not unheard of for some of these timers to come from the factory defective . This wiring configuration should not affect your inside lights . I hope this helps your home wiring project . I'm an electrician if that's any consolation !

Feb 09, 2011 | Hammering

1 Answer

Kitchenaid gas/convection stove oven door locked & won't open


F5 - E7 Self clean latch will not unlock

Remedy:

1. If door latched:
  1. Disconnect power from unit.
  2. Check wires and connectors from control to door switch, then from door switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C.
  3. Replace door switch.
  4. Re-apply power.
  5. Press and hold any key down for 1 minute to clear F5 failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.
2. If door not latched:
  1. Disconnect power from unit.
  2. Check wires and connectors from control to latch switch, then from latch switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C.
  3. Repeat steps A and B for door switch.
3. Measure door switch (door open = switch open small low voltage terminals). Replace switch if defective.
4. Measure latch switch (unlatch = switch open, CAUTION - oven light contacts are closed). Replace switch if defective.
5. If corrections are made in any step, reconnect power to control. Press and hold any key for 1 minute to clear R failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.
6. If failure remains, disconnect power and replace control.

Note: Applies to all F5-E... codes.

Sep 17, 2009 | Ovens

1 Answer

Pilot on GE stove keeps popping non-stop


As far a "popping" do you mean the igniter on the cook top "clicking"? Did you clean the range and use too much water? If water gets into the igniter switches they will short out and constantly click. Also if the polarity at the electrical plug you can get what is called "ghost spark" so make sure that the polarity is correct at the electrical outlet. Each gas control valve has a switch that turns on the igniter when the knob is in a certain position and they are all wired in a sequence. One of those switches may be shorted out or have a loose wire(range dis-assembly required to inspect). Do you visually see a spark at the electrodes of the burners or do the burners ignite? If you cannot see the spark then there may be a grounding issue and possible loose wire.

Sep 15, 2009 | GE Profile Spectra JGBP90 Gas Kitchen...

1 Answer

Oven wont work,stove (burners work fine E1, f5 error codes


HI. this is a self clean latch malfunction code.

1. If door latched:

1. Disconnect power from unit.
2. Check wires and connectors from control to door switch, then from door switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C.
3. Replace door switch.
4. Re-apply power.
5. Press and hold any key down for 1 minute to clear F5 failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.

2. If door not latched:

1. Disconnect power from unit.
2. Check wires and connectors from control to latch switch, then from latch switch to control. If no damage to wires and all connectors okay, proceed to step C.
3. Repeat steps A and B for door switch.

3. Measure door switch (door open = switch open small low voltage terminals). Replace switch if defective.
4. Measure latch switch (unlatch = switch open, CAUTION - oven light contacts are closed). Replace switch if defective.
5. If corrections are made in any step, reconnect power to control. Press and hold any key for 1 minute to clear R failure code from memory. F2 will appear. Press CANCEL and observe for 1 minute to ensure operation is correct.
6. If failure remains, disconnect power and replace control.

Sep 02, 2009 | Whirlpool Accubake RF362LXTT Electric...

1 Answer

Stove top burner replacement


if your sure you have it wired correctly then replace the switch but first id double check the wiring on the switch

Jan 10, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

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