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Switch connections i have a replacement switch for the oven blower/oven light but do not know which of the following wires got to which connection.Please provide a diagram or these connections.

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I have a Jenn-air, and the switch for blower and light is on top, front. the switch has 4 connections on the bottom, and viewed from the bottom, the white wire goes at 12 o'clock, the red and brown wires are in the top left corner (paired with the white one) and the black wire is at 6 o'clock, and the blue (double wires) goes in the lower right corner (paired with the black one). If you have a continuity tester, the switch is a dpdt, and white is connected to red-brown (double wires) OR black is connected to blue-blue( double wire).


Hope this helps.

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

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Fan motor is slowing down and not keeping the desired temperature


The circuit diagram for the standard control model shows the blower has a two-speed motor, connected directly to the power line in "Cool" mode, or connected to the temperature control in "Cook" mode. When the blower slows down during cooking, switch it temporarily to "Cool" mode. If it goes to normal speed, the problem is with the mode switch contacts or the wiring terminals between the fan mode switch and the temperature control board, or the control board itself.

If the speed does not change, check the wiring terminals at the speed switch common terminal (I assume your problem occurs in both low and high speeds). If you find tarnished, loose, or burned terminals, clean, repair or replace as needed. (In extreme cases, a loose terminal will cause the wire to overheat, damaging the insulation, oxidizing the terminal and causing a high-resistance condition that will reduce the voltage available to the motor.) If the connections are all good, the motor bearings are probably getting sticky at high temperatures. Let the oven get hot enough for the blower to slow down, then shut it off and check the blower bearings while wearing oven mitts.

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Jenn-air range model S136C


just go through the manual it will have digrams of how to give connection .........

Aug 26, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

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Blower motor does not work?


Blower motor problems are a pretty common topic. This is a basic guide on how to diagnose the problem and will work for most vehicles.

The diagram is generic and loosely based on GM's setup and more specifically a Silverado. Most manufacturers have a similar setup and the only major differences would be a ground side control (instead of the switch supplying power to the resistor it would be grounding the power from the resistor if this is the case you test light would need to be connected to power to test the switch) and late model Chrysler minivans (they use a module that looks for a difference in a/c voltage from the switch)

If the blower works on high only than likely the resistor assembly is the culprit since power to the blower essentially bypasses all of the resistors and/or the resistor assembly entirely. The reason why none off the other speeds will work is that the resistor or the circuit for the speed four setting has burned out. The lower the setting the more resistance you need to drop the voltage to the blower. The first speed setting requires all four resistors to drop the voltage enough to turn the blower at its slowest speed. Speed 2 needs to turn the blower a little faster so it uses three resistors. Speed 3 uses two resistors and speed 4 uses one.

In some cases the fan will work on high and speed setting 4. The likely cause for this is the speed 3 resistor or circuit has burned out. Speed 4 still works because it doesn't use the lower speeds resistors to control the speed of the blower. If the speed 2 resistor burns out than speed 1 and 2 will not work but 3, 4 and high will continue to work. If the speed 1 resistor burns out than speeds 2, 3, 4, and high will continue to work.

This leads us to how do we know if its the resistor or the switch or the blower. If the blower works on high than we know the blower works. That leaves us with either the switch or the resistor assembly (there are many other possibilities) which can be easily tested with a test light (or a voltmeter if you choose) The first thing to do is locate the resistor assemble. They can be behind the glove box, under the dash close to the blower motor or under the hood, again usually close to the blower motor. It will typically have 5 to six wires going to it. We'll start by unplugging the connector, turning the key on and connecting your test light to ground.

1.Turn the switch to high and backprobe all the wires. Two of them should illuminate the test light. In the diagram below this would be wire E & F. If you don't have a diagram then hold the test light on one of the two wires and move the switch to another speed setting. the wire that continuously illuminates the test light regardless of the switch position will be the constant power for high blower speed and will not need to be rechecked in the following steps.

2. Turn the switch to the next lowest setting. Backprobe the remaining wires to see if one of them illuminates the test light. Repeat until you have checked all of the speed settings.

3. If the test light has illuminated a different wire for each setting then we can reasonably assume that the switch is functioning as intended and the source of the problem is the blower resistor.

If you find one or more settings (but not all the settings) on the switch that does not illuminate the test light on any wire than we can reasonably assume that the switch has failed.

There are a few other things that can cause blower motors not to work as intended. The switch or the resistor assembly are the two most common problems.

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on Oct 26, 2010 | Chevrolet Venture Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Heater doesnt work


The first thing to check would be the most common which is the blower resistor. the resistor is located on heater box next to blower. if you locate the blower then wire to blower and then follow wires back and they will lead to resistor.
A good test to do to see if it is the resistor would be with a test light you will test for power at blower, make sure to turn key on and heat on with blower switch on, then with the test light check for power at the blower.
if it is a bad blower resistor then you will have power at one wire on the connector that connects to blower motor, that means there is no ground going to blower, that ground is controlled by resistor to control the speed settings.its is the switch itself or resistor but i would say resistor, if you had a power probe you could test switch but i will not confuse you with that.
Now if there is no power to one of the blower wires then a fuse is what you will need to replace,
and the last test to be sure it is the resistor would be to use a piece of wire , make sure you know which wire had power to it, as you will be sticking the other wire, so take your wire and stick into connector at blower and take the other end and touch a good ground, you may see a little spark, thats okay. the blower should run.

Dec 21, 2012 | 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix

2 Answers

The front blowers in our 01 Chrysler Town and Country started only working on high for the longest time and then completely went out. The blowers in the back work fine. We replaced the resistor behind...


Hi, since you know where the resistor is, that is a good place to troubleshoot the system. The problem is probably the switch but may also be the motor. You will need a 12 volts test light to troubleshoot. You can get a test light for less than $10 if you don't have one.
First, pull the connector off the resistor and connect your test light clip to a good ground point (bare metal spot on the frame of the dash.
Verify the relay and fuse are good by turning the key and switch on and probing the dark blue wire at the resistor connector terminal. If there is no power there, the problem is the fuse or relay in the box under the hood.
If power is there, next check the switch by moving your test light clip to the terminal of the dark blue wire (key and switch still on, so you have battery voltage on the wire).
With the switch set to "1", probe the dark blue wire with the brown stripe. If there is no light the switch is probably bad. Check a few of the settings. For example, with the switch on "2", you should get a light by probing the dark blue wire with the orange stripe. On setting "5", you should get a light on the dark blue wire with a green stripe.
If the switch is working, the blower motor is probably bad.
If the switch is not working, check the ground connection to the switch.

  1. Pull the cup holder out, then remove the small plastic trim piece between the cup holder and the HVAC control panel/radio bezel.
  2. Loosen the 2 lower and 2 upper mounting screws, then remove the HVAC control panel/radio bezel.
  3. Disengage the wiring connectors from behind the HVAC control panel switches.

  4. with your test light clip still connected to the hot wire of the resistor connector, probe the terminal at the black wire with an orange stripe. If there is no light there, trace the wire and repair the connection to chassis ground.
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Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

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Aug 03, 2011 | 2004 Chrysler Town & Country

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I have just replaced the fan for this oven as it had stopped spinning. However it appears not to be the fan that has broken as the new one behaves the same. One important obserbvation is that when you...


Strange one this. According to the wiring and circuit diagrams, the yellow wire from the fan should go to contact 4 on the main oven switch. The oven element is connected to the thermostat, which in turn is connected to contact 3 on the oven switch. When the oven is on the handbook says that contacts 1,3 and 4 are made, contact 1 being the oven lights. So if the lights come on and the fan turns, the switch is more or less working. The only other thing that overrides the oven element is the thermal cutout. If you still have the problem, let me know what the thermostat neon is doing in all of this. It will be interesting to see what this is doing. Also, if you want the handbook which includes the diagrams, post your email address and I will send you a pdf copy.

May 12, 2011 | Stoves 720EF Electric Double Oven

1 Answer

My oven will not heat up. When I turn the oven on the lights indicate that the oven is on but it never heats up. The stove works fine.


check the back element to see if it is burnt out ...this is most likley the problem use a flash light to inspect ..to replace the element unplug range..remove racks remove the 2 screws holding the element.. in the back of oven..remove screws on the element to dissconnect the wires ../install new element ..take the back off the range to view all them wires an switches inspect all the wires an switches ..look for burnt wires or broken wires .P/S inspect all wires an connections if bake element looks fine ...good luck ,.let me know if you need more help../joe/

Aug 29, 2010 | Ovens

1 Answer

How to start oven in PROPANE STOVE


Print the following infore for future ref if you wish. How it works is simple tage a look at it in Motion
Component Test Procedure Results
Electronic
range control
F1−1 –Upper Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−2 –Lower Oven >650°F with door unlocked.............................
F1−3 –Upper Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−4 –Lower Oven >950°F with door locked.................................
F1−7 –Membrane switch is not responding ...................................
F3−1 –Upper sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
F3−2 –Lower sensor is shorted at (< 100 ω) or
open at (>5 K ω) ...............................................................
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 650°F check sensor.
Check actual upper oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check actual lower oven temperature,
if > 950°F check sensor.
Check membrane switch for connection or damage.
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Check upper sensor, harness, and connections
Engineering
Test Mode
Press BAKE pad.
Enter 100°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
This mode can also be entered by pressing the hidden pad
for 3 second located to the left of the lower oven light pad.
Used to view the actual oven temperature for both ovens at all
times, even when an oven function is active.
This mode will also display the current fault code for 5
seconds in the time digits.
Fault codes
accessed
through
Engineering
Test Mode
F0−0 –No fault .................................................................
F1−5 –Upper hardware failure within control ....................
F1−6 –Lower hardware failure within control.....................
F1−8 –Shorted key in membrane switch ..........................
F1−9 –Internal communication errors within control .........
F1−A –Upper latch switches ............................................
F1−B –Lower latch switches.............................................
F1−C –Upper door switch.................................................
F1−D –Lower door switch.................................................
F1−E –Sensor input not calibrated ...................................
F1−H –EEPROM error .....................................................
F1−L –Temp in ovens are the same for long period .........
F1−N –Internal voltage on control not working .................
F9−1 –Upper lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−2 –Upper unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−3 –Control does not see upper door lock....................
F9−4 –Lower lock switch is not correct.............................
F9−5 –Lower unlock switch is not correct.........................
F9−6 – Control does not see lower door lock ...................
EE –Control cannot read E-PROM. Unit will shut down.
Default from factory
Replace control
Replace control
Check membrane connection
Replace control
Check latch wire harness
Check latch wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Check lock wire harness
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Verify sensor is operating properly
Replace control
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Check lock wire harness, and lock switch
Disconnect power for 60 seconds. If EE reappears, replace ERC
Test Mode This mode must be activated within the first 5 minutes of
power up.
Press BROIL and CANCEL pad for approximately 3 seconds.
If oven temperature is greater than 400°F, the Test Mode
cannot be activated or will abort if active.
Press and hold individual pads for 4 seconds to activate.
Display will have dashes in all segments to indicate the mode is
active.
Upper Bake: Energizes upper bake element
Lower Bake: Energizes lower bake element
Upper Broil: Energizes upper broil element
Convection Bake: Energizes convection fan
Upper Oven Light: Energizes upper oven light
Lower Oven Light: Energizes lower oven light
Upper Clean: Energizes upper motorized door lock
Lower Clean: Energizes lower motorized door lock
Stop Time: Energizes Beeper
Cook Time: Displays error codes
Timer 1: Energizes ROM version
Timer 2: Energizes EEPROM version
Keep Warm: Cooling Fan
Clock: All display segments light
If functions do not perform as specified, replace ERC
Oven
temperature
adjustment
Push BAKE pad.
Enter 550°F using the number pads.
Immediately push and hold BAKE pad for appropriate oven
approximately 3 seconds.
To decrease or increase oven temperature. Push AUTO SET
pad until negative or positive numbers appear. Oven can be
adjusted from -35° to +35° (-37.2° to + 1.6° C) in 5° F (2.7° C).
To avoid over adjusting oven move temperature -5° each time.
Push OVEN CANCEL button.

Sep 04, 2009 | Frigidaire 30 in. Electric Gallery Series...

1 Answer

Everything seems to work but not heat


the switch is ok. if it was bad itt would blow the fuse. ge had magnetron problems on the 1600 series. if you have an amprobe and are getting 110 volts from the control to the transformer. place the probe around just 1 wire to the transformer. if you get less than 12 amps replace the mag

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1 Answer

WIRE CONNECTIONS


may i know the exact model # of your unit, and the part # of your switch control.

let me know, thanks.

micro

Aug 26, 2008 | Kitchen Ranges

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