I have a problem with the focus not working on this camera. We are on our second camera and both have had the focus stop working. This camera has taken great pictures so far, but if it is going to be problem prone then I need to find something else.
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Re: Optio 30 Focus Problem
Please be informed that the [Firmware Version 1.01 for Optio30] has been released.
Changes of the Version 1.01
In very rare case, the Auto-focus system may be malfunctioned at the [Flower], [Food] and [Pet] mode.
This has now been corrected.
This does not apply to the ther capture modes.
Follow link below for more information and to download the firmware.
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I'm out of practice because my camera suddenly stopped working 6 months ago, but I don't recall having a problem with blurry pictures when I used the zoom. Sometimes, it takes a few seconds for a pic to come into clear focus. I think the trick is to just keep working with it.
Discover the location of the problem by elimination if you have a spare lens. If the second lens does not auto focus the problem is on the camera or connections to the lens. If the second lens works correctly then the first lens is faulty in the focus area. I hope this helps to target the source of the problem.
I'm afraid this camera does not have any possibility to do manual focus. Not with stills and for sure not with recording video.
The only thing to help you focus on a certain object, that is not in the centre of the frame, is the focus lock. You have to point at the object you want to focus on, then press focus lock and than you can choose the composition you want to shoot. Focus lock occurs when you press the shutter release button half.
For video, the manual only says put the rail on the film camera and press the shutter release button once. The video will be stopped after 12 seconds. (or when you press the button again.
That is all.
I have a sample image here, I'm not sure how it will load it's a crop from a full frame. I've read into your camera specifications and have found that 15 seconds is the longest shutter speed you can use, I didn't find a "Bulb" for shutter speed and this will limit your abilities to make clear "clarity" night photographs to work within the 15 seconds you will need to increase the ISO, increasing the ISO will introduce a grain effect and the clarity will fall off. I'll give you a starting point some things you won't like what I'm saying but I've been doing this since 1983. You will need a sturdy tripod. Shut the IS off. See if you can focus on your subject and compose. If you can't auto focus (lack of light or contrast) switch to manual focus, focus is critical if you can't obtain this the shot will be useless. After focus compose your scene set your camera at ISO 100, manual mode F11 adjust the shutter speed to give proper exposure increase ISO by one stop and decrease F stop by one (F8) check exposure once you have the exposure recompose your scene. Make sure the camera is in manual focus, IS (image stabilization) is off, set self timer to 2 second delay, check your scene again and release the shutter and don't touch the camera again until the exposure is complete. There is a whole lot more to this and you are limited because of the lack of the bulb feature or a shutter speed greater then 15 seconds. Sample image
Try this. Aim the camera at the person/object you want to take a picture of. Press the shutter button "HALF WAY DOWN" wait 2 seconds then complete by pressing all the way down to take the picture. The auto focus works on the "half way down" stroke. Some cameras have a light that goes from red to green to let you know the focus was completed. Or, just wait the 2 or so seconds.
The 400D uses flash assisted focusing. In low light conditions the auto focus cannot get a focus lock so it pops the flash a few times so the lens has a chance to focus. You will notice this will go away when in the manual focus mode (the switch on the side of the lens).
The only way around this problem (as people in a photo think the photo has already been taken and looks away when the camera actually takes the picture) is to use a hotshoe mounted TTL Canon Speedlight (430ex or 580ex) which use an infra-red focussing beam.
WHOA! THIS SOUNDS LIKE ONE OF TWO THINGS. FESS UP. ARE YOU USING THE 1/2 STOP ON THE PLUNGER BEFORE YOU SNAP THE PHOTO? THAT 1/2 STOP IS SUPPOSE TO FREEZE THE ACTION FOR A SPLIT SECOND BEFORE YOU TRIP THE SHUTTER. IS IT BROKE?? IF IT KEEPS TRYING TO FOCUS IT'S GOING NUTS TRYING TO RANGE TO ALL THE THINGS HITTING THE LENS, NEAR, FAR,FARTHER,NOT SO FAR AND ON AND ON. THAT IS WHERE THE 1/2 STOP PRESS IS SUPPOSE TO STOP THE RANDOM SEARCHING FOR DISTANCES AND SETTINGS. WITHOUT DEPRESSING THE TRIGGER 1/2 WAY JUST BEFORE YOU SHOOT, THAT LENS IS GOING NUTS AND YOUR PICTURES ARE GOING TO DRIVE YOU NUTS! WHY WON'T THEY STAY IN FOCUS?? 1/2 STOP, 1/2 STOP, VERY IMPORTANT. OF COARSE I COULD BE COMPLETELY BONKERS AND YOUR CAMERAS HAS JUST HAD A SPAZZ ATTACK AND IS IN DESPERATE NEED OT THERAPY.REALLY THOUGH, IF THE 1/2 STOP IS NOT WORKING REPLY TO ME AND I WILL POINT YOU TO A SANE SITE THAT WILL GIVE YOU A QUOTE FOR REPAIRS IF DESIRED. I HAVE ENJOYED YOUR PROBLEM, IT HAS BEEN FUN, IT NEEDS TO BE FUN, FROM TIME TO TIME, LIFE IS WAY TO SERIOUS. I WOULD LOVE TO SOLVE YOUR PROBLEM! GOOD LUCK FOR THE MOMENT, KEEP GOOD NOTES
Panfocus mode on the F505 appears to convert the lens to a fixed-focus design,
(everything in reason is always in focus) presumably by stopping down, and perhaps by doing other lens adjustments.
So "panfocus" must mean "the whole world is always in focus", instead of "quickly focus as you pan", as at least one reviewer has misinterpreted it. This feature is very handy for a couple of reasons. First it eliminates the autofocus
delay, cutting the shooting time down to just the shutter release delay. And
second, it allows for shooting in total darkness, since the image is always in