Question about SE Electronics SE2200A Professional Microphone

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SE2200A "wind" noises during recording

Hi, I've been using a SE electronics 2200A condenser over the last year and have encountered a recurring problem when recording. Basically when recording vocals the mic will work fine for 1 - 5 hours and then a "wind" noise starts creeping in underneath the vocals, once it starts it eventually becomes so strong that we cannot record. I know "wind" isn't very descriptive but it's a horrible background noise that becomes so audible it ruins the recording. We have tried using over a dozen different working XLR-XLR mic leads and we're recording into a 'MOTU 828' sound card (even tried a DIGI 002 and encountered the same problem) which means it isn't a problem with the sound cards preamp. It's only with this microphone that we have this issue, usually by not using it for a few days it would give us a couple more days of recording. But now it's got to the point where within 2 minutes of being plugged in it makes this loud horrible "windy" background noise. Any ideas what this is? Or how it can be resolved? Any help would be much appreciated!

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Its very descriptive and is quite a common problem with less expensive condenser mics. It's due to dirt or contamination on the capsule insulator or front end circuitry of the electronics. SE should be able to fix it for not much money.

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

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I have an rode nt1-a microphone, roland quad capture interface, but when im gonna record or put the input level i hear wind, i turn down the input volume all the way down, i still see the input signal


The Rode NT1A mic is a condenser mic and therefore it REQUIRES that "phantom" power be supplied by the mixer or amplifier. You will get only electronic "noise" if the mic is not receiving this power. Look up Phantom power to understand it. Essentially DC power is sent up the mic cable between the signal lines and the shield of the cable and is used by the electronics in the mic to amplify the signal from the condenser element.

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I use a sE2200a and a BLUE icicle preamp for basic vocal recording. My problem is that the kind of work I do requires quite a bit of loud, sometimes even yelling recordings. But no matter what I do, I...


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Thanks for using FixYA

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My mic keeps getting this popping noise wen i record, i have a pop filter an it's not a wind noise it's a crackling sound


Is it a condenser mic? Either your mic is bad or you need to add a compresser to your signal path...

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It should be standard balanced XLR. The wiring is 1= ground/shield, 2=hot(+ve), 3=cold (-ve). Do not bridge any of the pins especially not 1 and 3 if you are using phantom power with this microphone. Let me know if this helps please.

Nov 19, 2009 | SE Electronics SE2200A Professional...

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Frequency settings on se2200a


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SE2200a, No input signal


If my comment helped you find this problem, could you respond to the fixya questionnaire accordingly?

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Apr 20, 2009 | SE Electronics SE2200A Professional...

2 Answers

SE2200a rapid signal drop off


I had the same problem with my Saffire: the phantom power voltage quickly drops when switched on, causing the mic to cut out. This problem is common in older Saffires, and is well known to Focusrite support (a modification in newer-production units solves the problem).

The problem is that a tiny 100 ohm surface-mount "chip" resistor in the phantom power circuit fails due to insufficient power-handling capability. (This is "R196" in the phantom circuit.)

The fix is to replace the "chip" resistor with a "normal" 1/2 watt metal-film resistor (with wire leads), mounted upright on the circuit board.

I replaced the resistor myself, following directions (and photos) sent to me by Focusrite Tech Support.

The procedure is somewhat fiddly (a Swiss watchmaker could probably do OK). If you've never soldered before, DON'T EVEN TRY THIS, and if you've never worked with surface-mount components, I would ask your electronics-hobbyist buddy to do it for you.

Here is the procedure sent to me by Focusrite:


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Dismantling the Unit

Remove the 7 screws on the rear panel.
Remove the 4 screws on the underside of the unit.
Lift away the metal cover.
Remove the 4 small black screws securing the MIDI In/Out sockets.
Remove the single screw securing the S/PDIF In/Out sockets.
Remove the two screws securing this PCB to the chassis.
Gently pull the PCB away from the rear panel and move it through 90 degrees towards the front panel.
Place the unit on its front and support the PCB with some suitable non-conductive item.

Modification Procedure

All the components mentioned are located in the same area on the same PCB (see photo).
It is best to remove the coil and capacitor (as shown in the second photo), as this gives easier access to the components.
Remove R196 and measure its resistance. If it does not measure 100 ohms, replace it.
Use a conventional type (100 ohms metal film, .5 or .6 watt) mounted upright as shown in the photo. Before fitting this resistor, check that the three zener diodes DZ11, DZ12 (22v) and DZ9 (3.3v) are OK and have not shorted out. (Diodes are 500mW, 5% tolerance)

Testing units for Phantom Power problems

Connect a condenser Mic or suitable dummy load* to Channel 1.
Engage +48 switch.
Measure the DC voltage between XLR pins 2 & 1 on Channel 2 Mic Input XLR.
Faulty units usually read around +28Vdc and the voltage gradually drops.
Good unts will measure +48Vdc +/- 0.7Vdc.

* Dummy Load for testing: Solder a 20,000 ohm resistor between pin 2 and pin 1 of a male XLR plug and another 20,000 ohm resistor between pin 3 and pin 1 of the same XLR plug.




Here are the photos:


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2a48ecf.jpg


d4628df.jpg



My Saffire has worked perfectly since I replaced the bad resistor.

Good Luck!

Ken

May 04, 2008 | SE Electronics SE2200A Professional...

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