Question about Toshiba 50HP95 50 in. Plasma Television

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Red Blinking Light

When I turn on TV it will last about 20 min. before it shuts off and power button red light starts to blink in no rhythm. After unplugging the TV from power outlet and letting it sit for 30 min. it'll turn on but shut off again. I have removed the back panel and notice that the TV has 2 boards each with a green LED light and long heatsinks. The location of these boards are all the way to the left and right side of the tv and the heatsinks get really really HOT. Right before the tv shuts down I can see these green LED lights start to fade off and on till tv shuts off.

Thanks to all those that can help..

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These types of problems are allways hard to diagnose.. If you were to power on the set and preform tests, you would think that everything was fine until the moment it shuts off.

Look on the main power board and see if you cant find the thyristor (thermal switch), those are the things that when heated will cause the set to power off for safety reasons.. They are normally placed where ever a large heatsink is. That may give you a location as to the problem and you can put a meter around its 2 pins with the set off and unplugged a couple of min after failure, if its short (0 ohms) thats not the problem, if its open, it triggered the event.

Second, you can run the set for a while and check the voltages and Ve, Va, VCC, Vsetup etc and compair to the markings on the plasma PDP sticker. If you see one is falling down over time (volts will be lost as heat) then you can isolate that portion of the supply.

Third and allways the best way to go about these problems is buy a thermal gun and moniter various spots for heat.

Its just vary hard to say, resistance could be off somewhere, diodes could be overheating as well as fets and caps. Thats why a good thermal gun can point you to exactly where the problem is.

Hope this info helps, but I would suspect the problem is on the main power supply itself and not the y sus and z sus boards side boards.

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

  • Greg Steilen Sep 02, 2008

    Just so you know, everything after the bridge is now DC volts, so everything you test will be in DC volts.. But after the set shut off and you tested the thyristor and confrimed they were open, then the main supply is getting too hot and now you have to find out why... Those main fets where the thyristors are drive the entire power supply and there are multiple little supplies in there.. So next I would suggest isolating the culpret, test all those volts (DC) with the set on, VE, VCC, VA and etc, the power supply and panal should be labled as to what they run at, you will see a drastic walk down in volts on what ever one is causing the problem. (and the volts on the panal and power supply are for reference only and not to be mistaken as exact volts) but if your 20v's under, and dropping, that will be the cause, the others should be able to maintain.. Its just hard to really diagnose where the problem is as switching supplies are a pain! Could be one of the other flyback reg/fets, could be a bad cap getting too hot, or even a diode, just impossible for me to tell without seeing it first hand and running the set.



    You said it looks like the supply had been possibly replaced, did you get this set used and have the problem at the same time.. If so the volts might not be setup correctly for the panal and may need to be backed down.

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