Question about Whirlpool 24 in. GU2500 XTP Built-in Dishwasher

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Whirlpool GU2500XTPb1 The repairman says I need a new pump/motor assembly (his cost is +$400). Is this something that can be done without removing the dishwasher from the cabinet? I'm fairly handy, can I do it myself?

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The sump and motor assembly can be replaced without taking the unit out of the cabinet and with some guidance, a handy person can do it themselves.

Posted on Mar 08, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Display shows oL - Top-load washer


That oL is overload. You need to remove some clothes. On this model the motor can sense to much weight in the washer. If it does it without any clothes in there check for something jammed between the tubs.

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Wont drain


check to see if anything is clogged inside the drain line, if not the pump motor assembly must be changes out, some had five yr warrantys check ur manual, usually cost for pump motors are 200-400 so it might be cost effective to buy new if u undo the drain liine and cant locate a clog or remove debri from inside,, u can try to remove stuff from the pumo if u can remove the components from inside middle.. hope this helps

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Having a problem with my washer. The tub doesn't


This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If the machine will drain but won't spin he problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

They are plastic and in time can wear and/or break.

See the following Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual for top load, direct driive washers and the section on how the transmission operates.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

It's a bit of a messy job but comparing the work to the cost of a service person and/or new transmission it is worth it.

It is definately something that you can do yourself.

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1 Answer

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Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} If it doesn't spin or pump, it could be that your pump is seized or something is stuck in it. The agitator is operated by a different motor. Turn OFF the power. Try to find your pump and disconnectt the two hoses to the pump, one from the drum the other that goes to the back. Be ready for a considerable amount of water to come gushing out, use a hose to direct to a floor drain. Check to see if something is stuck in the pump or the hoses, remove it. Check to be sure the impeller spins. If you found something restricting the flow or pump, remove it and re assemble. If the impeller won't spin easily, then you need a new pump.

Remove blockage in the pump. Re-assemble and test.

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Cadet 5' x 36'' Whirlpool white 2771.018W. Bath is filled, turn on, buzz for a few seconds stops and dosen't do any thing. After a few minutes buzz again as if it wants to turn on but nothing.


From the sound of it the pump has seized and the thermal breaker is tripping causing the off and on buzzing sound. The problem could be in the motor or the pump attached to the motor. The easiest way to check this is to pull the pump/motor assembly out and check the rotation of the impeller. The impeller should spin freely with no drag. Most pump/motor assembly have a screw slot in the back under a plug or just open in the middle of the back of the motor. In some cases this test can be done without removing the pump/motor assembly. If the motor and pump do not spin freely, puchase a new pump and motor as one unit..

Sep 06, 2009 | American Standard 2771.002.021 Cadet 5' x...

2 Answers

Washer Will Not Spin - Need to Replace Coupler?


Two Clips (about 6" long and held to the motor with 5/16" head screws) hold the motor and pump assembly in place. Another two hold the pump to the motor. To do this job you need not remove pump from motor.

This job is much more easily done if you remove the outer case from the machine. See Link below for service manual:

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

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1 Answer

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Remove the bottom panel under the machine and you will see the pump and motor and work it out,IWOULD HOWEVER LIKE TO STRESS THAT IF YOU DO NOT KNOW HOW TO DO THIS RATHER PAY A QUALIFIED TECHNITION TO DO IT AS IF YOU DO IT AND SOMETHING GOES WRONG IT COULD COST YOU MORE AND THE MANUFACTURER WARENTY NORMALLY IS VOID IF A UNQUALIFIED PERSON FITS ANY ELECTRICAL PART,so please to save yourself a possible fortune rather pay a speciallist then pay twice for what could be once.

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1 Answer

Maytag, Quiet Partner II. Top water wheel is not getting does not get sufficient water pressure. Without sufficiant water proessure the water wheel won't spin, without the spinning effect dishes on top...


Motor-Pump Drive assembly is defective.Hey while you have this machine apart pull the drain pump off and look for a jammed flap,it's rare but check it anyway.(to remove the drain pump just twist it and pull it off).For the non believer's out there ,this will be a learning experience.You will NOT resolve this "not clean dish" problem unless the Motor -Pump assembly is replaced with the one they now make that works. THIS to some repairman was called POWER DRIVE ASSEMBLY. Quick note: motor - pump does NOT include the drain pump.Think about that for awhile.Any way the drain pump will not be the problem,the Motor-Pump is!

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