An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 500 times.
Re: Drive systems difference
Magnetic Drive: In a magnetic-drive pump, an electrical charge creates a magnetic field that causes the magnet on the impeller to rotate and pump water. Magnetic drive pumps are completely sealed and do not require lubrication. Because they do not contain oil, magnetic drive pumps are safer for ponds with fish as oil leaks do not occur. This type of pump does not generate high head heights, meaning it is unable to lift pond water vertically, which you might need to supply water to a fountain.
Work best in cleaner environments with little or no debris Highly efficient, cost-effective operation Since they have no seals to wear out, they require little maintenance Occasionally clean the impeller and its chamber to ensure efficient operation
Direct Drive: Direct-drive pumps have an enclosed motor that is powered by electricity, which turns the impeller shaft. Direct-drive pumps achieve significant head height so they tend to work well for fountains or waterfalls. Some models seal the motor in an oil-filled shell with seals around the cord and impeller shaft. These are risky to use if you have a pond stocked with fish as there is an ever-present danger of water contamination if a leak occurs. Many newer pumps, however, feature alternative lubrication over oil that is safe for fish. Look for oil-free models if you house fish or other aquatic life in your water garden.
Typically more expensive to operate Ideal pump type for fountains or other accessories Pushes water rather than pulling it Not easily repaired by the user
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Chances are you broke something and hopefully not in the motor. I would use an atv lift and raise the wheels off the ground with the bike in neutral and try to rotate each tire in both directions to get my first clues. If 4X2, then the front tires should be free to rotate and your focus is only on the rear wheels. Both wheels should be locked together and neither rotate differently. If 4X4, then all 4 wheels may be engaged and locked, depending on the nature of the quad if on-demand or not. Next, you may need to disconnect the drive shafts from the transfer case to determine if front and rear cases are each freely rotating. I once busted a drive shaft on my 4X4 polaris and removed it in the field using a phillips head screwdriver to knock out the roller pin so I could pull the splined end out. This freed up the other side to power me out of the woods.
Point is, disconnecting one drive isolates the other side in case it help pin point the issue as outside the motor. Let me know how you do.
Addressing these one at a time: Assuming you have bought to service manual.
1) loud clanking is never good, whether speeding up or slowing down.
Check the oil level. Put the quad on an atv lift and rotate all the tires and look for any obvious defective drive equip, friction (something not moving right) or tire rubbing when you turn the handle bars. Use great care if you try running the motor and wheels on a lift and keep the rpm low. [In fact don't do this if you don't have the right lift and skills] The motor is attached to the bike via belt drives etc and you may need to disconnect the motor from the drives to see if its the motor clanking. At least disconnect the rear drive if you keep it in 2wd. Try to figure if a clutch or belt drive or something is off or dragging.
2) Hot exhaust: check cooling - this is an antifreeze - radiator system. If you are running it without cooling it will run hot, and probably break something in the engine causing a loud clanking noise. Otherwise, engine breaking is occurring from something pulling or putting constant friction on the motor.
3) An EBS system that is very robust. Putting all together, Something is dragging, sticking and hopefully it's not in the engine. If 1 and 2 didn't discover the problem, then you should take it to a dealer and have them service it, unless you are really, really good mechanic and wish to do a motor job.
More than likely your problem is electrical as the front wheel drive is engaged electrically.There may be a fuse within that system but if not check the switch first.usually the biggest problems have the simplest solutions : )!!
First off you are correct in the front to rear ratio has to be the same as stock.But some brands of tires run different.I would measure the new one to be sure the front are actually 1in taller than the rear. Also check or change your hub fluid.Also check clearance on the inside front(shouldnt be a problem) I have run 8in wide Titan 489s on the front and they worked fine.What brand and style did you get?