Question about Jenn-Air Refrigerators
Really most folks have to keep their setting on their fridge on about a 6-7 or-8 setting with the amount of food that is kept in the fridge now.
YOU CAN KEEP AN EYE ON THE RELATIVE temp if you like by placing a fridge thermometer in the appliance. Optimal fresh food should be around 40-43 degrees F on average to keep things on the cooler side without freezing.
Hope this helps
Posted on Nov 27, 2008
I had this problem...my frige is gss20iejp and it was the defrost heater. Very easy to replace yourself if you're good with a screwdriver. Repair guy wanted 200 bucks. I fixed it myself for 40, but still had to pay the guy 30 bucks to come out. You have to remove everything from your freezer, shelves, etc...
Then take off the back panel.
Coils should be completely frosted up.
Defrost heater is at the bottom. It is metal. Should have 2 screws to remove and Conected by wires on either side, they pull out from the bottom, just tug them. Replace with new defrost heater...your problem will be solved.
If you have any more questions, email me email@example.com and I'll be glad to help you out. I know how frustrating it can be if you don't have the funds to pay the repair guy and know you can fix it yourself with just a little advice. :)
Posted on May 05, 2009
Hi: Is your freezer so full it's blocking the vents? If so unblock the vents. If not put your food in a cooler, frozen and fresh. Unplug your refrigerator. Take a hair dryer to the back of the freezer to melt frost accumulated behind the panel. I know it's supposed to be frost free. You have a problem with the defrost heater or the timer. The frost is blocking the vents. Most likely it is the later, but if you see no frost it could be the circulating fan. The location of these will be in your parts list. Kenmore still gives these with their products. If you don't have it go to sears.com and use parts direct. They will have a diagram. I hope this helps, Jeff By the way, If you are not handy just do the hair dryer thing and it will work for a weed or two until the frost plugs it up again.
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
I'll assume you don't have much food/items in the freezer section. Because you have the fridge set on the max cooling setting and the freezer set higher than the mid setting, it could be that you have frozen the cold air passage from the freezer to the fridge.
If you can, 1) remove all contents that would spoil; 2) turn off the fridge 3) open both doors and allow the fridge to manually thaw out completely (this will speed up the opening of the cold air exchange passage between the freezer and fridge, which is likely blocked and frozen solid. Have plenty of towels handy to soak up the water from the defrosting process,
After a FULL day of being left off and doors open to thaw out, check for any further thawing and dripping water inside, if present wait another 8 hours (you really want to get it thawed out the first time!) When that's done, reset BOTH temperature controls to the factory mid-point setting (5?) as marked on your control knobs.
The key to having a refridgerator run properly is to allow for it to run at the factory settings for at least 24 hours BEFORE you adjust the controls higher and/or lower for each section. Adjust it up or down in ONLY 1 setting increments so as to not cause ice build-up and freezing of the internal air exchange passages.
Also, as you've relegated this fridge as a garage "beer & backup" unit, make sure to keep the freezer as full as possible to make it run as efficiently as possible. You can freeze jugs of water and pack it with cheap thrift store bread to help it run correctly. An empty freezer has to work harder to keep just air at freezing temps. As such, it will pass much colder air into the fridge, and cause these types of freeze ups. By the way, turning up the temp controls only makes it worse and just results in a total "freeze up" inside the cabinet panels that you can't easily see or get at to rectify, hence the reason to shut it off and let it fully defrost.
When you're done, you should have your fridge back in action working like it should, but remember, don't rush temperature adjustments, even thou we all want those frosty beverages, it'll take a couple of days to achieve the desired "chill" you're likely used to getting when it was your primary fridge.
Hope this helps and Best Regards! Semper Fi!
Posted on Aug 03, 2009
There are several different things that could make your refrigerator not cool properly.
I have compiled a list of things that you should check out and how to check them ok
It's not cool If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running. First, answer these questions: Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it. Next, see if the compressor motor is running The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help. If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these: The compressor The Thermostat The overload, relay, or capacitor The defrost timer The condenser fan motor Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas: Evaporator coils Condenser Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
I will continue the rest of the post in a seperate post to allow for full detailed instructins
Posted on Apr 15, 2010
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