How long should it take to reach a hot temperature?
Ok, pulled it out...now the louvers are open a little more on the exhaust vent...not blowing air as much as most of my old dryers ever did though. Barely a breeze compared to the weather around here most days!! (Haha)
Shouldn't it really blow? Shouldn't the temp be really warm when you open the door up? (the temp setting is set to HOT)
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Re: How long should it take to reach a hot temperature?
Try disconnecting the vent at the back of the dryer and run the dryer with the air blowing just into your laundry room for a few minutes. Air flow should be strong and you should feel discharge air heating. It still sounds to me as if the dryer has flex vent and maybe does not line up with the dryer outlet, so that when the dryer is pushed back into place the actual space left for the exhaust air to pass through is very small. If this is the case, there is a telescopic low profile aluminum vent available to solve the problem.
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Although there might be a problem with the temperature controls allowing it to overheat, most of the time you will find that low air flow is the culprit. First check all the venting from the rear of the dryer all the way to the outside of the house to make sure there is a clear, open (fully 4" diameter) airway. Mashed ducting, dirty ducting, outside wall caps with stuck louvers, etc. will restrict airflow and contribute to this problem. One method to test this is simple - pull the dryer away from the wall, disconnect the exhaust vent (allowing the dryer to blow into the room for the test) and check the temps. If temperatures are normal (probably 150 -165 degrees) then the problem is the venting. If the problem remains after this experiment, then check the dryer's blower fan to make certain it is not broken, loose or blocked with debris.
you have an airflow problem. Check the vent hose all the way out and the outdoor vent hood.
a simple verification can be performed by disconnecting the vent hose from the dryer and see if this solves the problem.
There is a device in the circuitry for the heating element which shuts off power to the heating element when the dryer gets above a certain temperature which is ealsily reached with a clooged vent hose. This device, a thermal limit switch or thermal fuse, cannot be reset, it has to be replaced.
If you want to do this yourself, let me know -- if not, you will need to arrange for someone to repair the dryer. The device costs about $20 -- a service tech will probably charge up to $150 for the repair.
Sounds like a blown thermal fuse problem which is caused by blocked lint duct and vent or a faulty cycling thermostat. The exhaust air temperature rises when there's a blockage in the duct/vent or when the cycling thermostat fails to cycle off properly. The thermal fuse blows when the temperature reaches the fuse rating and terminates power to the motor. The dryer will not start and no dryer function works. Click on the link below for the detailed troubleshooting instructions.
The little white part with one hole is the thermal fuse, similar to the cutoff but service a different purpose.
The cut off will blow if there is lack of air flow, typically a plugged vent or lint screen.
The thermal fuse will blow if the exhaust temperature is too high. The reason the temperature is too hot can be one of two things.
#1 and most likely is the component right next to the thermal fuse, it is the operating thermostat.
#2 A shorted heat element that is on all the time, this can be checked by turning the timer knob to 30 minutes on the timed dry cycle, close the door but do not start the dryer. Open the door after about 2 minutes and see if the drum is hot. If it is not the element is okay.
Remove the back of the dryer and chek the lint filter area from the lint catching filter to the exhaust tube. There is a blockage in airflow even though you feel the air at the exhaust there still insn't enough air flow to allow the proper drying of the clothes. This symptom that you gave clothes being hot but not dry the only cause for this is improper air flow
Hi, it sounds like you have covered most bases. One other thing I would check is total airflow. Outside, where the dryer exhaust leaves the building it should be unobstructed, If there is a flap or louvers they should open freely. You should be able to feel the warm air when you put your hand at the vent. If aiflow is good, the thermostat may be defective.
Dryer vent is restricted. Look behind dryer to make sure there is no flex duct squished, preventing air flow. Try to avoid flex duct, use as few turns in vent as possible, and keep vent as short as possible. Vent may need cleaning also. This dryer is very good, as it uses an independent variable speed blower motor to help compensate for long and or restricted vents.
Poor drying problems with dryers generally are attributed to clogged ducting. You have probably heard this before, but the first (and least expensive) fix for any dryer with long dry times is to check the air movement. As well know, dryers require good air flow to ensure proper drying. Now, when you said the air movement is strong, were you checking it at the air vent exhaust outside, or were you checking on the back of the dryer? An easy way to tell if there's a clog in the ducting, or a clog in the dryer is to run one load with the dryer vent disconnected from the back of the machine. Only run one load like this. Not a good idea to blow hot moist air into an enclosed area of your home over a period of time because it can cause mildew problems. If the dryer blows freely and your clothes dry faster, you know you need to check the ducting from where it connects to the wall to where it ends at the exhaust vent. Often it is not enough to just clean the lint trap and the outside vent. You need to check what's in between them as well. Mice and birds are notorious for building nests in dryer vents and clogging them up. Now...if the dryer is blowing poorly at the exhaust port on the back of the dryer, you will need to remove the door kick panel under the door and remove the vent duct housing to get to the blower fan. Make sure you unplug the dryer before attempting this. There are live voltages present even with the dryer turned off. Lint can get trapped in vent housing and restrict the movement of the fan, which, in turn, will cause poor air movement and longer dry times. Last of all, take a temperature reading at the exhaust port on the back of the dryer. A good temperature reading is roughly 140 degrees F. If the temperature is too low, you may have an operating thermostat or high limit thermostat malfunctioning. Check your vent ducting, first and let me know if you need further assistance. I hope this helps you.