Question about Roper RGX4634KQ Gas Dryer

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Roper gas dryer not heating

My gas dryer first started taking more cycles to dry the load, but was still heating. Now I am getting no heat at all. Everything else is working fine. Still tumbles and shuts off after cycle. What do you think?

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  • JMD2219 Aug 26, 2008

    Thanks for your response, but that was the first thing I checked. I am in the service industry, just not for dryers. I was able to remove the the plastic cap on the front of the dryer, and I could not see the igniter lighting up. Not sure where to go from here.

  • David R. Johnson Jan 13, 2009

    Davidrj42, My roper gas dryer is not getting any heat. I have checked the vent and it does not seem to be clogged. Is there any other thing that I should check.

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DEAR FRIEND,
ngfam1 here for you!
I am happy to be of assistance!

CHECK THE LINT FILTER IS CLEAN AND CLEAN IT AFTER EVERY LOAD1
BUT IF THE VENT THAT LEADS OUTSIDE IS CLOGGED IT MAY CAUSE THIS .
IN THE OUTSIDE OF THE HOUSE THERE IS USUALLY A SCREEN AT THE VENT POINT THAT STOPS ANIMALS FROM ENTERING THIS VENT. GO LOOK AND CHECK THAT IT'S CLEAR AND FREE OF WADES OF LINT THAT MAY BE BLOCKING THE AIR OUT FLOW.
THIS WOULD STOP IT FORM DRYING AND GETTING HOT ENOUGH TO DO THE JOB! IF THERE IS A DOOR THAT FLAPS OPEN OUT SIDE AT THIS SAME LOCATION WHEN THE DRYER GOES ON, CHECK THAT IT IS HANGING LOOSELY AND NOT STUCK CLOSED!
OTHERWISE YOU WILL NEED SERVICE!

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Posted on Aug 26, 2008

  • Neil
    Neil Aug 26, 2008

    I think you should let the other guy fix it!!
    really!


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Kenmore Elite HE4 Gas Dryer Shuts off prematurely in the Auto Dry cycle and the Timed dry cycle


Gas Dryer no heat: or shuts down soon after heating CHECK:

Thermal Fuse
If the air flow in the dryer is restricted, the temperature in the heating chamber can get hot enough to blow the thermal fuse. If the fuse blows, it cuts power to the coils that control the gas valve. The fuse is usually mounted to the exhaust duct just inside the back panel. You can check its continuity with an ohmmeter. If, after disconnecting the fuse, you get any reading other than 0 when you touch the leads of the meter to its terminals, it has blown. There's no way to restore it -- you'll have to install a replacement.

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TEST with a multi meter: The igniter is an electric conductor that works like the element in an electric heater, glowing hot enough to ignite gas when you turn on the dryer. This conductor can burn out, and when it does, it may glow, but it won't get hot enough to ignite the gas. At times it may give a reading of continuity yet fail mechanically and not get hot enough to ignite flame though it gets hot and glows and even may show Ohms or continuity ( close circuit) ?
Occasionally, the Gas safety valve and the electric coils that control the gas valve are defective -- they can wear out when the dryer gets old. When this happens, the igniter glows, but gas never enters the heating chamber or does not stay consistant.
Performing a continuity test on either part will help you determine whether or not you need to replace it. But the coils should also be tested for amount of resistance as well as Ohms. As they may be showing ohms yet not putting out enough resistance to keep proper gas pressure flowing. Most coils should show at least 1300 ohms ( GIVE OR TAKE 150 OHMS). Anything significantly less Thus u get an ignition but then it soon goes back out. The flame does not stay lit.

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The motor that drives the tumbler also drives a fan that circulates air through the heating chamber and the tumbler and expels it through the vent. If the air can't circulate, perhaps because of lint blockage, the heating chamber overheats, which prompts the cycling thermostat to turn off the gas. The thermostat resets when the chamber cools, but the chamber heats up quickly and the thermostat again shuts off the gas. The result is that the temperature in the tumbler doesn't stay hot, and your clothes take longer to dry, if they get dry at all.

Warning
There's a big difference between a dryer that doesn't heat up at all and one that just doesn't get hot enough to dry your clothes. In the first instance, the problem is usually a defective part, and things should be back to normal after you replace it. In the second instance, the problem is caused by restricted air flow, and you need to clear the lint filter and vents and take steps to prevent lint build-up. If you don't, you'll use more energy for drying than you need and the dryer may continue to malfunction. Worse, you may have a dryer fire.

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