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Porcelain tile has to be cut painstakingly slow, especially the last inch or two to prevent the splitting problem you are having. When you are cutting tile, the sawblade rides up just a little as the tile is being fed into it. You'll notice it if you stop pushing the tile through and watch the head drop down just a bit. When you are getting to the last part of the cut, reduce the pressure you are using to push the tile into the blade so the blade can wear away the tile with little pressure and vibration as possible.
The first thing you should check is the GFCI switch on the power cord. All tile saws have one because of the water involved with cutting tile. It should have a test and reset button on it, press the reset button to get power to the saw motor. Some bigger saws also have a reset button on the motor itself for overload issues. Check for that if the GFCI reset doesn't work.
Its either the speed of the blade ( mine came with its speed at half rate), or its the crappy blade they give you with the saw. If a cut is bowing your blade is having a tough time with material. This often happens with tough porcelain tiles and not using a porcelain blade.
Hi, I just went to that site you posted, I don't know what saw you were looking to buy, the saws looked like good quality, BUT they all looked very overpriced. Ive been doing tile since 1984 and have owned, mk,target, felker, pearl, tile saws. everyone of these saws have a 10 inch blade and are very very good for a thousand dollars you can get these saws with saw stand,blade all the gauges ready to cut.the pearl saw \pearl abrasive co.\vx 10.2xl has a 1 1\2 hp motorweights 83 pounds and cut a 2 foot by 2 foot tile or a 18x18 diagonally,great saw,the mk, target and felker have saws that will cut the same size of tile but are bulky in size.if i was you go ask tile setters at a tile store, before you buy a saw.good luck Chad
i know blades on tile saws don't have to be super tight, i'm not familar with that kind of saw, i put a wrench on the nut and hold on to the blade with my hand and hit the wrench with a rubber mallet, and of course have the unit unplugged
Mass produced ceramic tiles of medium to soft grades are cut easily with hand tools. The glazed surface of the tile is first scored with a tool that carries a hardened metal wheel. Then with a support directly under the score pressure is applied to either side of the cut and the tile snaps along the score. The harder grades of ceramic tiles like fully vitrified porcelain tiles, stone tiles, and some clay tiles with textured surfaces have to be cut with a diamond blade.
To cut a tile using a wet tile saw, measure the exact space in which the tile will fit. Cuts are usually along a perimeter, in a corner, or around an electrical outlet. Mark the line on the full-sized tile in grease pencil. Most saws will accommodate tiles up to 12 inches (30 cm) in size, but oversized saws can be rented for huge floor tiles. Wearing safety glasses, place the tile on the moveable platform, and line up the mark with the edge of the saw. With the motor running, slide the platform toward the blade with an even but gentle pressure. Since you are grinding the tile apart, ensure that the water have sufficient time to cool everything.
Since tiles are so thick, brittle, and made of ceramic, a special saw must be used. An ordinary circular saw for wood or metal would either break the tile or get so hot that it would seize up and stop cutting. However, ceramic tile is not cut well with sharp blades. The wet tile saw was invented to address all these unique properties of ceramic. It doesn't overheat, uses a relatively dull blade with no serrations, and can be transported to a job site and set up on top of an existing table or sawhorses.