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Deep well 275' replaced water filter on water line in house problem water has a fine mud in it and after we take two shower we have no water

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Ts doing Its job, If 1-last 2-showers. then 2-3-4- filters in parrell should last 4-6-8 showers ....or go bigger . Who said "BIGGER IS NOT BETTER") Thank-you-very-much!

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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When water runs off the condenser, is there a path it follows to the back of the unit that cold become blocked?


ac units are designed with a small trough at the back of the unit under the evaporator fins
this trough drains out a small hose to outside the building
It can become obstructed by gunk from the inside of the house ( same gunk that blocks the air filters) or the hose attached to the drain outlet can become blocked
check for a mud wasp nest in the drain hole as well

Jul 12, 2015 | Filter Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

I JUST INSTALLED A TITAN N-120 TANKLESS HOT WATER HEATER AND IT WORKS FINE FOR ALL THE SINKS BUT IT IS NOT PROVIDING HOT WATER TO THE SHOWER AND THE WATER FLOW HAS DIMINISHED IN THE SHOWER AS WELL.


It's doubtful your water heater unit is the problem. There is simply no reason for it to only work on sinks unless some how the pipe size was drastically reduced coming out of the unit so sinks got plenty of hot water but the shower does not. Take a second look at the installation. The pipe should not be less than 1/2" coming out. If that's OK then consider a clog or valve problem.

May 18, 2015 | Titan SCR2 N-120 - 11.8 KW Tankless Water...

1 Answer

Every 3 or 4 mins the water goes cold in the shower and bathroom sink then after about 20 seconds it goes hot again


This is ussually a problem in older houses where the pipe sizing is smaller. It occurs when water is being called for at another source in the house, usually a toilet. With newr faucets if you remove the cover you have an adjustment that will help to set the water maximum temperature so you do not get scalded when this occurs. This ussually means that the faucet with the problem needs to be replaced. hope this helps!

Jan 28, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

It is an Aprilair Humidifier 220 with thermostat control. The unit is attached to the furnace and for 3 days, we have had water on the floor! We just moved in 2 months ago and are not familiar with a...


Check the drain on the humidifier (at the bottom there is a drain which should be attached to some type of hose that drains into your sump or other wastewater orifice)...

check the filter (remove the lid and the filter is that corrugated metal type thing (it may be clogged causing overflow - you can replace it for about 7bucks at home depot)
also check that the water line (should be attached to the black plastic frame is attached and the water is going into the top part of the black filter holder)
check that the filter is sandwiched properly within the black plastic holder
lastly check the actual holes in the black plastic filter holder to make sure they are not clogged
remember to bring the old filter to confirm size for the replacement

Jan 28, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

3 Answers

Water is leaking from my downstairs air conditioning vent


I seriously doubt it's the AC. It may be the draing in the upstairs shower, If it's a water line it is a very small leak and is probably puddling in you ceiling. if not nbeing absorbed. Best thing is contact your homeowners insurance because you are going to not only have a plumber to deal with , but a mols issue as well. Sorry, good luck.

May 31, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

How do i adjust a mira shower to run hotter


There is a anti scald thermistor inside the center section of your shower knob's. You need to remove the cover and take out the center section. Rotate the know counter clock wise one or two notches. Replace and test the water temp. I just bought one for my house kinda nice I guess they made these in case someone flushed the toilet while someone was showering. ken

Dec 30, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Have a combi boiler and the hot water from my taps are running cold to luke warm. My British Gas engineer has told me it is nothing to do with the boiler but is caused by a faulty thermostat cartridge in...


Modern shower valves have an "anti scald device" in them to prevent scalding from to hot water.

They come preset at 120 degrees.

Sometimes they can start to malfunction and all you get is warm, not hot water, they can also be intermittent.

This will only effect the shower valve though, not the other faucets.

Dec 06, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

How do you clean the drain port on a LG 24000 air conditioner window unit


Not sure if this is what you're looking for, but if it might help... I just posted this on a similar issue (water buildup in the front of the unit and/or a rattling noise when the fan is running - sounds like it's running through water and it's spitting water out of the vent). I'm guessing that it's designed similarly to other LG units...

If the unit has been working fine for a long time and then you suddenly have this issue, the angle you have the unit set at is probably fine, but you probably have a blockage of dirt/mud/sludge/whatever that is keeping it from draining properly. Here's what you have to do...

For safety... turn the unit OFF and UNPLUG IT.
Open the front gate and remove the air filter. Next, remove the entire front gate from the unit (probably at least one screw to remove first - mine was in the middle, just under wher the bottom of the air filter sits). With the gate removed you should have access to locate your blockage problem.

There is a hole that allows the water to drain from the front of the unit (the part that is inside your house) to the back of the unit (the part that hangs outside your house) and eventually out of a drain hole in the rear. Chances are that this hole is clogged. So, when the water fills up in the front drip tray it has no access to drain to the back. Consequently, the water builds up in the fan area which causes the rattling noise and the water being picked up by the fan and blown out of the vent. If left too long, it will overflow the front drip tray and make a mess in your house.

On my unit, the hole was on the far left side (if your are in your house and facing the AC unit) of the drip tray. You can use a piece of coathanger wire, or some other long thin instrument to push the blockage through to the rear. Once this pathway from the front of the unit to the back of the unit is clear, your problem should be solved. You will probably still get the sound and water sputter out of the front for a little while until the water that is in the fan area drains/dries out, but it should return to normal soon.

It is probably best to actually remove the unit from the window and take the cover off of it and really clean it out, but that is obviously a much more involved task. If you have a hose, that's fine and will help. Water won't hurt the unit - just keep it away from the electronics (the controls/display/cord). You should also be carful not to bend any of the tiny metal fins... that's just as bad as (actually worse than) being blocked by dirt/dust. And obviously, allow the unit to dry before you put the cover back on and put it back in your window and plug it in to run it. If you are willing to put in the extra time and effort, you can do a more thorough cleaning job, which would help to prevent the problem from happening again too soon. There's no way to prevent dirt/dust from building up in the unit. Once water/moisture is added to the mix, you're dealing with mud/sludge, which is going to eventually block that small drain path. The only solution is to clean it out once in a while.

I figured this out the hard way. I took the thing out of the window cleaned it (not as thoroughly as I thought) and put it back in and then did it all again. The third time I actually found the hole that was blocked. If it hadn't been such a pain taking it all apart and cleaning it the first two times I would have laughed at myself for missing it.

Good luck! Hope this helps!

Jul 27, 2008 | LG Electronic Window Air Conditioner

1 Answer

Hi, I have hot water coming through the cold water taps in the house, there is a check valve on the cold water return side of the water heater. could this be the problem? The cold water line feeding the...


i have seen a faucet that has a valve on the end (like your pull up on the shower)back feed the hot water or yes you could have a bad ck valve dan

Jul 23, 2008 | Heating & Cooling

2 Answers

Loud Rattle and Leaking


If the unit has been working fine for a long time and then you suddenly have this issue, the angle you have the unit set at is probably fine, but you probably have a blockage of dirt/mud/sludge/whatever that is keeping it from draining properly. Here's what you have to do...

For safety... turn the unit OFF and UNPLUG IT.
Open the front gate and remove the air filter. Next, remove the entire front gate from the unit (probably at least one screw to remove first - mine was in the middle, just under wher the bottom of the air filter sits). With the gate removed you should have access to locate your blockage problem.

There is a hole that allows the water to drain from the front of the unit (the part that is inside your house) to the back of the unit (the part that hangs outside your house) and eventually out of a drain hole in the rear. Chances are that this hole is clogged. So, when the water fills up in the front drip tray it has no access to drain to the back. Consequently, the water builds up in the fan area which causes the rattling noise and the water being picked up by the fan and blown out of the vent. If left too long, it will overflow the front drip tray and make a mess in your house.

On my unit, the hole was on the far left side (if your are in your house and facing the AC unit) of the drip tray. You can use a piece of coathanger wire, or some other long thin instrument to push the blockage through to the rear. Once this pathway from the front of the unit to the back of the unit is clear, your problem should be solved. You will probably still get the sound and water sputter out of the front for a little while until the water that is in the fan area drains/dries out, but it should return to normal soon.

It is probably best to actually remove the unit from the window and take the cover off of it and really clean it out, but that is obviously a much more involved task. If you have a hose, that's fine and will help. Water won't hurt the unit - just keep it away from the electronics (the controls/display/cord). You should also be carful not to bend any of the tiny metal fins... that's just as bad as (actually worse than) being blocked by dirt/dust. And obviously, allow the unit to dry before you put the cover back on and put it back in your window and plug it in to run it. If you are willing to put in the extra time and effort, you can do a more thorough cleaning job, which would help to prevent the problem from happening again too soon. There's no way to prevent dirt/dust from building up in the unit. Once water/moisture is added to the mix, you're dealing with mud/sludge, which is going to eventually block that small drain path. The only solution is to clean it out once in a while.

I figured this out the hard way. I took the thing out of the window cleaned it (not as thoroughly as I thought) and put it back in and then did it all again. The third time I actually found the hole that was blocked. If it hadn't been such a pain taking it all apart and cleaning it the first two times I would have laughed at myself for missing it.

Good luck! Hope this helps!

Jun 12, 2007 | LG Electronic Window Air Conditioner

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