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Re: Drill Motor Reliablity
Some models have external brushes for easy changing - when the brushes wear down you can easily change them for new ones, some models have this feature ,it is only of use if you are using your cordless drill on a daily basis.
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<span><span>The power switch may not be the problem if a cordless drill stops turning on. Sometimes a bad drill motor can prevent the tool from starting, even if the switch is good. </span></span><br /><span><span>To determine the problem, the best method is to remove the switch and then hot-wire the drill motor to the drill's rechargeable battery to test it. If the motor checks out, then it's probably the switch. </span></span><br /><span><span>The steps for testing a drill motor .</span></span><br /><span><span>In addition to tools needed for dismantling the cordless drill, such as a drill/driver, <b>two</b><b> wires</b> are needed to connect the motor wires to the drill battery. </span></span><br /><br /><span><span><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><b><a></a></b></span>Hot-Wire Test a Drill Motor</b></span></span><br /><span><span><span style="text-decoration: underline;"><b><br /></b></span></span></span><br /><p><span><span>1. Remove the drill's battery and dismantle the drill.</span></span><br /><p><span><span>2. Disconnect the wires leading from the switch to the drill motor. Sometimes this means completely removing the switch. </span></span><br /><p><br /><p><span>3. Now that the motor is isolated from the switch, <b>connect </b>one of the <b>motor </b>wires <b>to </b>one of the <b>battery </b>contacts <b>using one of the two wires</b> set aside for this test.</span><br /><p><br /><p><span><span>4. <b>Connect </b>the <b>second wire </b>to the other battery contact. </span></span><br /><p><span><span>(<b><i>Note:</i></b> It does not matter which motor wire is connected to which battery contact. The orientation is not important because it is a DC motor and will only determine which direction the motor spins.)</span></span><br /><p><span><span>5. Hold the motor firmly in one hand, and then <b>complete </b>the electrical <b>circuit </b>between the battery and the motor by connecting the second wire to the the second motor wire.</span></span><br /><p><span><span><b>If</b> the <b>motor does <i>not</i> spin</b> once the second connection is made, <b>then the drill motor</b> <b>is most likely fried</b> and needs to be replaced. </span></span><br /><p><span><span>If the motor <b><i>does </i>spin </b>after completing the electrical circuit, that's a good indication that <b>the motor is</b> a <b>healthy </b>one. If the motor tests out OK but the drill is still having trouble starting up, the problem is most <b>likely </b>caused by <b>a faulty power switch</b>, not the motor.</span></span><br /><p><br /><span><br /> </span><br /><span><span>The power switch will have to be reconnected to the drill after the motor has been tested. It is important to reinstall the switch wires correctly after performing this test. </span></span><br /><span><span>The example drill used in this article has a very simple wiring configuration in its power switch. Drawing a switch wiring diagram is especially useful for switches with complicated wiring configurations.</span></span><br /><br /><span><span>If you're testing your drill's motor, chances are that some kind of part replacement is on the horizon. </span></span><span><span></span></span>
the heat has seized the motor or plastic gears im leaning more towards the motor disassemble the drill and take a look all the parts pretty much stay in place see if
you can turn the motor by hand if it wont turn use some 3n1 oil on each end of the
motor that shooed do the trick
The torque settings on a drill will stop the drill from driving the screw ( or what ever you are tightening ) when it reaches a specific "tightness" . For example; the setting "1" will only tighten a screw a very little bit, while " 14 " will tightten the heck out of it.
Note: once the screw has reached it's specific torque ( or tightness ) the drill motor will continue to turn but it will disengage the driver, making a kind of grinding sound,it's perfectly normal so don't be alarmed.
When an AC motor is stalled, very high currents pass through the motor windings and melt the insulation on the windings; the smoke was the result of the motor winding insulation being melted. This causes a reduction in motor torque and premature failure.
You should suggest that your neighbor buy you a new drill and he keep the one that he ruined.
Not usually, the parts and labor come very close to the replacement cost. If you own an older model and have a lot of money invested into spare batteries, many of which are new, and the batteries won't fit a newer model; then you owe it to yourself to contact a service center and get a quote.
This is not true if the drill is under warranty. The cost in that case is the shipping and handling if required by the manufacturer.