Question about Karcher 2500 PSI Pressure Washer
I think that my pressure washer just had a pump failure. I have a few questions about this -
Why did it happen? How can I fix the pump? Does this happen a lot?
I have a Karcher pressure washer w/ a 5hp Honda engine. It only will run while the choke is pulled out and only runs at about half the rpm's. When the choke is pushed in.. it coughs, sputters and shuts off. Can you tell me how to fix this....
Posted on Nov 05, 2008
there is a loader and unloader valve on your pump bolted to it. if it frozen in the open position it will never build press. most of the time this is caused by leaving cleaning solutions in system after use and let set up for a long period. it causes the aluminum case to corrode.;you will have to dissassemble and clean if not to bad. if not your going to have to replace.
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
411a when i turn on it gos for 1 min then i have too press it on and off 3or 4 times befor it works and it only stays on for 1 min.
Posted on May 21, 2009
I handled various Karcher washers, but the 2500 I never came across it. Just the same I will give you a few hints and maybe the solution for the problem. When the oil is milkey this means it has water in it. This means that there are faulty seals for sure. Now in many Power Washers the compartment where the oil is located is filled with oil prior to assembling the head unit that contains the pistons. So you have to take apart the the complete head change all seals( HP seals, LP seals and OIL seals). There are pumps that take multi-grade oil(15/50) and others 90 grade oil. If your pump is fan cooled, it probably takes 15/50 oil. Now one of the main biggest problem of water in oil is Faulty and Scratched PISTONS.
So when you have the pump apart....check condition of pistons. It is useless to change seals if pistons are damaged.
Now one thing regarding your problem, is that you have to put together the head with the pump upside down, so that you can fill the compartment (where the pistons are pushed by the swash plate), with OIL, before you put back the complete head with good pistons,springs,seals, valves...etc..etc. These few hints are relevant to quite a number of Karcher washers.
Posted on May 22, 2009
is not necessarily a cap, but could be a screw in plug, that should be close to the hose hook-up on the pump Inside there there should be a round ball and a spring that you can tighten or loosen to adjust the unloader and if it has been used ALOT, where the ball seats there could be grooves cut in there and you might need to get a valve kit to fix it
Posted on Sep 05, 2009
unfortunately these little units have this problem commonly, 9 times out of 10 it will be the plastic head or the plastic valve block on the unit will be cracked and leaking slightly... it builds up pressure then leaks out and tries to build up the pressure again and this just reoccurs over and over...
you can get this repaired but is normally about half the cost of a new unit, if the pressure is still okay i would probably recommend just keep using it until it proper dies...
If you do get this fixed, we have studied into this and believe the main cause of heads cracking is warm water say if your inlet hose is in the sun for a period of time this can cause the water to become quite hot or if the unit sits and water trapped inside the head assy freezes can also cause this. Hope this helps Kind Regards Brad
Posted on Jan 02, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks very much brado83. The cycling interval has now increased, so I am going to try to fix this myself.You have confirmed my part suspicions.Cheers"
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