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Re: Heat Guns Troubleshooting
Uses for the heat gun include:
* drying paint or varnish - 30 to 130 °C - care has to be taken as dust particles may be blown onto the paint/varnish.
* drying out damp wood (before filling or painting) - around 100 to 200°C.
* softening adhesive (such as when applying worktop edge trim or lifting floor tiles) - 300 to 400°C.
* bending plastic pipes - 200 to 300°C.
* heat-shrinking plastic film - 200 to 300°C.
* welding some plastics - 330 to 400°C.
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I have 4 dead MW heat guns with the same problem. The most common problem is a blown fuse in the heating element assembly which prevents the circuit from being completed. It is attached inline with the Red wire. Test the fuse with an Ohm meter, then use a jumper cable to temporarily jump the fuse. The fan and heater should then work. Replace the fuse and you will have a working heat gun
With out the thing plugged in with an OHM meter the heting element can be checked with the nose removed. Most of the time once the nose is removed the problem is easy to see the end is burnt off the element connection. Remake the connection reinstall the nose and test. The heating element runns right off the switch and the connection there is easy to see with the handle opened. This is simple unit and wires burnt off from being too hot is almost always the problem. look it over carfully and the problem will be seen.
I think Bosch have one that you can set the temp to , i have had many heat guns over the years and the two best ones are Wagner And Bosch i have bought cheaper models like ryobi before and they just dont last , with regards to a heat setting i wouldnt worry too much because unless you can maintain the exact distance between yourself and the object while heating it then you cant maintain an exact temperature on the object you are trying to heat up , you would have to put the heat gun in a clamp and put the object at a certain distance away from it to guarantee a certain amount of heat . hope this will help you and i would probably not listen too much to the salesman
As such a simple tool, there are not many differences between one model of heat gun and another - but there are some features which are important.
* Wattage - commonly from 1000W to 2000W (a measure of the power of the gun). Providing that there are heat and/or airflow controls, the higher the wattage, the better.
* Main control switch - usually mounted on the front of the pistol grip, and normally a 'dead man' switch so that power is switched off when the finger pressure is removed - an ideal safety feature as the heat gun stops if it is accidentally dropped.
* Temperature setting - at least 500°C is needed for stripping paint - the lower the bottom end of the range the more useful. A choice of controls make the tool more useful.
* Airflow setting - having variable or more than one speed makes the tool more versatile.
* Thermal cut out - this will switch off the tool if it becomes overheated. If this occurs, it indicates a fault in the tool or method of use - for safety, the fault must be identified and corrected before the heat gun is again used.
* Flex length - lengths of 2.5 to 3 m are normally fitted, this means that when using an extension lead, the tool can be used at the full reach without having the socket hanging in mid air.
* Hanging hook - useful for storing the tool.
* Surface stand - this enables the heat gun to be safety 'rested' during pauses in the work and after uses. It also allows the gun to be used 'hands-free' when two hands are required on the work piece (such as when bending a plastic pipe).
* Nozzles - most heat guns have a range of nozzles that can be fitted for specific uses, generally these need to be purchased separately. The main types of nozzles are: 1. Reducer nozzle - when you want to concentrate the heat onto a specific area.
2. Reflector nozzle - wraps round a plastic or copper pipe to spread the heat around the pipe surface.
3. Flat nozzle - for spreading the hot air over a wider narrower area.
4. Glass protector nozzle - for use when stripping paint on a window to keep the direct heat off the glass.
Heat guns look a lot like hair dryers - but, as many instructions thoughtfully point out, should never be used for drying hair! The method of operation of a hot air gun is similar to a hair dryer: a fan pulls air into the body of the tool and drives it across an electric heating element and out through a nozzle.
For stripping paint, the heated air is directed onto the painted surface, causing it to soften so that it can be easily stripped off - either by using a stripping knife or hook. For best results it is best to work up the surface with the heat gun above the stripping tool, softening the paint just before the stripping tool reaches it. The tool is used one-handed, with the other hand to hold the stripping tool.
Some heat guns can be used sitting on a bench so that two hands are free to use the hot air for other applications.