Question about DeLonghi DCU72 Coffee Maker

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Delonghi DCU72 refused to heat on 6th use.

Refused to heat at all on 6th attempted use. Heating element measured normal resistance for 1000 watt rating, no obvious overheating failures on circuit board. No voltage measured downstream of circuit board. Is there any typical failure of an element on the board or ? that I should look for or try to fix? The unit was never submersed or abused, looks like new inside, outside and underside.

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  • deerken Feb 06, 2009

    Identical problem on same model. Failed after 4 uses. Power light burns, but element does not get hot.

  • dhank Feb 17, 2009

    At least you made it work, non automatic, let us know what you find out about fixing the board, what failed, what replacement works.


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I have the same problem.
Being an electrical engineer, I would like to debug the circuit card.
However, I would like to brew coffee also.
I disassembled the bottom of the coffee maker, and unscrewed
the bracket holding the circuit card.
I cut the input power and ground wires from the plug to the card, and detached its modular wire to the heating element.
I removed the card
(to take to lab for further debugging).
Then I bought some .25 inch modular tab connectors at the hardware store and attached one to the power wire formerly going to the circuit card. I attached this to the heating element.
I covered the spare ground wire with electric tape.
Now I have a coffee maker which brews coffee again (except that I must pull the plug to shut it off).
If I figure out what is wrong with the circuit card, I will update you.

Posted on Feb 08, 2009

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Delonghi DCU72 not working


The light coming on is significant, it tells us that power is getting inside. If all else appears normal and it is only the heating function that is not present, it may therefore be:
  • thermal fuse;
  • heating element;
  • doubtful if the thermostat is defective but may be worth checking.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

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if you have an ohmmeter, disconnect the cables that feed the resistance and connects the ends of the meter should give a value of element 5 to 30 ohm, if you give infinite that is very high due replacement it, there are also two thermostats one limit and a control, if you use this meter their connections resistance removing the cables connecting them, the measurement should be 0, if it gives you another value or infinite must change.

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Stopped working, no smell or anything just stopped working, replaced fuse, what is problem?

First, make sure heater is plugged into a working outlet on at least a 15-amp circuit. To test the outlet, plug a known-working lamp into it and see if you can turn it on.

Then, turn on both switches and turn up themostat (clockwise, as i recall) until you hear a faint click. If it starts working, then you just didn't have it set high enough. If it doesn't work, problem could be bad switches, bad thermostat, bad power cord and/or plug, and/or bad heating element.

Troubleshooting down to the individual component requires use of voltmeter or ohmmeter, and MUST BE DONE WITH THE UNIT UNPLUGGED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
First, FOLLOW ALL SAFETY RULES AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND COMMON SENSE when working on this unit. If you are in doubt or don't know what these rules and safety precautions are, DO NOT OPEN OR ATTEMPT TO REPAIR THIS UNIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

To test each of the above components safely, first UNPLUG THE UNIT FROM THE OUTLET. Then, WITH THE HEATER UNPLUGGED, open up the heater and, with a DVM or other ohmmeter, measure the resistance across each switch, across the thermostat (with contacts closed), and across the heating element. Ohmmeter should read as 0 ohms across switch & thermostat contacts. Resistance of heating element should read less than about 25 ohms. Resistance of each conductor of power cord should read less than about 1 ohm. Replace defective parts ONLY with replacement parts purchased from the manufacturer, and install them and re-assemble the unit per manufacturer's original design and instructions. When finished, verify that there are no short circuits from the power cord to the heater frame, by unplugging the unit, turning on all switches and turning up the thermostat to maximum, and measuring the resistance from both prongs of the power cord touched together to one probe of the ohmmeter, to the frame of the heater. Set the ohmmeter on its highest-resistance range. You should not measure ANY continuity at all, which means resistance should measure infinity. If you measure anything less than infinity, do not use the heater. If you do not understand ALL OF the forgoing instructions or cannot carry out all of them, DO NOT ATTEMPT REPAIR OF THE HEATER!!! Again, SAFETY FIRST!!!! DON"T TAKE CHANCES! THIS UNIT CARRIES LETHAL VOLTAGES INSIDE. IF YOU'RE NOT ABSOLUTELY SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING, DON'T OPEN OR ATTEMPT TO REPAIR THIS UNIT!!!!!! Stay Safe!!!! Stay alive!!!!

And, make sure you unplug this unit when not in use or away from home!
Good luck, and STAY SAFE!!!!

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Some checks are surely possible but PLEASE make sure that the 220VAC is absolutely shut down.
In a home we built in 1977, circuit breakers were improperly marked and I, with decades of experience, believed I had turned off the power to our water heater only to find that it was still 'hot' and blew away a screwdriver tip before thinking to check across terminals to see if the voltage was in fact OFF.
You may have the same problem I had twice over ~30 years; that the lower heating element is open/failed. These typically will gather a coating of mineral deposits and eventually be unable to transfer their heat to water fast enough to avoid overheating and failing.
The limited hot water comes from the fact that the thermostat is checking for temperature at the exit point of the heater; the top. The thermostat turns on both elements but with only the top one still working it heats 10-15% of the tank capacity and then shuts off.
With your meter set to the lowest Ohms scale (typically 200 Ohms), measure across the element terminals. You should measure pretty much a short since the elements have an extremely low resistance; on the order of 10-20 ohms, if you measure anything that goes 'off-scale' on the 200 ohm range (normally blinking), the element is shot.
Don't forget to drain the tank before pulling out the element!      
If you are in the US, near any city, check your white pages for: Johnstone Supply or check their website to see if one is near you.You will pay 1/3-1/2 hardware store prices for the replacement element - buy two, store the second one. They are 'wholesale' to the trade but have never been refused.
If you don't feel like wading through their extensive website, you can take the element with you and they can give you what you need.

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