WE HAD A POWER OUTAGE AND THEN WHEN THE POWER CAME BACK , MY REFRIGERATOR HAS NOT BEEN WORKING WELL .THE TEMPERATURE INSIDE THE FREEZER AND FRIDGE IT WAS RISING AND THE ICE CUBES JUST MELT. ANY SUGESTION WOULD BE HELPFUL, THANKS.
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Hello Wayne, thank you for allowing me to assist you. Was the freezer unplugged during the power outage? If
it was, here are some simple troubleshooting steps you need to take:
It is best to unplug the unit
and wait for the power to come back on.
Next, turn the control to off
(or digital display), plug the unit in and reset control to factory-suggested
Do not open freezer door
unnecessarily if freezer is off for several hours. Make sure the refrigerator
plug is tightly pushed into electrical outlet and not plugged into a GFI.
If your unit
has no power and it is not due to a power outage, check the following:
Verify that the temperature
control is set to the OFF position.
Set temperature controls to
proper setting suggested by your owner's guide; or set to the halfway point and
adjust it up or down as needed.
basic troubleshooting tips prove ineffective, the power loss may have possibly
caused a communication problem with the control board, temperature control or
wiring harness. At this point, I would recommend having a service technician to
diagnose the problem before investing in unnecessary parts.
Sir, To solve this problem, you must open the compressor area at the back bottom of the refrigerator and chek the temperature of the pressure line. If the temperature is between 55celcius to 60 than its ok. Or else you need to change the refrigerant. I suggest you to contact the service authority.
Assuming that both freezer and refrigerator temperatures have risen and the humming sound that you heard was followed by a sudden click more than likely the start device on the compressor has gone bad. This is a common problem with all Whirlpool refrigerators (KitchenAid is Whirlpools top of the line product and suffers the same problem).
Check and clean your fridge door seals as they may be dirty, have perished/not flexible or even crack. All doors should also close with a positive 'hermetic' feel: check and remove any obstruction. You can check the firmness of the seal round the door with a thin piece of plastic or cardboard wedge between the seal and door 'frame'. Hope it helps.
Experienced this problem with Evaporator coil icing up (coil is located inside back wall of the freezer compartment; the ice/frost was visibly blocking the series of louvers or slots along the bottom of the freezer back wall. I think the power outage caused partial melting of an already somewhat iced coil, but when the power was restored the water on the coil just froze solid. When these slots become obstructed the Refrigerator will not cool to its proper 36-40 deg.F temperature and the compressor motor runs frequently and the noise level is louder than usual. SOLUTION: fastest and safest way to Defrost this iced up coil is: (1) turn off 120V power / unplug refrigerator from the outlet; (2) remove all food to another refrigerator / freezer and take out ice cube tray & flip icemaker bail wire to its up (off) position - but leave top freezer basket in-place; (3) remove Bottom freezer basket (which should lift up and out; (4) move refrigerator away from wall - and carefully unscrew and remove white-painted, rectangular metal panel at bottom in the back....... you will see a white plastic water tray below a small fan with black plastic blades...... have a 3x5 cellulose sponge and bucket handy...... (5) open freezer door all the way and set a 21-inch box fan on the floor in the opening or area where the Bottom freezer basket was removed... put a single towel on floor under the box fan if there is significant frost on the bottom of the freezer compartment (there should not normally be any); (5) turn the fan to "Medium" speed with air flow pointing toward the freezer... you will be amazed at how much faster this works than pans of hot water or hair dryers (the latter is potentially damaging and dangerous); (6) with a flashlight you should soon see the water drip-drip-dripping from a spot at the center and bottom of the Evaporator coil - where it goes down a white tube and into the white plastic pan beneath the small fan you saw in Step #4; after awhile (maybe 20 minutes) check the white plastic tray in the back - which will be full of water (sponge it out)... continue defrosting with the 21-inch box fan... check the plastic tray again - and sponge out the excess water. A completely iced-up coil will probably fill the plastic tray three times. Eventually the water will stop dripping - which means the Evaporator coil is completely defrosted. There may be some water that gets onto the floor under the left side of the refrigerator which you will have to wipe up. Reattach the metal panel and reinstall the Bottom freezer basket and ice tray. This process takes long enough that you can clean the inside of the refrigerator while you're at it.
These areas are where the thermal break is made between the inside and outside temperatures to prevent humidity from condensing on the surfaces. They are called mullion heaters. If you have an energy saver switch turn it on and it will reduce the heating effect. If the temperatures on the inside of the refrigerator and freezer are elevated this will be noticed more so.