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My ducted heater is not working. It fires up initially but when it comes time to run the fan it just goes into wait and stays like that. It is a braemar te430. Any ideas?

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Sounds like the limit or fa switch. To be sure which one, e- mail the manufacture for wiring diagram or specs. Thank-you-very-much!

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

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I have a Vulcan Ultra 21E ceiling ducted unit The LED flashing fault is no 8 which is a gas interruption. The unit fan runs, ignition starts full flame and gas flows for about 2 secs then shuts down The...


Just been thru a similar problem with my Climate Technologies Vulcan High Efficiency Ducted Gas heater which in this case is installed under the house. This heater is about 7 years old and I have previously (2 years back) refurbished the controller by replacing the main power supply electrolytic filter capacitors.

I also had a communication problem with the Touch pad Thermostat which in the end required replacing the entire touch pad as one of it's voltage regulators had gone intermittent (Touch pads are available on E-Bay). To operate the heater while the touch pad was out of commission I installed a manual switch between the heat contacts on the heater controller. Closing the switch causes the heater to permanently run if it has no thermostat. Once communication with the touch panel was restored we were able to try and find the intermittent heater fault.

Again I have been getting Fault Code 08 "Gas Interruption" however the heater was lighting OK and then going out after about a minute or so. In the end I found 2 distinct heater faults.

Fault 1 was the flame sensor where the weld between the wire and flame probe rod had broken but it was still touching. This meant it was sensing Flame OK and then later would go open with expansion as the temperature rose. I fixed this by replacing the Flame Probe with a new one sourced from Reece HVAC.

At this point I celebrated thinking it was fixed!

Fault 2 after the flame sensor issue was cleared the fault still persisted but slightly less often.
The heater was cycling 3 times to get going and then locking out, requiring a reset from the touch thermostat or heater controller board. Sometimes the heater would achieve a onging burn for a long period, and other times just locking out after 3 tries.

Careful observation of the flame, through the observation holes after it lit, showed correct flame sensing but as soon as the nominal 65C duct temperature was reached the combustion fan (modulates) throttles back too far and the flame goes out, the flame sensor switches off and gas valve is then closed. The pressure differential across the burner manafold controls the Gas flow rate so if the combustion fan goes too slow the flame goes out due to lack of gas.

On the control board there is a potentiometer marked "MIN GAS RATE" this needs to be tweaked clockwise until the burner remains lit when the nominal 60-65C duct temperature is reached. Don't turn it up too far or the heater may not throttle back enough and end up going out on overheat.

Once a stable flame is achieved when throttled, try the heater in the economy mode which uses a lower recirculating fan speed and check the flame still remains lit. My problem was most obvious in the Econ mode.

Hope this helps someone else - It took me over a year to solve this one. NeilP

Aug 21, 2011 | Air Conditioners

1 Answer

My heater will turn on but won;t stay on any ideas


The first idea I have is I have no idea what to tell you because I don't have any idea what kind of heater you are talking about. Gas, Electric, Permanent, Portable, like in a fire place, stand alone, hard wire, plugs into the wall, new, old, electronic, mechanical control? Is it sitting flat on the floor? Is the tip over switch maybe falling into a depression in the floor that you dont know about? Did the cat do it?

IF this is electric, and you turn it on and it is on for 5 minutes and goes off, I would suspect it goes off on safety because it is over heating. Is there a fan in the device? Is it running? Can it breath (nothing blocking the input or putput)? Second, I would wonder, had it possible reached the desired temperature and turned off as a result? Is there a thermostat? Have you turned it up or down?

So, my friend, those are my ideas.

I am glad you came to FixYa.com today ... thanks for your question. Please come again. When you come, please give us a little more information to work on. Worldwide, there are 10's of thousands of people who volunteer their time to help folks solve problems.

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I have a central air and heat heat uses gas so when the heat is on should the main fan be turning


Typical systems are designed with a thermostatic "fan limit switch" which protrudes into the heater (house air portion of the passages). The "fan limit switch" is mounted to, and protrudes into the duct within the burner section of the heater.

This switch triggers to fan to turn on only after the air in the duct has reached well above ambient temperature. This prevents the fan from coming on too soon and the system blowing cold air, which people don't like.

Depending on system design, installation and current operating conditions, the time delay from main burners on to fan on can be up to a couple of minutes.

This same limit switch, if the temperature goes high enough, will also turn the gas valve off; a fire safety function.

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1 Answer

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Please provide more info. When it goes off does it come back on by itself or do you have to flip a breaker? Is the furnace gas or electric? If it is not moving enough air across your heat exchanger in a gas furnace or across electric heating elements this will trip a safety switch that will stop heating but not fan. Low air speed is most likely from inexperienced or improper duct design/ installation. Duct sizing is very important to move enough air. Don't believe me try breathing thru a straw. If your unit is a gas furnace it has a flashing code that will tell you what is wrong codes listed inside unit door. Could be lots of things. Reply with more info.

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Blower fan will not come on when set on Auto in heat mode.


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