It has to be the jointer first. A planer places force down on a board as it is going through the cutter head. This means a board with a cup or twist will be flattened, cut and then will spring back to its original shape. You need a jointed face before a planer can make another side truly parallel.
Old school woodworkers will always take a piece of rough-sawed wood and flatten one side, rotate it 90 degrees, and put a square flattened edge on it using the jointer fence to keep it orientated. Next run the other 2 sides through a planer for a fairly straight and true 4 sided piece when making furniture. This does not always work perfectly because wood will sometimes warp/twist/bow during planing due to changing tensions as wood fibers are removed.
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Re: Planer or Jointer
If I had to pick, I would get the planer first. That way you can at least get your lumber pretty darn close to flat and parallel. Furthermore you can resize your lumber when necessary. But that’s just my opinion.
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I assume you mean that the two tables are not in parallel planes. No, I don't think adjusting the gibs is going to buy you anything unless they are so loose that the tables don't seat flat on the ways. If this is a very old jointer, and the ways are worn so they are no longer flat, then might have to regrind them - but that would be difficult. I would measure the amount of "out of parallel" that the tables are at different depth setting after tightening the gibs so that the tables are just a little harder to move. If they are out of paralell by the same amount at different table heights, then I would put the whole jointer (not the base of course) on a surface grinder and grind both table tops. Of course you would need a pretty big surface grinder, depending on the size of your jointer. Good luck!
The majority of jointers even cheap chinese imports have 3" or 4" hand cranks for both infeed and outfeed adjustments. The gibs can usually be adjusted when needed even on cheap jointer planers.
The rigid website has a support page and product parts and manual download.
If the download doesnt work call them and insist that they e-mail or mail a paper copy.
Most jointer planers are somewhat similiar in design and appearance.
Some power tool instruction manuals from competitors may have more complete step by step instructions.
Your intake side of the jointer is not high enough. You can run a test using tape to see. Hope this helps. Remember to vote if it helps. Thanks. Here is the link to a youtube video that will explain it. Its called Dealing with snipe on a planer / jointer / thicknesser
A jointer has 2 uses. 1. it is used to make the edges of boards straight. If you look down the edge of any board, you will see that they are not straight. This is called a crown. by feeding the board threw the jointer, you will take the high ends down to make the board straight. This is necessary, excuse the spelling, for glue ups.
2. It is also used to flatten out a board. Same as the edge, the face could have a cup. By sending the face through the machine, this will make the board flat. Then you send it through the thickness planer to make the board symetrically even.
You can use the jointer to make rabbets also, but there are other machine that will do the job better and faster, such as a router or a table saw, with or with out a dado blade.