Worked flawlessly until one day on power-up, the 5M02659R chip U301in the power module exploded, melting off pins 1,2,3 of its DIP8 package. Where can I get the power module cheap to try if the rest of the unit is OK?
I don't know where you can get a replacement module, but this dvd player uses very standard voltages (3.3, 5, 12, etc). If you feel up to it you can power it up with a standard desktop ATX supply. It's just a matter of matching the proper wires. I do believe they are labelled in the player.
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Never put any fuse in it and switch ON. It has some short with internal circuit, and should be repaired before installing a new fuse. The fuse use is as a protection device to protect the other circuit parts from further damage. If you will put an other fuse, and switch it ON again, you are making things more worse than present. Find out the reason for buring out fuse. If you can do it by yourself. Otherwise get it repaired by any experienced service personal. Never make it irreparable. OK.
Simple answer: blown power supply - any one of a number of components within this area could be affected; IC regulators could be short-circuit or destroyed as a result of the surge, resistors could be open circuit, diodes could be short-circuit and electrolytic capacitors could also have leaked/burst open. Even the optocoupler could also be damaged, and if the supply uses transistors, these too could have suffered short-circuit or internal leakage.
It's easy to tell if a power supply has been severely damaged by a surge - there will be numerous scorch-marks on the board around some of the parts, some parts including resistors will be broken, some electrolytic capacitors may have exploded.
To put it simply, you're better off sending it to a repair shop - obtain a free quote if possible, then make a decision yourself afterwards as to whether or not you think it's worth going ahead and getting it fixed by them. Up to you.
Switchmode power supplies in any appliance are complicated beasts to work with, and quite often tend to develop weird behaviour. The cost of the repair depends largely on the extent of the damage caused by your power surge, and how many parts were affected by it.
Here are some DIY steps that may help you fixing the
1.Check the power cord - check the cord it might be opened
(no continuity).This is due to frequent bending,pulling.
2.Check the internal fuse - sometimes the fuse fail because
of the power surge, replacing with new one cure the problem. However if the
fuse blew again then this is an indication that you have a shorted parts on the
power supply. If no reaction and still the unit didn't power up then you have
an open parts on the power supply.
3.If the fuse is intact then you have a faulty in the power
supply or on the load.
The next steps should be done by an expert or qualified
technician because isolating the problem on the regulator section is technical and fatal.
But first check if the unit is under warranty then avail it
because the manufacturer will fix it for you for free or a little charge only.
The outlet that the unit plugs
into... Is it 'hot'? Plug in a known working Table
Lamp. If you have power, the problem is the unit.
Where the cord goes into the unit, locate the Power
Supply. Carefully check for any cracked, blackened,
or broken components. My educated guess is that
a small fuse blew, as did the Metal Oxide Varristor,
which is either a large blue or red disc shaped component
near the power transformer. If the fuse is blown black
inside the glass, this indicates a short, and would require
an Ohm Meter to locate it. If the fuse is blown so that
the element inside just melted open inside the glass,
this indicates an overloaded condition, and would require
that the fuse be replaced with a rating 1/4 amp greater
than the original fuse. Why? because most fuses are
under rated to insure that they will need service to keep
people like me from starving! Trust me on this one.
When mine acts up I turn it off, unplug the power in the back, and while holding in the power button up front, I plug it back in. When you ley go of the power button the light will first go green then shut off to red and you can turn it back on to test. It doesn't work for all bugs but it has worked for me in the past for a few glitches. I also have tried uplugging for a few days to get bugs and perhaps static out. A good cleaning with a dvd cleaning disk never hurt, and rubbing the unit down with a anti-static dryer sheet can sometimes alleviate static issues after a rest unplugged.
The exact same thing happened to mine several days ago. I opened mine up, noted that two of the capacitors on the power supply are a bit puffed up, and tested the power supply's 12V and 5V outputs. The 12 Volt output is fine, but the 5 Volt output is only putting out 2 Volts. In short, all of the capacitors on the power supply are made by the same company (Jenpo) and apparently these capacitors were made using the stolen but incomplete formula for manufacturing capacitors much more cheaply. That "capacitor scandal" has cost electronics manufacturers millions. In any event, this would explain why Walmart blew out these Cyberhome CH-DVD 300 players for such a cheap price. Obviously all of the capacitors on the power supply will eventually fail. I have already experienced similar capacitor related problems with a few computer motherboards and other electronics equipment which I bought in the early to mid 2000's. I am contacting Cyberhome to see if they will send me a replacement power supply to go in my CH-DVD 300.
I've had the same problem on my 1920. Not knowing exactly what I was doing I disconnected some of the smaller boards (inside the player) from the main board powering on/off in between. When disconnecting the board fitted with the 5.1-out channels the player started up fine. Even after i reconnecting the board the player behaves normal again.
This origional post has been up since June 2006. The answer(s) about the 1000mf capacitor are right on target and has helped people even up to today (Aug. 26, 2008). It worked for me and the following might help others.
First find the power supply board. It is the one with the power cord attached to one end (make sure you unplug all power first!). This power supply has about nine minature electrolytic capacitors in the output of the supply. There is a large electrolytic near the input (elecrtical cord). Disregard this one and go to the other end of the board. The 1000mf, 10volt component you are looking for is near the middle of the 9 or so capacitors on this end. It will probably be the largest in this group (because it has the highest electrolytic value of the group) and the board surface will have an I.D. number of C316 adjacent to it.
DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE CAPACITOR WILL HAVE ANY SIGN OF A BULDGE, DISCOLORATION, OR ANYTHING THAT WOULD IDENTIFY IT AS A FAILURE! In my case the replacement solved the problem but there was absolutely no signs on, or around the capacitor. After replacing it, I checked the old capacitor with a (ANALOG) multimeter. The test showed leakage across the capacitor. In other words it was still working but had a high resistance path through the capacitor. This is exactly what I expected because when I checked the output voltage of the supply to the other 2 boards, voltage was present but was reading about 1/2 of what it was supposed to. The markings on the front (output) edge of the board indicate a -24 volts between ground (pin 4) and pin 3. Mine was reading approximately -12 to -13 volts.
I hope this will help others. As a matter of interest, this is an electrolytic capacitor and you should notice that the component taken out is marked negative ( - ) near one lead. Be certain to install the new one with the negative lead in the same manner! Also, any replacement you might find with a higher voltage rating should be at least 16 volts but a 200 or 1000 volt rating will work fine. Although, the higher the rating, the larger it will physically be. You probably would not be able to physically install anything over 50volt rating. The 35volt rating seems to be very available and a very good choice. With regard to microfarad (mf) value, 1000mf are very common but a 1200mf to 1500mf in a power supply circuit will work fine. Do not use anything less than 1000mf. Hope this helps others. This is going to contiue for this Phillips product until they all die.