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I have a wood burner purchased from B&Q I intend to istall his a in a conventional fire place - Do I need to have liner for the flue and what regulations cover combustion etc

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Thanks for being concern, call the city mechanical code inspector office ! Thank-you-very-much!

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

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Even if it was a wood burning fireplace from the beginning & was converted to gas ?


Now that's a LOT of additional information. I hesitated to answer your question the way it was worded originally.... IF in fact it is a masonry chimney and originally built to burn wood, you should have a chimney sweep do a thorough inspection of the flue to ensure it is safe to use again. Flue temperatures, while burning wood, EASILY exceed 1200 degrees whereas natural gas flue temps are in the 450 degree range.

It also should have a clay tile liner and not be fabricated of brick only. The unsafe thing of an unlined brick chimney or a chimney with a severely cracked liner has to do with unburned gases condensing within the inner surfaces of the chimney. Some of those gases are moist and will condense on the inner surface and eventually have an unsafe build up that can be ignited by an oversized flame or excessive sparks causing a flue fire. During a flu fire, temperatures exced 2000 degrees and an unlined BRICK flue of that age could have lost some mortar allowing superheated gasses to seep into the crevices. Those superheated gasses then explode when igniged by the flue fire and either do extreme damage to the flue, blow the entire chimney apart or in the worst case scenario burn your house down.

I'm sure you've seen houses burnt and the chimney was left standing....but you have also seen damaged houses with the chimneys blown off the end of the house and laying in rubble toppled out into the yard. The latter visual picture was an example of the end result of the gasses exploding. If the chimney was inside the house instead of on the end of the house, the house would have been burnt also.

There is a lot to be careful about when heating with wood and to start off safely you need to have your chimney inspected and the gas components removed with the gas line capped EXTERNAL of the fireplace.

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Wood Burner Flue & stone fireplace building.


You might want to have a professional take care of that. Wrong move and your going to burn your house down

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Pilot light keeps going out after about 10 seconds on my Gazco Riva 67 inset fire.


Most likely it is the flame sensor thermocouple not working. Make sure the probe is right abaove the pilot flame and make sure it is clean and not covered in soot. The probe needs to sense the flame or the gas valve closes. These can be found at almost all harware suppliers and stores.

Mar 08, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have just opened up my chimney and took it back to the bare bricks and was giong to install a wood burner but decided to fit a gas stove instead. there was originally a gas fire installed so it has a...


Hi,

You will need to install a flue liner ( i know its a nuisance) to allow the products of combustion to escape as quickly and as safely as possible.

If you installed a gas appliance without a liner, due to the temperature of the flue gases (lower than solid fuel) the emissions would struggle to exit via the flue terminal.

If you install the appliance following the manufacturers instructions, you cannot go wrong. The other recommendation is get a 'Gas Safe' engineer to carry out the commssioning/testing.(house insurance void if not certified)

I hope this helps.

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You should have a swept T connector at the base, with the sweep going from the stove upwards, but the other end of the T going into a removable cap - or very short length of pipe. If you only have a standard bend - replace it with the T.

This is actually normal for wood burners. In an unlined chimney, the lighter "tar" fractions from the wood would soak into the brickwork, and show through the wall in a few years. In a lined system - they have to go somewhere, and usually condense inside the flue - running back down to the base.
The "chinese hat" style cap is actually very good for everything except sideways hail.

Sorry - but it's the nature of the fuel. It is possible to use a clay based absorbent at the base - Cat litter is actually fine.

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(1) The lower "enamel" pipe is possibly Ceramic coated pipe, used for high temperature flue applications.
(2) The "stickey black tar" is creasote. Whoever installed the flue pipe did it wrong. It needs to be reversed so that the "Crimped" end of the pipe is pointing down. That way the creasote will drain back into the stove and get burned up.

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