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Re: How to compare pumps
Contrary to the advice given when selecting a filter, a bigger pump is not always a good thing. Unless you have been advised by a pool professional, or someone in the know that your existing pump was undersized, it would be wise to keep the same horsepower as you have now.
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I don't know the answer. Whether it fits or not is of much less importance than if the same pump is used on both engines and in that case you will have the right pump for your engine rather than merely one that fits.
Comparing pumps visually is of little help as manufacturers often use the same basic casting for different applications using different internal specifications.
The only alternative to careful measuring of the pump internals is to ask the (friendly) dealer or an engine parts supplier.
You should hear the pump in the gas tank turn on for 2 seconds when you turn the key to on, not start. A buzz or hum from the tank area? If yes, the pump is supposed to put enough pressure in the line to the engine and the injectors for the car to start. Maybe not enough pressure if it won't start. Change the fuel filter and try again. If no help, maybe a weak, tired pump. You will need the fuel pressure checked to compare to specs for your model . Autozone and others rent or loan fuel pressure testers.
If no noise from the pump, check the fuel pump fuse, under the hood in the power distribution center or fuse/relay box. In that same place is the fuel pump relay. Locate the pump relay from a diagram on the fuse/relay cover. Hold your finger lightly on this pump relay while someone cycles the ignition key from off to on. If the pump circuit is working right, you should feel the relay click. That should send power to the fuel pump to turn it on for that 2 second period. If you feel it click and the fuse is good, possibly the pump or the pump's ground wire is faulty. If you don't feel the relay click with key turned to on, the fuel pump circuit will have to be diagnosed. Good luck with your project. Let me know how you progress.
Water pumps inside have a diaphragm and they wear out. Then air will get through and cause pump to run, but not ****, like a hose not far enough in water to be air tight to **** water. Most likely diaphragm needs replacing. Some places can rebuild it, but check on new one to replace it. Sometimes better to just replace whole pump. Compare cost of replacement or rebuild kit. Thanks , mike . Please let me know!
raise the hood on your car, and look at the manufacturers engine decal, this will tell you what size of engine that you have, then you can compare the information about the fuel pump that you had put in, this way , it will tell you if the pump is right for your car.
It all depends if the pump motor is designed to use this type of controller. If it is then ok.
I have see no advantage to these system and some disadvantages. Money, servicing and just in general more stuff to go wrong.
You make the call on this but make sure the pump motor is right for the controller.
Hi, if you are planning to change this system out, please stay with a gas fired central system as compared to a heat pump, they are much more cost effective. Heat-pumps have so many problems as there are more parts on them to go wrong. The compressor and condenser fan motor run year around as with a heat-pump they use what is called a reversing valve that changes the flow of freon making the indoor coil the outdoor coil and the same with the outdoor coil becomes the indoor coil in the winter season. I can recommend excellent gas fired units compared to the Brivis unit you have that is much more cost effective, such as the Bryant, Carrier, Goodman. I would go with a Bryant and talk to a dealer. Stay away from a heat-pump no matter what they tell you as I have worked on them for many years and if you have gas available, stay with gas. You will heat your home much faster and save on electricity as this heat -pump units need heat strips for back up heat as they can't keep up the temperature with out them. I hope I have been of help to you on this, and you will be kind when rating me as I know you will. Please contact a Bryant dealer as you will not regret it. Sincerely, Shastalaker7 A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor.
since changing the pump makes a difference even for a short time, I believe you are on the right track with that. What you need to do is determine why after changing the pump the problem re-appears. What you need to do is check the fuel pressure at the throttle body, comparing "new" pressure to pressure from a non-working pump. You also need to check voltage at the pump to see if it changes. It may help to put an additional ground wire spliced into the existing one back at the pump harness...a poor ground will cause the pump to overheat and fail. I assume that when you changed the pump you completely drained the tank and cleaned it out so there is no issue there? Changing the pump will not change the operation of engine controls so I don't see a connection there. Pressure regulator may be an issue, but most fail to the "rich" side and you would know that right away...changing the pump would actually make that worse, not better. So, that leaves testing to find out the why of it.
check your fuel pump fuse on fuse box panel it was located driver seat left side on dash board or on right side of engine fuse box,pull out cover cover, on the backside cover there is specified fuse find fuel pump fuse replace if busted.how could you know if busted on fuse there is thin wire serve as connection if this was cut off inside means it was busted,on compare to other fuse the wire inside fuse.if good check your relay fuel pump relay located beside steering rod under the dash board, it might be defective also.have a nice day rate my fix thanks a lot.