Connections for a switch for the oven blower/oven light.there are four colored wires- double brown, double blue,double white,single blue.please provide a diagram for these four connections to the switch.
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'Newer Style' Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes
relay energized during time of day display
shorted or change power relay board (PRB)
The original fan switch for the SEG196 (circa 1995) is a four terminal switch- two for the fan and two for the light . Note that the switch spade lugs for the red and blue wires (which when connected activate the fan) are larger than those for the white and brown wires (which when connected activate the oven light). This design presumably prevented miswiring of the switch at original assembly. Since the four terminal switch is nearly impossible to find (it was discontinued several years ago), an inexpensive fix is to replace the four wire switch with a two wire SPST toggle switch. However, this means that either the fan function or the light function can be preserved- not both. I elected to keep the fan function, and simply wired the red & blue wires to the two terminals of a heavy duty replacement SPST toggle switch. Be sure to fully insulate the remaining (in this case) white and brown wires with electrical tape or wire nuts before tucking them below the new switch. Total cost: $6.00 for switch. NOTE: TURN OFF POWER TO RANGE AT ELECTRICAL PANEL BEFORE ATTEMPTING REPAIR!
I have a Jenn-air, and the switch for blower and light is on top, front. the switch has 4 connections on the bottom, and viewed from the bottom, the white wire goes at 12 o'clock, the red and brown wires are in the top left corner (paired with the white one) and the black wire is at 6 o'clock, and the blue (double wires) goes in the lower right corner (paired with the black one). If you have a continuity tester, the switch is a dpdt, and white is connected to red-brown (double wires) OR black is connected to blue-blue( double wire).
There is a capacitor on the clock board labelled C3. It will probably have brown burns on it or "syrup" leaking around the base. You can buy a box of 10 of these for 75 cents at Radio Shack (make sure you match the label on the old capacitor, I think it's 58mf and 35V but I could be wrong) and a pencil soldering iron for $10. It's held on with 2 little wires. Before taking it off note capacitor orientation (where the blue +++ stripe is), the replacement has to go on the same way. Common problem and easy fix.