Question about Whirlpool Microwave Ovens

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WHen operating my Whirlpool 1150 OTR microwave light clicks on and off, sometimes when I open the door the light does not go on. Often a clicking sound is heard when the light goes on and off and I am wondering if the magnetron is defective or causing the problems. Any ideas?

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  • Whirlpool Master
  • 8,820 Answers

It sounds like a bad connection on or near the cavity light relay on the control circuit board.

It is the inside / cavity light, right?

And your model is MH1150, right?

We regularly repair these for customers nationwide with our guaranteed $39.95 service.

Feel free to contact me directly for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
prototech@usa.net
http://www.microwavedisplay.com

Posted on Sep 02, 2008

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Is it an over-the-range (OTR) microwave or a countertop microwave? If it's an OTR microwave, are you talking about the light(s) on the bottom of the microwave, or the one that lights up the cavity when you open the door or run the microwave?
If it's an OTR microwave, and the cavity light is burned out, you MAY be able to access it by removing the grill vent by removing the 2 to 4 screws above it. Then, depending on the model, either slide the grill vent to the left and pull it out, or else pull out the top part of it first. Then, if there is one, you may see an access cover behind the grill vent. Unplug the microwave, then remove the 2 screw that holds the access cover in place, and lift up and remove the cover. You should now be able to get to the light bulb.
If it's a counter-top microwave, you will have to remove the complete cover by removing the screws on the back, and possibly a couple of the sides. Note, 2 screws are special security screws to prevent the casual customer from fixing his own microwave oven! UNPLUG THE MICROWAVE FIRST, then remove the cover screws. Slide the cover back about 1/2 inch, and then it should come completely off. You should now be able to see the light bulb to change it. Then reverse the process to put the cover back on. I hope this helps.

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1 Answer

Won't operate


see this steps and fix it. God bless you
No Lights or Power, Unit seems Dead First check is the main fuse of the unit. On countertop units, you will need to take the shell off. The fuse will be close to where the cord comes through into the unit. OTR units, this main fuse is usually behind the control panel or possibly behind the vent. Usually the fuse is obvious if blown, otherwise test with an OHM meter, if open, replace fuse.
Some brands will also have a thermal cut-off fuse in the incoming voltage line to the control board. Older Maytags and Samsungs have this fuse in it. This thermostat looking fuse is usually above the oven cavity somewhere under the outside shell. Sometimes you can get to it through the vent of OTR models. Test with an OHM meter, replace if open.

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1 Answer

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see this causes and fix it. God bless you
No Lights or Power, Unit seems Dead First check is the main fuse of the unit. On countertop units, you will need to take the shell off. The fuse will be close to where the cord comes through into the unit. OTR units, this main fuse is usually behind the control panel or possibly behind the vent. Usually the fuse is obvious if blown, otherwise test with an OHM meter, if open, replace fuse.
Some brands will also have a thermal cut-off fuse in the incoming voltage line to the control board. Older Maytags and Samsungs have this fuse in it. This thermostat looking fuse is usually above the oven cavity somewhere under the outside shell. Sometimes you can get to it through the vent of OTR models. Test with an OHM meter, replace if open.
Test the switchs door see diagram


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1 Answer

My M4155sp stopped working. No power at all (yes, I checked the power source). Replaced the fuse behind the keypad, - still nothing. Any suggestions?


please see the next step: God bless you
No Lights or Power, Unit seems Dead First check is the main fuse of the unit. On countertop units, you will need to take the shell off. The fuse will be close to where the cord comes through into the unit. OTR units, this main fuse is usually behind the control panel or possibly behind the vent. Usually the fuse is obvious if blown, otherwise test with an OHM meter, if open, replace fuse.
Some brands will also have a thermal cut-off fuse in the incoming voltage line to the control board. Older Maytags and Samsungs have this fuse in it. This thermostat looking fuse is usually above the oven cavity somewhere under the outside shell. Sometimes you can get to it through the vent of OTR models. Test with an OHM meter, replace if open.
see the diagram attached.
7_27_2012_3_49_52_pm.jpg7_27_2012_3_50_23_pm.gif

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2 Answers

Ran on power for 10 minutes, thought it was on timer.


First, check the fuse usually located above the display, inside the top lid.  You can't see if it's blown, so you must test it for continuity with a meter or self powered test light.  Usually fifteen amp, and of the ceramic variety.  (available at radio shack type places) If the new one blows instantly, it's likely a door switch shorted out.  If it blows after a few seconds, it could be the magnetron gone bad, or internal arcing.  The main transformer will sometimes short out, but that's rare.   Be absolutely careful, should your fingers venture around the magnatron connections down below, as there is high voltage and current that can kill you.  This warning applies even when it's unplugged!
The door switches operate together, so if one slams the door shut it will often blow the fuse with no other damage.  Sometimes the crow-bar switch will sustain damage in the process.  Usually, if the switches click individually, they're good.  If one doesn't click, it'll almost always be shorted.  They're located behind the door catch, inside the unit beside the display board, and a bit hard to access.  You will need to reach past the magnatron for this, so be careful.  

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HI, this is a faulty control panel. replace asap if possible.

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This is because of the broken latch. There are switches inside the oven that are operated by the door latches to make sure you're not trying to use the oven with the door open. With the new door, your oven should be back to normal.

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1 Answer

Whirlpool OTR microwave no oven 'fan'


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1 Answer

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I would suspect you have a bad door switch or door switch mount.

This is usually caused by either a bad door switch, a loose door switch mount, or a problem on the control panel.

Even though a door switch clicks, it may still be bad inside.

This can be caused by slamming the door or by habitually opening the door while it's cooking without hitting the Stop pad first.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical information on safety, disassembly and door switches at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa: http://tinyurl.com/yzjozk

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here: http://tinyurl.com/gv383

If you think the problem is on the control panel, which we repair these nationwide for $39.95 postpaid.

Please write back with your model number if you need further help.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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