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Switch connections i have a replacement switch for the oven blower/oven light but do not know which of the following wires got to which connection.Please provide a diagram or these connections.

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I have a Jenn-air, and the switch for blower and light is on top, front. the switch has 4 connections on the bottom, and viewed from the bottom, the white wire goes at 12 o'clock, the red and brown wires are in the top left corner (paired with the white one) and the black wire is at 6 o'clock, and the blue (double wires) goes in the lower right corner (paired with the black one). If you have a continuity tester, the switch is a dpdt, and white is connected to red-brown (double wires) OR black is connected to blue-blue( double wire).


Hope this helps.

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

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Fan motor is slowing down and not keeping the desired temperature


The circuit diagram for the standard control model shows the blower has a two-speed motor, connected directly to the power line in "Cool" mode, or connected to the temperature control in "Cook" mode. When the blower slows down during cooking, switch it temporarily to "Cool" mode. If it goes to normal speed, the problem is with the mode switch contacts or the wiring terminals between the fan mode switch and the temperature control board, or the control board itself.

If the speed does not change, check the wiring terminals at the speed switch common terminal (I assume your problem occurs in both low and high speeds). If you find tarnished, loose, or burned terminals, clean, repair or replace as needed. (In extreme cases, a loose terminal will cause the wire to overheat, damaging the insulation, oxidizing the terminal and causing a high-resistance condition that will reduce the voltage available to the motor.) If the connections are all good, the motor bearings are probably getting sticky at high temperatures. Let the oven get hot enough for the blower to slow down, then shut it off and check the blower bearings while wearing oven mitts.

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1 Answer

Heater doesnt work


The first thing to check would be the most common which is the blower resistor. the resistor is located on heater box next to blower. if you locate the blower then wire to blower and then follow wires back and they will lead to resistor.
A good test to do to see if it is the resistor would be with a test light you will test for power at blower, make sure to turn key on and heat on with blower switch on, then with the test light check for power at the blower.
if it is a bad blower resistor then you will have power at one wire on the connector that connects to blower motor, that means there is no ground going to blower, that ground is controlled by resistor to control the speed settings.its is the switch itself or resistor but i would say resistor, if you had a power probe you could test switch but i will not confuse you with that.
Now if there is no power to one of the blower wires then a fuse is what you will need to replace,
and the last test to be sure it is the resistor would be to use a piece of wire , make sure you know which wire had power to it, as you will be sticking the other wire, so take your wire and stick into connector at blower and take the other end and touch a good ground, you may see a little spark, thats okay. the blower should run.

Dec 21, 2012 | 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix

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The front blowers in our 01 Chrysler Town and Country started only working on high for the longest time and then completely went out. The blowers in the back work fine. We replaced the resistor behind...


Hi, since you know where the resistor is, that is a good place to troubleshoot the system. The problem is probably the switch but may also be the motor. You will need a 12 volts test light to troubleshoot. You can get a test light for less than $10 if you don't have one.
First, pull the connector off the resistor and connect your test light clip to a good ground point (bare metal spot on the frame of the dash.
Verify the relay and fuse are good by turning the key and switch on and probing the dark blue wire at the resistor connector terminal. If there is no power there, the problem is the fuse or relay in the box under the hood.
If power is there, next check the switch by moving your test light clip to the terminal of the dark blue wire (key and switch still on, so you have battery voltage on the wire).
With the switch set to "1", probe the dark blue wire with the brown stripe. If there is no light the switch is probably bad. Check a few of the settings. For example, with the switch on "2", you should get a light by probing the dark blue wire with the orange stripe. On setting "5", you should get a light on the dark blue wire with a green stripe.
If the switch is working, the blower motor is probably bad.
If the switch is not working, check the ground connection to the switch.

  1. Pull the cup holder out, then remove the small plastic trim piece between the cup holder and the HVAC control panel/radio bezel.
  2. Loosen the 2 lower and 2 upper mounting screws, then remove the HVAC control panel/radio bezel.
  3. Disengage the wiring connectors from behind the HVAC control panel switches.

  4. with your test light clip still connected to the hot wire of the resistor connector, probe the terminal at the black wire with an orange stripe. If there is no light there, trace the wire and repair the connection to chassis ground.
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Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

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I have just replaced the fan for this oven as it had stopped spinning. However it appears not to be the fan that has broken as the new one behaves the same. One important obserbvation is that when you...


Strange one this. According to the wiring and circuit diagrams, the yellow wire from the fan should go to contact 4 on the main oven switch. The oven element is connected to the thermostat, which in turn is connected to contact 3 on the oven switch. When the oven is on the handbook says that contacts 1,3 and 4 are made, contact 1 being the oven lights. So if the lights come on and the fan turns, the switch is more or less working. The only other thing that overrides the oven element is the thermal cutout. If you still have the problem, let me know what the thermostat neon is doing in all of this. It will be interesting to see what this is doing. Also, if you want the handbook which includes the diagrams, post your email address and I will send you a pdf copy.

May 12, 2011 | Stoves 720EF Electric Double Oven

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My oven will not heat up. When I turn the oven on the lights indicate that the oven is on but it never heats up. The stove works fine.


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Aug 29, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

How to start oven in PROPANE STOVE


Print the following infore for future ref if you wish. How it works is simple tage a look at it in Motion
Component Test Procedure Results
Electronic
range control
F1−1 –Upper Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−2 –Lower Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−3 –Upper Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−4 –Lower Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−7 –Membrane switch is not responding ...................................
F3−1 –Upper sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
F3−2 –Lower sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check membrane switch for connection or damage.
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Engineering
Test Mode
Press BAKE pad.
Enter 100°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
This mode can also be entered by pressing the hidden pad
for 3 second located to the left of the lower oven light pad.
Used to view the actual oven temperature for both ovens at all
times, even when an oven function is active.
This mode will also display the current fault code for 5
seconds in the time digits.
Fault codes
accessed
through
Engineering
Test Mode
F0−0 –No fault .................................................................
F1−5 –Upper hardware failure within control ....................
F1−6 –Lower hardware failure within control.....................
F1−8 –Shorted key in membrane switch ..........................
F1−9 –Internal communication errors within control .........
F1−A –Upper latch switches ............................................
F1−B –Lower latch switches.............................................
F1−C –Upper door switch.................................................
F1−D –Lower door switch.................................................
F1−E –Sensor input not calibrated ...................................
F1−H –EEPROM error .....................................................
F1−L –Temp in ovens are the same for long period .........
F1−N –Internal voltage on control not working .................
F9−1 –Upper lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−2 –Upper unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−3 –Control does not see upper door lock....................
F9−4 –Lower lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−5 –Lower unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−6 – Control does not see lower door lock ...................
EE –Control cannot read E-PROM. Unit will shut down.
Default from factory
Replace control
Replace control
Check membrane connection
Replace control
Check latch wire harness
Check latch wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Disconnect power for 60 seconds. If EE reappears, replace ERC
Test Mode This mode must be activated within the first 5 minutes of
power up.
Press BROIL and CANCEL pad for approximately 3 seconds.
If oven temperature is greater than 400°F, the Test Mode
cannot be activated or will abort if active.
Press and hold individual pads for 4 seconds to activate.
Display will have dashes in all segments to indicate the mode is
active.
Upper Bake: Energizes upper bake element
Lower Bake: Energizes lower bake element
Upper Broil: Energizes upper broil element
Convection Bake: Energizes convection fan
Upper Oven Light: Energizes upper oven light
Lower Oven Light: Energizes lower oven light
Upper Clean: Energizes upper motorized door lock
Lower Clean: Energizes lower motorized door lock
Stop Time: Energizes Beeper
Cook Time: Displays error codes
Timer 1: Energizes ROM version
Timer 2: Energizes EEPROM version
Keep Warm: Cooling Fan
Clock: All display segments light
If functions do not perform as specified, replace ERC
Oven
temperature
adjustment
Push BAKE pad.
Enter 550°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
To decrease or increase oven temperature. Push AUTO SET
pad until negative or positive numbers appear. Oven can be
adjusted from -35° to +35° (-37.2° to + 1.6° C) in 5° F (2.7° C).
To avoid over adjusting oven move temperature -5° each time.
Push OVEN CANCEL button.

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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may i know the exact model # of your unit, and the part # of your switch control.

let me know, thanks.

micro

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just go through the manual it will have digrams of how to give connection .........

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