Model# 315.171010.My saw has very little power and binds up when trying to cut through thick stock like a 4"x4"
Remove BLADE! I'm not going to tell you when to unplug and plug the thing; If you don't know, you don't have enough to work on it in the first place.
Quick check: Is there a speed control? Is the cord damaged? You said different outlets, but did you try different circuits? Is the shaft straight?
Is your blade sharp and straight ?
Several things can effect an electric motor speed and power: voltage, amperage, phase, resistance- both electrical and physical.
If you are using a extension cord it must be at least a #14 up to 100'. The resistance causes a voltage drop. If you are going past 100' you need #12. I have a 50' #12 and some 25' #10 to go farther than 100'. I use a generator if I'm going to be past 150' for anything more than a few cuts. This holds true for any power tool. The only thing to use those #16 extension cords for is lights, 1000 watts @ 50', ? 5oo watts @ 100'. For more info go to your local electric supply house and get an "Ugly's" reference book.
First clean the saw thoroughly, blow all the dirt from around the shaft and CAREFULLY inspect the saw. Is the shaft straight? Are the bushings tight (too tight)? Can you work the shaft thought its motion by hand? Try spraying into the trigger with contact cleaner while working it. Then try it again.
Open the housing and inspect carefully. can you turn the motor with you finger? Does the trigger move correctly, check all connections. Observe the wires look for "skinny" spots that might indicate an internal defect or melted insulation. Look at the ends, check the attachments and make sure there are no broken strands. Gently pull on the connections. Look for out of place motions. Measure the voltages at all locations. Measure going into the switch then with the switch full on. You can measure the resistance through the switch ((unplugged) dang, I said I wasn't going to do that.) It should be zero or just a few ohms.
Switch - to check bypass it with a jumper wire it will run at full speed, so hang on to the saw. If it runs, spray it with contact cleaner. Fixed? No? Replace switch...
Pull back the brushes to check that they are freely moving, check for completeness, Are they making proper contact with the armature? Are they in the correct place? Normally Brushes are a go/no-go problem but I have seen some anomalies.
Can you spin the motor with your finger? It should be fairly easy to move.
If you don't find the problem here You may well need to take it further apart. Take lots of pictures of where and how things fit Before you start. Go to the dollar store. (I use Dollar General) buy at least 5 ( 10 is better) colors of nail polish. Put a dot on screws and a dot in the hole it came from. I only mark the screws from sets that have differing sizes. e.g. If the housing screws are not all the same size I'll mark the different ones and the holes they came from and put them all in one pile. In some cases there are lots of screws the same size or close enough to confuse and not notice until you have it 'mostly' back together. Then I mark sets with one color and the different ones in the set with two colors. (E.G. all housing screws yellow, odd ones yellow with red dot.)
You may think that's a bother but the first time you knock over a container or have a delay (like waiting for parts) you will thank me for the idea..
Long winded but wanted to go through all the steps I would. I hope it helps. Feel free to email me, I'll tell you how to check the armature but they usually cost more than the saw is worth. You can also find bearing online pretty cheap.
Jun 12, 2015 |
Craftsman Reciprocating Saws