I was thinking of maybe adding a wide angle adapter, i was worried about attaching one to the front of the lens, that plastic hood adapter thing feels a little flimsy. anyone have any thoughts on this.
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Regarding a 3rd party lens it always have some problem. Manually pictures can be taken , if completely not supported. Check the video and find similarities. Like keep F- 22 IN LENS , ( or the highest FNumber ) .. turn on manual controls.. then shoot.. check if this helps and inform
I'm afraid this will not work.
The filter size from the Nikon is 67 mm. and your vivvitar had a 52 mm tread. The step down convertor from 67 to 52 will block to much to use the wide-angle convertor.
I think you still will see a wider part in the centre of the frame, but in the end, the vignetting that takes place, will leave you with only a part of the picture to use. What stays will be smaller than what you pick up with the lens in the 18 mm setting.
Just try what you see, when you just hold the vivitar in front of the lens and shoot a picture. Take care you don't scratch the front lens of your 18-135. put a cheap UV filter, when you want to test.
See you only have a circular picture with this test.
I have a 12-24 lens and only use it once a year, so if you don't have a special purpose for a wide angle, don't bother buying one.
The cap is a plastic disk, usually black or silver, that snaps on at the end of the lens to keep the lens clean. Some lenses have two caps, one for each end when not attached to the camera.
Some cameras don't use a "loose" cap; those cameras generally retract the lens into the camera body and "close" a door in front of the lens.
Many, if not most, camera users do not use a cap (my guess).
The wide angle lens is generally an "optional" lens that can be used for group or scenery pictures when you want to shoot a "wide" picture. A "normal" lens is generally around 50mm (plus / minus 5mm). A wide lens is anywhere from 17mm to 24mm (or so).
These screw on the front of the plastic lens adapter and adjust the focal length. On the side of the adapter lenses it will quote the ratio. My wide angle says 0.66x so just multiply the range of focal lengths by this figure and you will see that it adjusts the camera zoom accordingly - making the image wider and probably also increasing the depth of field (what is in focus). Similarly a 1.5 tele will inrease the range of focal lengths to make the lens "longer" eg higher magnification , useful for astro photography - shots of the moon and terrestrial long distance work but detracting from the depth of field, eg the range of distance over which objects are in focus will be reduced.
The wide angle will allow you to come in close and get WIDE objects fully in-frame- hence "wide angle", while the telephoto will give you better overall maginification of the image but will probably increase the MINIMUM focal length - eg you may not be able to focus on objects closer than >2m (instead of ~1).
The screw-on adapter lenses I found were cheap in a Jessops sale use a 52mm thread, while the S5500 provides a 55mm internal thread. I use an appropriate 55mm to 52mm step down ring adapter. There is slight vignetting (shading around the edge of an image) at certain combinations of zoom, but generally these are very useful accessories.
As these are adapter lenses on the front of an already powerful 10x zoom that must be optically compromised at the price of this camera, there maybe some colour fringeing around bright images. If you want a better solution you really need to get a DSLR. Overall a good solution for the price.
Hey matty reps, I found one wide angle lens attachment that should work for your camera and I have attached a link to it so you can see what you think. I have little experience with these types of lens attachments, and have heard they're not nearly as good as having a wide angle/fisheye lens that mounts directly to the camera. If you don't mind losing autofocus you can usually find very cheap manual focus lens that are very high quality lenses for sale at some local camera shops. I hope this helps! http://www.sakar.com/p-105.aspx?categoryid=142 Sincerely, Allan Go Ahead. Use Us.
The wide angle aspect of video lenses seems to have been overlooked (perhaps disregarded) by the camera makers.
Most rave on about how many times optical and digital ZOOM they have, forgetting entirely that the wide angle end is just as valuable.
A trip through the speccies of most new cameras reveal the widest setting to be around 40 degrees - the same as the unaided eye.
For those familiar with 35mm stills terminology, about a 50mm equivalent.
Yet there are soooooooo many things that can be done with a decent (or half decent) wide angle.
It would be fantastic if they could give us (in 35mm terms) something like a 28 to 200 which was a standard purchase, or as Canon did ten years ago, a 35 to 300mm zoom.
Until then, I guess we will just have to shop around for wide angle converters.
I use a Sony (made by Carl Zeiss) one for my Sony DV handicam. It cost about $120 and is worth its weight in gold. I use this more than the "normal" lens, and get some stunning results. The mount thread is 39mm, and gives me a 28mm equivalent.
When I was growing up with 35mm, I bought some fisheye converters, and they really were cheap and nasty.. proving that you gets what you pays for.
The only caveat with a W/A converter is to be very careful of stray light and dust on the lens, as the depth of field will go from the lens surface to infinity in sunlight, and any dirt will 'flare'.
Have a check of the various ads in the mag and manufacturer websites for the converters. Oh and treat them like they are made of eggshell, as the multi coating on the lenses is very delicate.
Wide converter can be attached by using the dedicated adaptor ring ZCA-300 and will provide equivalent to 26mm angle of view in 35mm film.
The closest subject distance:
Normal Recording mode: 70.5 cm (from CCD), 60 cm (from the front of wide converter)
Macro mode : 20.5 cm (from CCD), 10 cm (from the front of wide converter)
*1 Set the Lens acc. to Wide Converter. in the setup menu. (Optical zoom will be fixed at wide-angle end.)
*2 Built-in flash can be used when attaching a filter, but shadowing may occur at the bottom of the image. In this case, use of program flash 5600HS(D), 3600HS(D), 2500(D) (sold separately) is recommended.
*3 Filter with 52mm in diameter can be attached to the adapter ring.