I agree with Tina. In addition I have some further information. this refers to conventional and HVLP spray guns (NOT electrostatic equipment)
Needs the air cap also cleaning? Yes,it does. Remove the air cap (sometimes called air nozzle) from thegun and immerse in solvent, use a brush. For the small holes use atooth picker or something soft enough (not a wire or other metals).Use compressed air to dry. The same procedure with fluid nozzle andfluid needle. Don't forget to lubricate the gun afterwards with anormally non-silicone grease (check your manual for confirmation). The cleaning of the gun is not a bigissue. But the cleaning and maintenance of the spray system (tank,hoses, etc...) needs some “techniques”
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Let me start by saying these types of paint sprayers are not usually recommended for painting large things like room walls because you're going to spend a lot of time refilling the paint cup. The cup only holds 20 ounces of paint and that won't go very far on your walls. If all your paint isn't mixed and properly thinned at the same time your walls could end up with a checker board look. You would usually be way further ahead to rent an airless paint sprayer. If you have to use it; first run your paint through a paint strainer, avaliable at any paint or box store (The Home Deopt, Lowes, etc). Even new paint has impurities that will clog paint guns. It's highly recommended you mix in a paint conditioner like Flotrol but not absolutely necessary. Next, you're going to have to experiment with the consistency of the paint to get a good even flow out of the gun. The thinner you have to make the paint to get a good flow, the lighter and more coats you're going to have to apply. It's also recommended to run a paint soaked roller over the wall right after you spray it to even out the paint and remove any overlap marks.
the nozzle should last as long as it is cleaned properly when the day is finished. Walmart sells Campbell equipment and/or many hardware stores do as well, the tip may not need to be specifc to your brand to fit, take the tip with you when go shopping. Also, check with your Cities maintenance department and find out where they buy there tools and parts, most likely you will find the parts you need there.
Have a look at the instruction manual. It should state the viscosity that the paint should have. Use a viscosity cup to measure the time the paint takes to drain from the viscosity cup. Dilute the paint if it takes too long.
Maybe just plugged. If it has the nozzle that can be rotated 180 degrees, roll it and try to spray. Sometimes a bit of debris gets in there and stops it up. If no on the rotatable nozzle, take the tip off and try to push liquid back to the container, or a waste bucket, to clear the line. You also may need to clean the tip. One last item.....since you sprayed water.....if you chased the water with the TWS, you may have made an emulsion. If so, remove the spray gun, and turn on the pump, pumping into a waste container, until the emulsion is displaced. Clean the gun. I'd say that if it'll spray water, TWS would be even easier.
i dont have so much as a solution as a couple of things you can try to figure out whats going wrong.
make sure your compressor can handle 10.5 CFM @ 50psi
hook up the gun and dry spray it to check for blockages in the air supply
if the air comes through strong and constant, fill the paint hopper with water and spray until empty
if the water comes through constant, add half of the hopper with paint thinned with penetrol or floetrol
if the paint is coming out weak or spotty, make sure the vent cap is open on the paint hopper
if the cap on the hopper doesnt have a vent, try spraying with the cap off or cracked a bit.
if that doesnt work take off the hopper and check the filter for blockages.
i suggest straining all your paint before pouring it into the hopper
hey do not see any answers so here you go -First I am not an apprentice on this matter- I spray cars as a hobbie- controls can be determined this way-follow these steps look at the trigger typically the needle that is lowest on the handle will be the air -top most will be paint.Paint will be adjusted by feel- the air is easy to adjust-back the knob off all the way- hold trigger on fully depressed(without being hooked to air) turn knob until you feel it touch trigger-stop- this is now adjusted.
I do recommend you lose the syphon system -gravity will sevre you better- you will use less paint and it is better for enviroment.
Go to web site for new book- best of luck -I will watch for you- what are you trying to paint?
For the most efficient use of the gun, always make a careful check that all parts are the proper size and type, and are in perfect working order before operating. The following items can serve as a checklist:
Manifolds and Regulators: The CFM capacity should be at least one and one half (1.5) times the total capacity required by the equipment. A separate regulator should control the atomizing air and all gauges should be readable and in good working condition.
Moisture and Oil Traps: In order to assure the least amount of contamination of the Gel coat, moisture and oil traps should be installed and drained daily (minimum) on all air lines at the spray booth. Traps must be installed on the lines at least 25 feet away from the air compressor.
Quick Disconnects: Quick disconnects are not recommended for airless or high pressure systems, and may reduce the volume of air and fluids passing through them. If they are used, they should be the largest size available.
Hoses: Hoses are used only for delivering air from a regulator on a main air line and fluids from the fluid pump to the gun. The standard hose length is 25 feet and should never exceed 50 feet. Hose capacity should match the volume delivery and pressure demanded by the gun when the trigger is pulled. Hoses must be capable of delivering the material at the volume and pressure rates dictated by the gun. There will always be a pressure drop from one end of the hose to the other.