Vent Pipe Question

Generally 40 feet for ordinary atmospheric-vented household water heater...
Straight run to roof.
Atmospheric means no power vent... just hot air drafting upwards
Google search: gas vent height code

Atmospheric venting code depends on 4 basic factors:
Diameter of vent--- bigger vent, more draft
How many water heaters are connected to same vent
BTU per hour rating of water heater-- the more gas that is burned per hour, the bigger the vent needs to be
How straight the pipe is -- are there any horizontal or lateral runs
http://www.ameri-vent.com/files/assets/files/1366372183_Sizing26ApplicationGuide1.pdf

http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Bosch_Checking_the_draft.pdf
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/checking-the-draft2.pdf

Other factors can include
-wind conditions... higher wind across top of vent pipe on roof can reduce draft, and cause downdraft that blows deadly CO into same room as water heater
-vent termination near high walls, trees, high roof peak etc will reduce draft or cause downdraft
-amount of incoming air supply... if water heater is inside a closed room, then there is no air to draft up the pipe, burner will shut down or burn lazy yellow instead of clear blue
-stuff piled up around water heater that obstructs air intake
-dirty air intake screen that reduces air intake
-vent fans inside same room as water heater that pull air down the vent and cause reduction in water heater draft
-generally elbows reduce draft by 10%
-vent cannot terminate near any window door or air intake for another gas appliance
-bird build nest on top of vent pipe after vent termination falls off
-highly acidic gas by-product causes large amount of condensation inside pipe that burns hole in pipe or drips down and damages combustion parts...blower and inline condensate trap and drain might be required
-multiple water heaters installed on same vent line.

Gene
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If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

most likely that it is a old drain pipe as some plumbers used copper for that purpose. if it is a drain all u have to do is cap it. if it turns out to be a vent pipe u can install a end of the line vent cap. I cant remember what it is called but your supply store will know. just tell them u want to install a vent under the sink not through the roof.

Check the vent pipe, air must flow in and out of the vent pipe at all times. The vent pipe must be an 1 1/2" pipe coming off the top of the pump casing and vented outside the house, to the open air. Do not use a cheater vent, studdor vent or mechanical vents as they are not recommended to be used, they only allow air to flow one way.

It the opening on the stove is on top of the stove, it's a 'B' vent. If the opening is in the back of the stove it's a "Direct Vent". However, some models have a connection on the back that's facing up,. A 90 degree elbow can be used to convert it to a horizontal run to enter an existing chimney, but then it must elbow up to connect to the pipe that is required to line the chimney. You should not just stop the pipe above the damper. It needs to run all the way to the top of the chimney, then have flashing seal the chimney's clay liner and a termination cap on the top.

here is a link to the Owners Manual/Installation Instructions for a Model 2600. It installs the same way as the 2610. http://homeappliance.manualsonline.com/mdownloads/62b85343-a800-4898-85a1-3d6d3c524259.pdf

Hope this helps you sort things out and do a proper installation.

Generally, the furnace must be at least 90+ efficiency to be able to use PVC pipe. In addition, high efficiency gas furnaces require a condensation pump, to pump excess moisture out of the furnace. If yours has always been venting up a vent pipe, then NO, you can't use PVC pipe.

Hope this helps you.

Just for information ... whether you're doing it as a 'B' -Vent (Straight up) or a Direct Vent (Straight out the back), it requires an appropriately sized Coaxial Vent Pipe. A Coaxial Vent Pipe is a pipe within a pipe, That has an air space in between the inner and outer pipe. Of course it will also need the appropriate termination cover.

For for technical advice on proper venting go to http://www.valorfireplaces.com

If you have a Saniplus model then the vent connection is on the top right side of the pump casing if you are facing the toilet with pump sitting behind. The vent pipe needs to be minimum 1 1/2" and must be vented to the open air so air can flow in and out at all times. To the left side of the vent connection is the discharge pipe which should be a 3/4" or 1" discharge pipe. You can try disconnecting the vent pipe and run it with the vent pipe open, also you can disconnect the discharge pipe and put a bucket at the end of the discharge elbow and flush the toilet into the bucket, it will free flow into the bucket and there are no restrictions. That way you can tell if the problem is the pump or the installation set up.

Check the vent pipe, most of the Saniflo products require an 1 1/2" vent pipe vented to the open air for air flow purposes. Air must flow in and out of the vent pipe at all times.

Did you put an 1 1/2" vent pipe? It must be vented to the open air. Air must flow in and out of the vent pipe at all times so it can work properly. I had the same issue but after removing the cheater vent from the vent pipe it solved my problem. They do not recommend using an air admittance valve, cheater or mechanical vent on the vent pipe, as it only allows air to flow in or out.

The only thing is I think the vent pipe foe the tankless is smaller than 5".I think the one I install was a three inch.