Question about Maytag Dryers

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My Dryer won't heat

The intermittent ignition device comes on, but the gas does not ignite. As far as I know, there is no one in this area that services dryers. Can you help me out?

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I'm assuming you're talking about the igniter. The igniter in these dryers is a glow bar type. Over a period of use, the igniter can become weak with age and no longer produce the required current to open the gas valve. If the gas valve does not open, the result is a glowing igniter with no ignition. The following link provides some good info on glow bar igniters:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r401858-replacing_oven_igniter_gas_range

I know the link is for replacing an igniter in an oven, but the same type of igniter is used on gas dryers as well. I just wanted to give you information on the types of igniters and what current readings they should have.

Another common problem that affects ignition are the gas valve safety coils on the burner assembly going bad. There are usually two of them, and are usually sold as a set. It is recommended that you replace both of them at the same time. The symptoms I have seen more often when the coils go bad, is a dryer that will sometimes ignite and will not stay lit once it warms up. You may hear a rapid clicking or rattling noise associated with bad valves.

I hope this gives you some guidance. If you post back with a model number it would make it easier to determine how your dryer is configured, and assist in trying to locate any recommended parts.

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

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how-to-repair-a-dryer-2.jpg
©2006 Publications International, Ltd.
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These are the standard things to check out a gas Dryer that is not heating.
If you feel confident!
Trained people like myself make mistakes too but it usually happens when we get too friendly with what we are doing and become complaisant. It can really be bad if a non trained person is jumpy and doesn’t know safety about when or what is suppose to be happening first, second… Or how to arrive at what should be happening and it isn’t. But at this point if your jittery and don’t feel confident, stop and let someone trained handle the rest.

Key to all modern flame (fossil fuel) appliances is a need for ignition. The 2 most common ways to ignite the flame are:
1 Spark (where there is a spark generator that when directed to the area of the flam ignite the main burner or in some cases a pilot flame) and,
2 Direct ignitions, which most commonly uses a silicone or nitride igniter that glows brightly to ignite the flame.

Common to both of these ignition systems is:
Safety first: always a way to prove that the flame is there and burning.

Here after I will address mostly the Hot Surface Ignition (the orange or direct type of ignition), because the spark ignition type of units have been phased out.

Do you get a "glow" the glow (orange in color) is for the gas to be ignited.

No glow indicates the igniter either has a no voltage problem or the igniter is burned out.

No power should flow to the gas valve if you have no igniter. However, you may smell gas and have no igniter intermittently. This can be normal as some safety systems will allow the gas to flow to the igniter area for a few tries at ignition before locking the valve off.. To be safe always turn off the gas to the appliance, burner, or at the gas valve. I will assume you know how to do this if you don’t then let someone trained handle the rest.
If your ready to proceed:
Confirm power to the gas valve area 110V usually and keep in mind that the dryer has to be running at this point on most all dryers. There is little reason for the burner to come on if the dryer is not running, right?
If you have voltage to the gas valve area check the voltage at the ignition directly. Just to be sure your not in a lock out, mode remove power from the appliance for 2 to 3 minutes reapply power and restart and try the dryer (still with gas off). If no power still to the gas valve/igniter there the problem is somewhere other than the area your in. If you have voltage the problem is probably the igniter. The next step would be to check the voltage to the igniter terminals. Voltage there is almost a guarantee the igniter is out. Look for the way the ignition was installed originally and reverse the process getting the igniter in hand so you can be sure you get the correct one for replacement. It may come out in pieces just take all of them you can to keep the area clean. And vacuum opr blow out the rest with compressed air.



If you don't have 110 Volts the problem is in the controls. The electronic ignition safety board, fuse link, the timer contacts, the centrifugal switch on the motor, and the heater safety thermostat and operating (s), are all suspect and have to be eliminated 1 by 1. If you check all the controls and have power to the Ignition board where it is suppose to be with it running then it must be out. Other wise you will have to jump around each safety/control to verify which one is open. Also you may have top stop and restart the drier for each component test to keep from locking out the safety on the ignition board.

Clean the duct out while replacing the igniter if so because the main thing that causes igniter burn out is low air flow. A kinked Dryer vent hose, lint, and plugged up fan circulator on the motor, or if yours has little holes in the inside cabinet where the air is taken to be heated and recirculated, these can get clogged with lint also and cause a problem are the 4 main causes of low air flow..

Hope this helps. With any luck all you need is a new igniter
Thank you and good luck.

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1 Answer

I HAVE A GE GAS DRYER LESS THAN ONE YEAR OLD. IT TUMBLES, BUT WILL NOT HEAT UP. IT SEEMS TO TRY TO HEAT UP, BUT SHUTS DOWN IN ABOUT 30 SECONDS.


These are the standard things to check out a gas Dryer that is not heating.
If you feel confident!
Trained people like myself make mistakes too but it usually happens when we get too friendly with what we are doing and become complaisant. It can really be bad if a non trained person is jumpy and doesn’t know safety about when or what is suppose to be happening first, second… Or how to arrive at what should be happening and it isn’t. But at this point if your jittery and don’t feel confident, stop and let someone trained handle the rest.

Key to all modern flame (fossil fuel) appliances is a need for ignition. The 2 most common ways to ignite the flame are:
1 Spark (where there is a spark generator that when directed to the area of the flam ignite the main burner or in some cases a pilot flame) and,
2 Direct ignitions, which most commonly uses a silicone or nitride igniter that glows brightly to ignite the flame.

Common to both of these ignition systems is:
Safety first: always a way to prove that the flame is there and burning.

Here after I will address mostly the Hot Surface Ignition (the orange or direct type of ignition), because the spark ignition type of units have been phased out.

Do you get a "glow" the glow (orange in color) is for the gas to be ignited.

No glow indicates the igniter either has a no voltage problem or the igniter is burned out.

No power should flow to the gas valve if you have no igniter. However, you may smell gas and have no igniter intermittently. This can be normal as some safety systems will allow the gas to flow to the igniter area for a few tries at ignition before locking the valve off.. To be safe always turn off the gas to the appliance, burner, or at the gas valve. I will assume you know how to do this if you don’t then let someone trained handle the rest.
If your ready to proceed:
Confirm power to the gas valve area 110V usually and keep in mind that the dryer has to be running at this point on most all dryers. There is little reason for the burner to come on if the dryer is not running, right?
If you have voltage to the gas valve area check the voltage at the ignition directly. Just to be sure your not in a lock out, mode remove power from the appliance for 2 to 3 minutes reapply power and restart and try the dryer (still with gas off). If no power still to the gas valve/igniter there the problem is somewhere other than the area your in. If you have voltage the problem is probably the igniter. The next step would be to check the voltage to the igniter terminals. Voltage there is almost a guarantee the igniter is out. Look for the way the ignition was installed originally and reverse the process getting the igniter in hand so you can be sure you get the correct one for replacement. It may come out in pieces just take all of them you can to keep the area clean. And vacuum opr blow out the rest with compressed air.



If you don't have 110 Volts the problem is in the controls. The electronic ignition safety board, fuse link, the timer contacts, the centrifugal switch on the motor, and the heater safety thermostat and operating (s), are all suspect and have to be eliminated 1 by 1. If you check all the controls and have power to the Ignition board where it is suppose to be with it running then it must be out. Other wise you will have to jump around each safety/control to verify which one is open. Also you may have top stop and restart the drier for each component test to keep from locking out the safety on the ignition board.

Clean the duct out while replacing the igniter if so because the main thing that causes igniter burn out is low air flow. A kinked Dryer vent hose, lint, and plugged up fan circulator on the motor, or if yours has little holes in the inside cabinet where the air is taken to be heated and recirculated, these can get clogged with lint also and cause a problem are the 4 main causes of low air flow..

Hope this helps. With any luck all you need is a new igniter
Thank you and good luck.
Also you should check for a kink in the exit hose diminished air flow through the machine. And I assume you mean the heat shuts down and not the whole machine?

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