When I shift it's not smooth but the chain seems to jump all over , same thing happens when I put extra pressure on pedals

when shifting gears on bikes you have to keep pedalling but with out load on the chain
shift one gear at a time as multiple gear selections may cause chain jump
do not pedal backwards as the selector is for forward motion only

I also would check if the chain is not worn out. When the lenght increases the chain links, these also can make the chain jump. Put the bike up and rotate the peddles, while shifting gears and watch if the d?railleur moves fast enoug. Perhaps even the jumping is over, because the links are not pulled out.
for chain wear, check out this wiki. Bicycle chain Wikipedia the free encyclopedia

There is typically not a single cause or solution to a specific shifting problem. The most common way to resolve your problem is to let off a bit on pedal pressure as you shift. The derailleur has to move the chain sideways off the teeth, and that is more difficult when the chain is under high pressure.

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the saber zike is a elliptical bicycle. All answers above think you have a motorcycle or they have no clue. Is the chain on the sprocket, It seems to be off the gear. Zike recomends switching 1 gear at a time. Do not go from 7th to first gear in one shift or chain will come off the gear .It happened to me .Chain id not easy to put back on as a bike, that you can turn upside down and have it support itself on the seat and handlebars. The saber you must hold the back wheel off the ground and try somehow to turn the peddle backwards. I am not sure how to make an elliptical chain go backwards like a bike does without resistance.

It jump because the clutch disc itself is good, but the clutch is not engaging-the pedal is not making the clutch engage. When it does, then you can shift without grinding, then you can shift period. Clutch pedal operates a cable or it operates a hydraulic system-they both, which ever one you have, move the clutch fork on the transmission bell housing just a bit to cause the clutch to disengage the transmission from the engine's flywheel...so you can shift, see, easy, smooth shifts, no problem, no grinding. Your clutch itself is okay, the pedal is just not operating it.

Hello,

Have a helper lift the rear wheel of the bicycle slightly off the ground.

2
Kneel beside the bike and turn the pedals slowly by hand. Using the shift lever, adjust the front derailleur so that it rests at about the midpoint of its movement range.

3
If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the largest rear gear, locate the two small side-by-side adjustment screws on the rear derailleur. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn with a small Phillips screwdriver. If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, skip to step 6.

4
Continue turning the pedals and shift through all the rear gears. If the chain will still not go onto the largest rear gear, shift the chain back down to the smallest rear gear. Turn the right (or lower) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle.

5
Shift through the gears again to test. If necessary, turn the left (or upper) screw counterclockwise another quarter turn.

6
If the initial problem is that the chain won't shift onto the smallest rear gear, begin by turning the right (or lower) adjustment screw counterclockwise a quarter turn. Shift through the gears to test.

7
If the chain still won't go onto the smallest rear gear, shift the chain to the largest rear gear. Turn the left (or upper) adjustment screw clockwise as far as possible before the chain begins to click or rattle. Shift through all the gears to test.

8
Follow steps 1 through 7 for the front derailleur, which operates on exactly the same mechanism as the rear derailleur (you still lift the rear wheel in step 1). There are two side-by-side adjusting screws that control alignment.
If otherwise,
Tighten the high gear screw, the one that hits a cam when you shift to the smallest sprocket, until you can no longer shift into high gear. Put the shifter in high gear position and while turning the pedals, unscrew the high gear screw until the system engages high gear again. Shift between high gear and the second smallest several times, backing the screw out a little more, just until the derailleur shifts smoothly.

2. Tighten the low gear screw until you no longer get first gear. Repeat the process for this low gear limit - back the screw out just until the bike shifts smoothly from the second largest to the largest sprocket.

3. If you cannot engage high or low gear, or if the above technique does not work for high or low gear, the cable may be improperly adjusted.
Shift into high gear and push the shifter all the way to the end of its travel. Loosen the cable inner wire anchor bolt. That's the bolt with a hole through which the derailleur control wire is clamped. Pull the slack out of the wire, and retighten the anchor bolt.

If your bike has index shifting, you'll find an adjusting barrel either at the derailleur or the shifter. The adjusting barrel is a hollow screw at which the cable outer housing stops, but which the inner wire continues through. Fine adjust the cable tension by turning the adjusting barrel until the clicks on the shifter correspond with proper shifting at the derailleur.

If your bicycle does not engage high gear, or is slow to engage high gear, even though properly adjusted, the cable is probably the culprit. Replace the sticky or rusted cable, and the problem will usually go away.

If you have done everything right, but the bicycle does not shift reliably, the most common reason is that the chain and freewheel are too worn to work properly. If you replace one, you must replace both. A new chain on an old freewheel or visa versa usually skips, and the new part wears out very quickly.

Another possibility is a bent derailleur. The guide pulleys, those little wheels that take up the chain slack, must pivot on the same plane as the freewheel sprockets. Derailleurs become bent when the bike falls over on the right-hand side. Whenever you set a bicycle down, or put it in a car, set it on its left side to protect the derailleur. You can sometimes straighten out a bent derailleur by simply bending it back and readjusting the limit screws.


Hoping this will help to solve the problem, do take care....

I would lube everything and check the derailleur adjustments and cable tension. Some Campy chains are 'notchy/clunky' all the time. It's just the way they are. If the bike is low mileage most likely nothing major is wrong. Check the derailleur hanger too just in case you dropped the bike and bent it or something. The shifter 'G' springs will wear out before the derailleur. When the springs are worn, the shifts will be imprecise and will jump from gear to gear without shifting. One thing with Campy stuff...it DOES take awhile to break in. Unless the shifting is horribly off, I wouldn't worry about it - just ride it more - and see what happens. Mirage is a good product, I think inline with Shimano 105 stuff.

It may help to have some simple advice about how to shift. You can only shift while the chain is moving. And the chain is only moving when you are pedaling. If you move the levers while the chain is not moving, it is no big deal unless you are very forceful with the shift lever. The bike will simply try to shift once you start pedaling. However, in all cases when shifting it is best to be pedaling very lightly. You want the chain to be moving, but you don't want to be pedaling hard and therefor pulling hard on the chain - that makes shifting very rough and you can hurt yourself. So, you want to shift to a lower gear as you approach an uphill, not while you are already pedaling hard trying to climb it. On the other hand, shifting to higher gears is usually pretty easy since you can always pedal lightly as you are moving fast.

One more thing. If this bike has it's original freewheel (that's the gear cluster on the back wheel) it is likely to be of the old style simple tooth design. These old freewheels are harder to shift than the new ones (basically they are more difficult to shift under pedal pressure than the new ones.) The newer (since around the mid 80's) freewheels have twisted teeth and little indentations in the face of each gear making it a whole lot easier for the chain to climb onto the next larger (lower) gear. If you have the old style freewheel you will be amazed at how much better the new ones work. If you do replace it, replace the chain too.
Good luck I hope you found this helpful Al K

Bicycles have two sets of gears (front and back). The 6 position control slides the chain between the 6 sprockets (cogs) on the back. The 3 gears are for the front set of cogs. Between the two sets of sprockets, you get 18 (theoretical) different rates of chain movement per turn of the pedals. In fact some of the settings overlap. (However some of these should not be used. Do not use the settings that pull the chain to the furthest inside of one derailleur and the furthest outside of the other. This diagonal between the biggest and biggest sprockets (or smallest to smallest) puts extra strain on the chain.) The back derailleur is in the lowest gear when on the biggest sprocker. The front low gear is on the smallest cog. The highest gear possible is on the smallest rear cog and the largest front cog.

By planning the shifts in gears, you can maintain the same speed and cadence (rate of pedalling) on different terrains. (For going up a hill, use a lower gear than on flat terrain. However don't go to low or the bike may not balance well.) To shift through a large range of gears, you must be pedalling and then move the rear derailleur control followed by the front derailleur then the back again. (For faster shifts to a low speed, you can shift the front derailleur first but that can stress the system.)

For a guide to using the gears: http://www.southcoastbikes.co.uk/articles.asp?article=Gears .

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

It sounds as though the chain is too tight. Check to see when it is "freewheeled" if the chain gets tighter. Generally this will happen because the chain ring (front sprocket) was not perfectly aligned with the "spider" (thing it bolts to). You can loosen the chain a little and see if this helps. Be careful because you don't want it so loose the it comes off while riding. What I usually do is adjust the tension of the chain with the sprocket in the tight spot. Kind of tight but without the "grinding" feeling.
Good luck.