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Re: heated or ubheated water?
Most pressure washers spray unheated water which is fine for most applications. However if you need to remove very heavy grease then you may need to have to opt for a Hot Water Pressure Washer, utilizing either a propane or diesel burner. The downside is that you should expect to pay a lot more for these. Also, the heater is an additional part that requires maintenance and care. Do not run heated water through cold water systems, since this can damage the pump O-rings and gaskets.
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Expansion tanks are used in wet or dry fire suppressions as well as other hydronic (heating/cooling) systems to compensate for temperature and pressure differentials (expansion/contraction) in the piping system and to maintain a constant pressure in the system. As liquids heat and cool they will expand or contract. The pressure switch you describe is usually connected to an air compressor that will cycle on and off as needed to maintain the system pressure.
The expansion tank should never be completely filled because liquids are not compressible and can cause excessive system pressurization and subsequent malfunctions or rupture of components (water hammer) or pump seals. Some expansion are equipped with "site glasses" so the water level in the expansion tank can be observed and monitored.
The thermal relief valve is a valve that opens when the water inside your pump gets too hot. When you are not pulling the trigger on your gun, the water is circulating inside the pump. After a little while the water starts getting hot from the friction of the moving parts. When the water gets too hot, the heat starts to damage the water seals. What a thermal relief valve does is, at about 145 degrees it opens up dumping the water inside the pump on the ground. As the water pours out, new cool water flows in from the garden hose, cooling off the pump. I personally recommend a thermal relief valve to everyone I sell pumps to. Not all pumps come with a thermal relief valve. For the price (between 10 and 15 dollars) they will save you a lot more than they cost.
i'm sorry to say but if you happen to have a vertical motor you'll be better off buying a new pump for 150.00 online.if you see the casing is made of pot metal which corrodes from the impurities of water mainly chlorine.stay away from pressure washers that have a shaft downward like a lawn mower they much like consumer use only for residential 1 to 3 times a year.find one with a horizontal shaft where you can have a much better chance of getting it fix or get replaceable parts for.feel free to question me i've been in this business for 30 years. ps a replacement pump with a solid brass head would be better the main killer to these pumps is that they leave the unit running with trigger closed which causes pump tp rapidly heat up and cause failure you must squeeze trigger within 3 to 4 minutes tops so that the heated water in pump head has been released.
The manufacturers do not recommend more than 120deg inlet temp. Overheating is a comon and serious problem for these high RPM direct drive pumps. Heat builds whenever the trigger gun is not pulled. Some pumps have special "hot pack" kits available, but even that maxs out at 160deg. Most real washers made for hot water, heat the water after the pump, not before. Special separate Hot Boxes are available for 2k or so.
Check heating element to see if its continuous, a ohms meter helps here, if open replace, as for water pressure depending on you faucet pressure, if its not the same thers a blockage...pressure wands are suceptible to as much as a gain o salt, so thouroughly clean with needles, wires or pressure(air) backwards...nozzles and all fitments!
check to see how hot the water can be, ti should be on the unit or in your book. also your amps should be no less than 15amp, long core can over heat the motor. if your unit can't handle hot water it will melt the valves