A ppossible solution would be to rip the 16 inch board into 4ea 4" strips or any combination so they don't exceed the 6" jointer. Then flatten one face on each board, joint the edges and then glue it back up to be a wide board again.
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Re: Jointers How does it work?
If stock doesn't fit on a stationary machine jointer, then you might consider hand planing. I know that this ideas sounds intimidating, but there is sometimes a time when hand tools can make quick work of things. Truing up large stock is one of those instances - especially in cases where this is wind or twist in stock. Stationary planers won't fix this without jigs, and most jointers can't handle larger stock.
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The most important part of the jointer is that the cutting edge is perfectly level with the out feed table, then, bring up the infeed table, with straight edge on rear, make all adj necessary to get these things lined up flat, not level, but flat, straight, even. Then it will cut perfectly flat and even. no snipes,. Hope this helps.
Lower the in feed table to keep it clear of your work, hold a straight edge on the out feed table, both sides, adj the knives to just touch the straight edge, both sides the same, all knives set the same, should work like a charm, do not answer the phone while you are doing this. check all jib screws twice to make sure they are tight. Hope this helps.
go to Dewaltservicenet.com and with your model number you can download a schematic for this tool and also order the parts online. I tried finding them but there are too many jointers listed in the Delta category.
While the final effects of a stone or concrete wall are stunning, the work to make it beautiful is time-consuming and difficult. Tools are very important in masonry work. Having the right tools for a certain job make all the difference. Jointers come in many different sizes and shapes. Learn the various types and how to use them and you can make quick work of a difficult task. Use an e-jointer for narrower spaces between the stones. There is no handle on the e-jointer, making it easier to smooth and shape the joints between the stones. Whenever your hand is closer to the surface, you can exert more control. Get a bead jointer for raised masonry bricks. These jointers come in two sizes, 1/4-inch by 5/16-inch and 3/8-inch by 1/2-inch. They are small, strong, simple tools that can chip off the excess of a joint that is sticking up off the brink. You do not want to make a deep joint between raised bricks. Change your joint tool to a brick masonry mortar joint raker tool if you are making your project from rougher materials, such as adobe brick or split stone. This tool has many more grooves, which will fit in various sized joints. Turn it on the end for narrow joints and use the curved notch for more intricate patterns between the stones. Switch to a grapevine mortar jointer for very clean lines between the bricks. This tool is used primarily for a colonial look, which is even and measured. Your can get this jointer with a wooden handle for a more even grip.
If I had to pick, I would get the planer first. That way you can at least get your lumber pretty darn close to flat and parallel. Furthermore you can resize your lumber when necessary. But that’s just my opinion.
a jointer includes infeed and outfeed tables. A set of rotating blades is positioned between these two blades. A fence is set on one side of the jointer to serve as a guide. The infeed table and outfeed table are adjusted so that they are parallel, but the infeed table is slightly lower thereby exposing a small amount of the cutting blades. The woodworker then presses the lumber against the infeed table and pushes it onto the outfeed table; the rapidly spinning blades remove a small amount of material. If the wood is particularly warped, several passes on the jointer may be required.